What do you think I might be dealing with here?

[skjl47]

The problem I'm finding is that as I look at multiple sources I see different pieces of advice

he dechlorinator (which I have ALWAYS added, not sure why that keeps being brought up). Should I not add Prime

Hello; Back in 2010 or 11 I got a decent internet. Not too long after I joined this site. You are correct in that there are conflicting opinions on here. Somewhat few areas of consensus. For me it was not much of a problem as i started keeping tropical fish around 1959. Took a while for me to wade thru all the opinions and determine who was worth listening to. But i had decades of experience so knew how to run a tank. In the process of calling BS on some things I have made long term enemies on here. For some their particular dogma is too important to be swayed. I do not envy the task you face. I also do not have any good suggestions as to how to wade thru it all. Here is my point. You now have the attention of one of the best in duanes. I cannot think of a time when he steered someone wrong. I do suggest that you do not get short with him again.

I also understand why he brought up the dechlorinator again. I have repeated things myself because sometimes your responses appear that you have missed some significant points. I have asked that you do some things and have yet to get a response. Fair enough, you are under no more obligation to do so than I or any other member is obligated to make suggestions. A thing is we are trying to decipher a puzzle remotely without full information. The things i suggest are not just to annoy you. I also do not have a fix for your issues, and my suggestions may well be a waste of time in the end.

Not sure what dechlorinator you use but it is my take that if you use PRIME it is all you need. It does that job. You can save some money by using the powder form of PRIME which is called SAFE. Same stuff but cheaper to use in volume.

Right now the only working plan you have is to keep up the WC at an enhanced rate & volume. I see no evidence anything is fixed.

 

[Something Fishy Here]

The reason dechlorinater keeps getting brought up is not personal to you, it is brought up by reflex when discussing any questions about cycling, water changes, beneficial bacteria, tank treatments, or tank maintenance. It is probably one of the most repeated words on this whole forum because for many of us it's the only chemical we use and we use it as often as we use water.

I haven't used ammolok but am guessing that's why your ammonia reading is now 0. There's no magic overnight fix. If you had ammonia readings that high a couple days ago then your tank isn't cycled. Unless you know someone with a mature tank that will give you some used filter media, then there's no instant fix to cycle your tank that i know of. Even the motors bacteria can take s few weeks to cycle a tank, but it's better than a few months without. All i would do is frequent water changes without adding anything except dechlorinater. And test the water every few days. Personally i think the liquid test is more accurate than the strips, but anythings better than not testing. Your cycle won't be complete until you see zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and positive nitrates.

Duanes has been keeping fish longer than I've been alive and would listen if he says you have an infection. I don't know how to treat that personally, I'm guessing a medicating but will let someone with more experience advise.

 

[SCM_2123]

I want to be clear I don't expect an instant fix. I'm sorry if I'm asking too many questions, but this is an effort to do the best I can. Maybe I treated for ich in April when it wasn't ich, but that's what I thought it was. Same when I was told it was columnaris. Now I'm hearing ammonia and it's quite likely that was the problem all along. I'm following the directions and am willing to try just one chemical like Prime. I know I'm not out of the woods yet. I apologize if any of this is coming across as being short, I guess I found the response a bit rude. That being said, it's not like tone comes across well on the internet so I'm willing to move on. As far as the tank goes I'll keep doing the water changes and hope for the best. I'll update with any changes and if I have more questions.

 

[Something Fishy Here]

I didn't read it as rude, and don't blame you for asking questions. It can be frustrating dealing with a tank issue when you don't know what's going on. This is s discussion forum and sometimes we get off track. And when everyone puts in their 2 cents sometimes you get differing answers, but i usually go with the consensus, or the least drastic first and monitor.

Again i don't personally have much experience or knowledge with bacterial infection or fungal infection but if you have one as Duanes said, and i would trust his diagnosis, you may need a treatment, or possibly just adding salt and lots of water changes. Hopefully someone else will advise. Good luck

 

[SCM_2123]

I plan on adding Prime at water changes and perhaps just that. Although would that and Seacham Stability be okay? I asked that before but haven't seen a response (unless I missed something). I'm not going to put any more chemicals in the water. On the plus side it does appear that the Congo tetras' eyes look better. One of the red eyes still has a bit of cloudiness. Hopefully I didn't just jinx it. I'll do the twice weekly 75% water changes as was suggested previously. Is there anything else I'm missing that I could do in the meantime?

 

[skjl47]

Hello; A suggestion for the future. If you have the capacity, try using a hospital tank rather than treating a 55 gallon. With the size fish you have pictured a five- or ten-gallon tank can work. Put the affected fish in that and try treatments. Has the advantages of being cheaper to use in terms of medications, does not mess with an established cycled tank and lets you try different treatments. A quarantine tank can become such a tank if new fish show disease or parasites. I have used 5-gallon buckets.

One old school medication is methylene blue dye. May be better for fungal type problems but is fairly well tolerated by the fish. It is a permanent dye so be careful. it does not wear off whatever it dyes. I have had blue fingers for many days before.

There are or at least there used to be antibiotic's available in fish shops. I have used them in five-gallon buckets. Antibiotics in a cycled tank with kill off the BB you need to have a cycled tank.

These suggestions will not help your current situation.

would that and Seacham Stability be okay?

Hello; I have not used the stuff so am not comfortable commenting on it's use. My take so far is you are in a wait and see stage. If your issue is the simpler lack of BB and a failed cycle, then ongoing WC and eventually some BB colonies becoming established will clear things up as the ammonia & nitrite go away.

Hello; If your tank has an infection of some sort then the issue will continue even after the ammonia & nitrite are gone. The condition of the fish may be some better as they will no longer have the added effects of ammonia. At that point you will have to determine the lengths to which to go. If the fish continue to be ill, then you may be faced with taking the tank down and sanitizing it and the contents. That could be weeks away. But if all the current fish die such may be a thing to consider.

 

[Something Fishy Here]

I haven't used stability, i used another bottle bacteria product once. It still took several weeks to balance the tank cycle, maybe 5 or 6 if i recall but my memory isn't great. But i believe without it a cycle can take 2 to 3 months if i recall.

I think that will be fine if you want to use it but have no expertise to say if it will help anything or how specifically it must be used.