Water conditioners question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Thanks. Ya I have thousands in stock I hear ya losing one or a few would be horrible. So many option for killing fish of course. I use to use prime and then a friend said what is prime? And I explained and he said he never used it. So when I ran out I stopped buying it. But I do have a bottle around for brand new tanks. If I washed my filter socks with bleach or something I would be using it.

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Well here is to a chloramine tank then. That will kill all live stock and the Bio. And breeding would be impossible but here is the fry .

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The only concern I would have, is the varying amounts of chems that may be added by the water treatment facility. In the past, people have commented on their WTF (water treatment facility:) ) adding larger doses of chems on the weekends or if a holiday is coming up. Since then, I have noticed that on some weekends, I notice an obvious smell with my city water. Almost a sulfur type of smell. Maybe its just me... Anyway, that being said, if someone makes a mistake (we are all human) at the WTF or makes a large add on purpose, using no dechlorinator would have disasterous results. Just hate to see such beautiful stock put at risk. For that matter, well water could have its own issues depending on time of year and run off from farm ground. If going no chems, I would at least have a whole house carbon filter on the incoming water supply just to be safe.
Awhile back, there was a discussion about long term keeping of Flower rays, it seemed as if the long term keepers out there had two things in common, whole house carbon/sediment filteration, and drip. Just a very inexpensive insurance policy IMO.
 
Tap water is Zero and I do a constant drip. Have done as much as 10gph for a week to 3 gph is what I normally run. Never seen any change in my tank its always zero


What PPM ammonia is in your tap water and what is your water change regime (percentage/frequency)?



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Hey Kevin,

From what I have read, chlorine can burn off pretty quickly whereas chloramine is much more stable.

The Jordan Valley Water quality Report for 2011 states the avg chlorine reading was .5 mg/l or 0.500571152 PPM with a maximum reading topping out at 1.5 mg/l or 1.501713455PPM.

The fact that you are running a drip is why are able to get away with not treating your water. If you were to do a big 50% water change all at once when your municipality happened to increase chlorine levels to 1.5 mg/l, you would probably have some losses, or at the very least, negative effects. But since you are introducing small amounts of water to your system relatively slowly, it is likely burning off before it becomes toxic.

I'm not so sure you would be able to do this if your treatment plant used chloramine.

+1 for using Seachem Safe (powered version of Prime).

I bought 1 Kilo for $40, which will treat 200,000 gallons. That comes out to $0.02 per 100 gallons of water treated. It's cheap insurance for those of us with water treated with chloramine or who have chlorinated water but do not run drip systems.

Not sure how much truth there is to this, but apparently running a UV will also help to remove both chlorine and chloramine: http://uvsciences.com/chlorine.html
 
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