Water changes/auto drip

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It sounds more complicated than it is... my drip systems are fairly cheap, plugg and play, and easy to install. Sure, theres more than one way to skin a cat...and theres also always room for improvement with any system imo. I started with a $12 "ice maker" kit from home depot and went from there. I had plenty help from fish friends on here also. Couldnt have done it without them. Basically i use "saddle valves" from the ice maker kits and 1/4" poly tubing to get my clean water from my houses copper lines. After that i use an assortment of push connect or barbed fittings into drip emitters to make certain gph's per tank. My rule of thumb is 2gph for every 100gal for starters. Some of my tanks handle this ratio fine... other tanks use double or triple that if needed depending on stocks or if im getting lazy and dont feel like cleaning filters ill just up my drip lol... i order my emitters from dripworks.com but they can be had almost anywhere online with a quick google search for drip emitters or sprinkler type supply stores.. i just T off the main 1/4" line with as many emitters i need to make a desired gph. some tanks have 1 emitter...others have 3-4. U can do this any way u please also tho. I like being able to change things around as needed and the 1/4" poly tubing makes it easy to add/subtract in a pinch. Over the years i keep tweaking my drip lines when issues arise, learn...and move forward. I now make my own pressure regulator to manage/view the way the lines and house water pressure are flowing and keep them at a consistent gph. Most everything i use comes from the hardware store aside from the emitters and liquid filled pressure guages. If i could go back and start over i might run a larger "feed" line for clean water but again i kinda like the ease of the 1/4" poly tube. Ive had to modify the saddle valves i use to attain a constant 40-50psi in a 1/4" line but as i said earlier, live, learn, and improve. Drip emitters are usually rated at 60psi... took me a while of popping them to realise i needed to regulate my house water pressure down to accomidate as its usually high around 80-90psi.. this took well over a year of them running tho before i had problems. Now i can watch my pressure guage drop or rise when a toilet flushes in the house and compensate lol... Had a fun one last week when a city water line burst. my guages dropped down to 10psi and i knew to shut them off for a cple days while the city did repairs. Pretty amazing a $8 guage let me know there was a problem and to call the city. I drove around and found the break 2 miles from my home. My tap was also discolored.

That brings up another point about drips in "pre filtration" since u have a whole home filtration system ur crossing off another expense during setup. I fly by the seat of my pants using just city tap water. After this last incident im looking into carbon and resin filters in case anything happens again.

and the rant goes on lol.... once u setup or figure out how to get fresh water into ur tank comes the part of draining dirty water out. Ur half way there also with the sump pump ran to ur storm ditch. other than that u just need a hole/bulkhead drilled in ur sump to set the water level or u can also drill a hole at ur tanks water level to use as the "drip drain" if u have no sump filter. I have both styles running in house and have ran tanks with just sponge filters and auto drips that worked great as well as canisters/drips and sumps/drips. I basically have 100' of 1.5" pvc pipe that runs around the permitter of my fishroom/basement into the sump pump. I "T" off the main line of pvc and my drip drains go into it. no biggie.

Do alot of reading if needed, dont get confused or over think it, its not hard to setup even on a budget. I spent $150-200 initially to supply/drain 12-15 tanks at any given time. I learned quickly with pieces/parts to play with in real life but thats just me. U may be able to plan everything out better on paper or research alone. I needed to dive right into installation to grasp it fully, observe, and then make improvements. Def...most def. the best fish improvement i made in 15yrs of keeping. Kicking myself for not doing it sooner. Even if i only had a 10gal tank id still use autodrip. Eleminates stress from water changes, improves stability in ur system and the quality of life in house for my fish improved greatly. Makes for a happy spouse also hahah...as u have more time for "real life" with no more w\c's....and most importantly more time for u to enjoy ur fish/hobby rather than be a slave to it.
 
Sorry I missed you post bro. Here is my system:

Incoming:
-Hot and cold lines ran from hot water heater (pex)
-on to thermostatic mixing valve set to 80 degrees.
-on to dual 10" filter guys housings for 5 micron sediment filters
-on to dual 10" filter guys housings for Matrix CTO block filters for chlorine removal
-on to tanks, controlled by irrigation drip emitters (each tank adjustable from 1GPH to 16GPH

Outgoing:
-gravity fed to overflow in sump
-exits sump to main drain line 1.5" PVC ran around the base of the floor of the room
-that drains to the lowest point of the floor where the storage containers are
-Home Depot sump pump on a float switch kicks on when container full, pumps through a hole in the wall (insulated and sealed with great stuff foam) and into my downspout for the gutters.

My drip is heated, dechlorinated and I never see a drop of water unless I want to.
 
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Reading this really makes me want to consider a drip system too. I had been reluctant to pursue given that I would still have to siphon my rock substrate which I dont like to do. But it does help to avoid draining more water after Im done. I can also skip the WC I do every two weeks too.
 
Reading this really makes me want to consider a drip system too. I had been reluctant to pursue given that I would still have to siphon my rock substrate which I dont like to do. But it does help to avoid draining more water after Im done. I can also skip the WC I do every two weeks too.

I can't believe I am admitting I did this...


If you want to still vac your gravel and not drain any water (post installing a drip system) make a vacuum. I screwed and ocean clear and pump to a skateboard so I have a mobile vac station with a long python tube. It works so awesome

IMG_5470.JPG

Not hijacking your thread Jaws. I know you have a passion for ghetto stuff too LOL!
 
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I can't believe I am admitting I did this...


If you want to still vac your gravel and not drain any water (post installing a drip system) make a vacuum. I screwed and ocean clear and pump to a skateboard so I have a mobile vac station with a long python tube. It works so awesome

View attachment 1263910

Not hijacking your thread Jaws. I know you have a passion for ghetto stuff too LOL!

I drain about 65-75% of my 260gallon when I do WC every two weeks (that's close to fin to fin for my 18" Lei). I alternate vacuuming the substrate. If i added a drip I wouldnt mind refillling the amount I siphoned out and it still would be faster to fill than what I do now.

Yup, seen using a return pump to siphon to filter sock contraption to avoid removing water.

Now, back to this drip system thang... ;-)
 
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I can't believe I am admitting I did this...


If you want to still vac your gravel and not drain any water (post installing a drip system) make a vacuum. I screwed and ocean clear and pump to a skateboard so I have a mobile vac station with a long python tube. It works so awesome

View attachment 1263910

Not hijacking your thread Jaws. I know you have a passion for ghetto stuff too LOL!


Heck no...no such thing as a derail imo the more comments the better, never know what could be learned...pls derail at will lol
I drain about 65-75% of my 260gallon when I do WC every two weeks (that's close to fin to fin for my 18" Lei). I alternate vacuuming the substrate. If i added a drip I wouldnt mind refillling the amount I siphoned out and it still would be faster to fill than what I do now.

Yup, seen using a return pump to siphon to filter sock contraption to avoid removing water.

Now, back to this drip system thang... ;-)

Have you thought about switching to sand and dosing with ridx ? I swear it works i havent gravel vac'd for a couple of yrs

JK47 JK47 wednesday13 wednesday13 im gonna have to read your comments a couple of times then ask about 1000 questions lol but im definitly going to try and get this going.

Im hoping to get either a 300 or 360 over the next month or so. Current 300 is well overstocked with 11 polys and a pearsei. Hitting 40 ppm every 3 days. Figure i would set the drip up on the new tank move the polys in there and keep the current 300 lightly stocked.
 
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It sounds more complicated than it is... my drip systems are fairly cheap, plugg and play, and easy to install. Sure, theres more than one way to skin a cat...and theres also always room for improvement with any system imo. I started with a $12 "ice maker" kit from home depot and went from there. I had plenty help from fish friends on here also. Couldnt have done it without them. Basically i use "saddle valves" from the ice maker kits and 1/4" poly tubing to get my clean water from my houses copper lines. After that i use an assortment of push connect or barbed fittings into drip emitters to make certain gph's per tank. My rule of thumb is 2gph for every 100gal for starters. Some of my tanks handle this ratio fine... other tanks use double or triple that if needed depending on stocks or if im getting lazy and dont feel like cleaning filters ill just up my drip lol... i order my emitters from dripworks.com but they can be had almost anywhere online with a quick google search for drip emitters or sprinkler type supply stores.. i just T off the main 1/4" line with as many emitters i need to make a desired gph. some tanks have 1 emitter...others have 3-4. U can do this any way u please also tho. I like being able to change things around as needed and the 1/4" poly tubing makes it easy to add/subtract in a pinch. Over the years i keep tweaking my drip lines when issues arise, learn...and move forward. I now make my own pressure regulator to manage/view the way the lines and house water pressure are flowing and keep them at a consistent gph. Most everything i use comes from the hardware store aside from the emitters and liquid filled pressure guages. If i could go back and start over i might run a larger "feed" line for clean water but again i kinda like the ease of the 1/4" poly tube. Ive had to modify the saddle valves i use to attain a constant 40-50psi in a 1/4" line but as i said earlier, live, learn, and improve. Drip emitters are usually rated at 60psi... took me a while of popping them to realise i needed to regulate my house water pressure down to accomidate as its usually high around 80-90psi.. this took well over a year of them running tho before i had problems. Now i can watch my pressure guage drop or rise when a toilet flushes in the house and compensate lol... Had a fun one last week when a city water line burst. my guages dropped down to 10psi and i knew to shut them off for a cple days while the city did repairs. Pretty amazing a $8 guage let me know there was a problem and to call the city. I drove around and found the break 2 miles from my home. My tap was also discolored.

That brings up another point about drips in "pre filtration" since u have a whole home filtration system ur crossing off another expense during setup. I fly by the seat of my pants using just city tap water. After this last incident im looking into carbon and resin filters in case anything happens again.

and the rant goes on lol.... once u setup or figure out how to get fresh water into ur tank comes the part of draining dirty water out. Ur half way there also with the sump pump ran to ur storm ditch. other than that u just need a hole/bulkhead drilled in ur sump to set the water level or u can also drill a hole at ur tanks water level to use as the "drip drain" if u have no sump filter. I have both styles running in house and have ran tanks with just sponge filters and auto drips that worked great as well as canisters/drips and sumps/drips. I basically have 100' of 1.5" pvc pipe that runs around the permitter of my fishroom/basement into the sump pump. I "T" off the main line of pvc and my drip drains go into it. no biggie.

Do alot of reading if needed, dont get confused or over think it, its not hard to setup even on a budget. I spent $150-200 initially to supply/drain 12-15 tanks at any given time. I learned quickly with pieces/parts to play with in real life but thats just me. U may be able to plan everything out better on paper or research alone. I needed to dive right into installation to grasp it fully, observe, and then make improvements. Def...most def. the best fish improvement i made in 15yrs of keeping. Kicking myself for not doing it sooner. Even if i only had a 10gal tank id still use autodrip. Eleminates stress from water changes, improves stability in ur system and the quality of life in house for my fish improved greatly. Makes for a happy spouse also hahah...as u have more time for "real life" with no more w\c's....and most importantly more time for u to enjoy ur fish/hobby rather than be a slave to it.

Sorry I missed you post bro. Here is my system:

Incoming:
-Hot and cold lines ran from hot water heater (pex)
-on to thermostatic mixing valve set to 80 degrees.
-on to dual 10" filter guys housings for 5 micron sediment filters
-on to dual 10" filter guys housings for Matrix CTO block filters for chlorine removal
-on to tanks, controlled by irrigation drip emitters (each tank adjustable from 1GPH to 16GPH

Outgoing:
-gravity fed to overflow in sump
-exits sump to main drain line 1.5" PVC ran around the base of the floor of the room
-that drains to the lowest point of the floor where the storage containers are
-Home Depot sump pump on a float switch kicks on when container full, pumps through a hole in the wall (insulated and sealed with great stuff foam) and into my downspout for the gutters.

My drip is heated, dechlorinated and I never see a drop of water unless I want to.

Smh lol i feel like i did when i 1st got into sumps...
Sounds like rocket science lol

So the drip emitters are connected to tje hotwater tank ? How do you guys mix in cold water ?
 
[QUOTE="jaws7777, post: 7780150, member: 121129"


Have you thought about switching to sand and dosing with ridx ? I swear it works i havent gravel vac'd for a couple of[/QUOTE]

I have thought about going sand for aesthetic reasons, but I also like the black river rock look too.

I like the ridx idea with sand, tell me more and any particular reading I should do? What are the negatives with that approach?
 
Smh lol i feel like i did when i 1st got into sumps...
Sounds like rocket science lol

So the drip emitters are connected to tje hotwater tank ? How do you guys mix in cold water ?

Skip the heated portion. Would probably be a better idea to get a good understanding of drip before adding complexity like temp. Do straight cold water through a carbon filter.
 
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I've found simpler is better with drip. Mine is very simple...

25 psi regulator coming off a cold water line. You can buy these for less than $10 on ebay/amazon

1/4" nipple adapter cheap on ebay

1/4" airline tubing

Drip emitter you can also use an airline valve. Emitters are cheap and usually sold 10 in a bag for a couple bucks.

I tee'd off a cold water line in my basement, ran it up through the floor by the tank. Put a 3/4" threaded adapter. Screwed the 25 psi regulator to that. Screwed the 1/4" nipple adapter to that. Pushed the airline onto that and stick the drip emitter on the other end and attached it to the rim of the tank. My drip emitters have 10 "click" settings. I ran it into a 5 gallon bucket and timed how long it took to fill it. Was able to make adjustments to figure out how many gallons per day would work best. I also installed a home water filtration system in the cold water line so I don't worry about running through a carbon filter at the tank any more
 
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