water changes??
- Thread starter livebearerfreak
- Start date
Test the nitrates level before and after each wc and divide the increase by the number of days between the wc. After a month or two, you will be able to estimate precisely what is the average daily increase even if the test kit isn't accurate within 1ppm. It's the same principle as in opinion surveys. One interview won't permit you to generalise (not accurate within 1ppm) but more will. No need to be a biologist with a pro kit. Every day test kits are not totally accurate, but they are not totally inacurate.
tableau;4113077; said:
Yeh but even the master test kit which is about the best one you can get your hands on cheaply, the scale for PPM nitrate is 0, 5, 10, 20, 40, 80. Sometimes it's hard to even confirm 100% which colour matches up with what, let alone if it's 20ppm or 22ppm. It wouldn't work...
2 ppm in a week do not make an important difference when you divide it by seven days. I know it's a lot of work and easier to say it does not work so I won't do it. It works for me and it permitted me to keep my nitrates level stable for the last years, more or less 5 ppm. In conclusion, approximative water changes and parameters control leads to approximative results.
tableau;4113181; said:
Yes I know what you mean. But do you really think the average fish keeper is gonna do that, if they are already so stupid to have huge nitrate levels already because they don't change enough water, overstock heavily and overfeed? Doubtful, it's ALOT of work.
You say it right. I also must admit that colors are always difficult to distinguish in the tests kits like you said.
I observe certain water parameters to appreciate how much and with what frequency a W is in order.
This is more or less the steps I consider with FW tanks:
1st I check the TDS. If TDS is at or above 285, I go for a 25% WC with RO water or 50%WC with treated tap water.
2nd, even if TDS is OK, I take readings of Nitrates. Nitrates at or above 40ppm calls for almost a total WC. Within 25-35ppm a 50% while within 10-20ppm 25%. For nitrates I could go either with RO or treated tap water since my tap water contains no nitrates.
3rd, If both TDS and Nitrates are OK I check GH and KH. The value of one (or both) of these variables at which to perform WC depends on the tank setting: e.g. planted? hard/alkaline or soft/acidic? clear or blackwater?
For soft/acidic tanks with tea-colored water (e.g. Apistogramma tank) I perform more likely every other day top-off and at least one weekly small partial WC, likely a 10 or 15%. I don't want water parameters to vary too much. That's why for delicate species, a mature tank is important.
At or below 2.0 dGH and/or at or below 1.0 dKH calls for 25% WC but a GH at 3.0 (or more) and a KH at 2.0 (or more) I would only go with 10% WC.
Of course if pH is important (e.g. Blue Rams tank, pH 5.7) the rule I apply is small yet more frequent water changes, going for 15% WC at the most.
I used to check REDOX potential for FW but stopped doing so. I still have the pocket meter but I use it mostly in SW tanks.
Pepetj
Santo Domingo
This is more or less the steps I consider with FW tanks:
1st I check the TDS. If TDS is at or above 285, I go for a 25% WC with RO water or 50%WC with treated tap water.
2nd, even if TDS is OK, I take readings of Nitrates. Nitrates at or above 40ppm calls for almost a total WC. Within 25-35ppm a 50% while within 10-20ppm 25%. For nitrates I could go either with RO or treated tap water since my tap water contains no nitrates.
3rd, If both TDS and Nitrates are OK I check GH and KH. The value of one (or both) of these variables at which to perform WC depends on the tank setting: e.g. planted? hard/alkaline or soft/acidic? clear or blackwater?
For soft/acidic tanks with tea-colored water (e.g. Apistogramma tank) I perform more likely every other day top-off and at least one weekly small partial WC, likely a 10 or 15%. I don't want water parameters to vary too much. That's why for delicate species, a mature tank is important.
At or below 2.0 dGH and/or at or below 1.0 dKH calls for 25% WC but a GH at 3.0 (or more) and a KH at 2.0 (or more) I would only go with 10% WC.
Of course if pH is important (e.g. Blue Rams tank, pH 5.7) the rule I apply is small yet more frequent water changes, going for 15% WC at the most.
I used to check REDOX potential for FW but stopped doing so. I still have the pocket meter but I use it mostly in SW tanks.
Pepetj
Santo Domingo
dude easy way 50% w/c every friday wtf its on like 35 gallom at max i do 50-60 % every week on both my 120 and my 125 buy a python makes life easy
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/1344/product.web
http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/group/1344/product.web
