what type of raw fish meat could i give my fish?
- Thread starter jagsandpits
- Start date
Tilipia fillets, but I wouldnt do every other day. I would only do it as a treat as a quality pellet should be your main everyday diet.
Aside from that grasshoppers, crickets, earthworms are all good treats. My jag gets a lot more feisty with something squirming than it does with a tilapia fillet etc. Make no mistake it will get more nutrition from a pellet than a regular whole fillet. IMHO of course.
Aside from that grasshoppers, crickets, earthworms are all good treats. My jag gets a lot more feisty with something squirming than it does with a tilapia fillet etc. Make no mistake it will get more nutrition from a pellet than a regular whole fillet. IMHO of course.
I agree, fish meat should be more of a treat than part of the daily feeding. I don't feed supermarket fish meat to my fish just because it is not guaranteed to be fish safe. A desease that can hurt fish might be harmless to humans. If you want to add some more protien into your fish's diet, blood worms, dried krill,or brine shrimp work great. As long as they are sold as fish food, not that you would find blood worms at a supermarket.
North American Journal of Aquaculture
Volume 66, Issue 4, 2004
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1577/A03-035.1
Some of the leading experts in the field of fish nutrition took part in that study, to which it was stated:
and
Without performing a necropsy, and examining the histological changes in the liver under a microscope, the average hobbyist wouldn't have clue one as to the potential long term damage they were doing to their fish.
With regards to thiaminase, parasites, etc ........
All raw uncooked fish has the potential to contain nematodes (worms) and various other pathogens, and yes these can affect fish in your aquarium.
My advice when dealing with fresh fish products, buy fresh, freeze for 48 hrs at 0F (-18C) to destroy any potential parasites, and use up within 30 days or so. Freezing will not destroy all micro-organisms, so there is still some risk involved in feeding frozen products, but freezing certainly minimizes those risks. Also note that frozen fish that have been unthawed under refrigeration, should be fed within 24 hrs. (or discarded)
Freezing tends to also increase the concentration of thiaminase in tissue, so the shorter the duration in the freezer, the better. Little is known as to how thiaminase affects various species, and according to various studies the amounts found (even within the same species of fish) tend to vary as well. Most public aquariums tend to supplement to avoid deficiencies. (especially B1, vitamin E, and vitamin C) IMO fish kept in captivity require full vitamin & trace mineral supplementation to some degree or another. This is a non-issue if one is feeding a commercial pellet as the staple.
HTH
Don't know what you base that on, or maybe it works for you, but it sounds like rather a fatalistic approach. Or it might be true in your tanks or with some fishkeepers, but I've never had a fish die from heater malfunction, only time I've ever lost fish due to power outage (and we get them frequently) was when our power was out ten days after last year's derecho storm (during which over 90% of mine came through just fine) and my water quality is good and always has been.
On the other hand, it's very well documented in aquaculture science that good vs. poor nutrition can have a direct effect on growth, health, longevity, stress resistance, disease and pathogen resistance, etc.
And not to start something with anyone in particular, but for the record I've had more fish live, not just over 5 years, but over ten years than I can recount. Good food + clean water + a little common sense in tank size and tankmates + a reasonable modicum of biosecurity and the odds are on your side.
I'd bet that (malfunctioning) heaters are the #1 cause of equipment-related aquarium deaths. I've lost a few tanks of fish over the years to faulty heaters.
That said, just about any good-quality pellet has the nutrition that fish need to live long and healthy lives... Diets of feeder fish, bread, dog food, hot dogs, canned tuna and other stupidity are likely to be deficient for most fish.
My advice: keep it simple. do water changes. and feed less.
Matt
That said, just about any good-quality pellet has the nutrition that fish need to live long and healthy lives... Diets of feeder fish, bread, dog food, hot dogs, canned tuna and other stupidity are likely to be deficient for most fish.
My advice: keep it simple. do water changes. and feed less.
Matt
Simple fix to that is buy a controller like an Apex from Neptune and that won't happen. Set what you want your heater to run at and set your failsafes so if it goes out of that range it kills that outlet. Can also run another outlet with a second heater so if the first one fails the second will take over. Plenty of used controllers on the market for decent prices.
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Not that I've never had a heater get old and start to go out of whack but I've always caught it by noticing water was unusually cool or warm-- even felt current in the tank once and replaced that heater. Some heaters I've had over the years were definitely more reliable/durable than others, have had some last ten years and others just two. In any case, I'm somewhere in the upper 20s of years keeping fish and have never lost fish to heaters going bad.
...at least not yet
...at least not yet
Back to food and along similar lines as above is the following from RD's reference above:
IMO some worry too much about max growth when it's better to think in terms of overall health.
