Why are my zoos dying

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Myteemouse;4400039; said:
MAG, CAL, ALK, is all you need to ad.
And yes MAG is VERY important.

Old salty dog taught me,
IF YOU DON'T TEST FOR IT, DON'T ADD IT!

^^^ Agreed on all counts. That being said some people test for strontium and iodine, but if you can get measurable readings of those then you have to much haha.
 
+1 for the no testing no adding. Good rule, I already use it.

I have yet to meet someone, or read about someone, who had a magnesium problem. Most of them are just freaking out about nothing. If you are doing regular water changes with quality salt, and you are dosing for calcium in the right way (most calcium supplements contain magnesium because its necessary for the synthesis of the calcium) you should never have a magnesium problem. Testing, and dosing for magnesium are largely a waste of time.
 
ive noticed that alk is the fastest to drop. mine can drop as much a 2dkh a week. calcuim seems to be quite slower. but my water is very soft right out of the tap. but i use ro/di water for my salt tank.

does ro water have a dkh of 0? i havent tested it.
 
FLESHY;4400866; said:
+1 for the no testing no adding. Good rule, I already use it.

I have yet to meet someone, or read about someone, who had a magnesium problem. Most of them are just freaking out about nothing. If you are doing regular water changes with quality salt, and you are dosing for calcium in the right way (most calcium supplements contain magnesium because its necessary for the synthesis of the calcium) you should never have a magnesium problem. Testing, and dosing for magnesium are largely a waste of time.

im not sure why my mag was low. when i first started the tank i used redsea pro coral salt. now im using instant ocean reef salt. i was using a new seachem test kit and it read about 1000ppm consitantly. it is closer to 1250 now.
 
Some test kits are crazy...instant ocean ones deffinitely doesnt work. At this point all test kits sketch me out, but I use salifert just because thats what most of the hardcore reefers use.

My alk also drops like crazy, but instead of buffering it, I just stopped fighting it. My levels are low, but they are consistent, and hard coral growth is not suffering from it.

DOSING RULE #2: Dont fix what ain't broke.
 
im worried if let the alk get too low my ph will fall. i dont want the ph any lower then it is. 8.2 in the day 8.0 at night.
 
i just realized he added a turf scrubber and his nitrate is 0.. could they be doing bad cause not enough light or too much current?
 
Both are possible, though it can be tricky to get to much flow... Though they tend to be moderat to high flow, so I believe that you would really have to blast them to have to much flow I think... but I could be wrong.
 
I'm kinda wondering if I should be using the wavemaker to alternate flow some. Right now I have both pumps on all the time with a small powerhead. The only thing that worries me about that is not getting enough flow to the cheato in the fuge. My frogspawn is blowing around pretty good.
 
The only thing that changed when I noticed them starting to go was the turf scrubber which in in my sump. So my water quality has dropped in nutrient levels. I talked to my local guy here and he said that was what he thought would cause it. I started doing some direct feeding and added a some more fish since my bio load is definitely not too high. We will see what happens over the next couple of weeks. I did not direct feed the zoos before because I thought they were almost completely photo. But I was told if there is 0 nitrates it does not work (speaking about zoos in particular) and that a little nutrients helps them. I will see what happens. Thanks everyone.
 
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