WHY IS MY CICHLID DIEING?

[BarroomHero]

I did notice some stringy poop but I did not notice any bloating. Is there someting specific that I can get so I can check the parameters properly. I dont think the pet store telliing me that my water is safe is enoughf. is it?

It sounds like the fish have bloat. You have mbuna? If so that hikari is probably too high in protein which could be causing the bloat. You need to try and find someplace that sells metronidazole or jungle parasite clear. By this point it may be too late, but it would be a good idea to treat the rest of the tank to help prevent anyone else from getting sick.

You could buy an API Freshwater Master Test Kit.
http://www.petsolutions.com/default.aspx?ItemId=17101034&EID=17101034&SID=FROOGLE

 

[knifegill]

Oh, okay. A well-established tank usually won't spike. I guessed wrong.

Never trust the pet store. Make them give you numbers if you can't afford drip tests.

At three years, my 75g was getting oversaturated with dissolved organic compounds in spite of my routine W/C and light feedings. My royal pleco would break out in little white spots here and there and I'd treat him, only to have a recurrence within weeks. If your nitrAtes are over 40 and water changes don't help in the long run, you may need to do what I did. The most irritating thing ever. Starting over from a clean tank, cycling it and knowing there isn't any hidden muck anywhere rotting slowly.

Of course, with white stringy poo and bloat, I would agree with the parasite diagnosis. If the Metronidazole and Praziquantel don't do it, try Piperazine in the food and water column. I believe salt helps, too, but there is disagreement on whether or not it affects intestinal parasites or just external ones.

I'd certainly avoid heavy feedings for awhile, and probably no food until the worm clears, unless it takes more than a week to do it.

Bloat can happen on its own without parasites and vice-versa. Find some literature on each to make an accurate diagnosis before treating.

 

[herefishyfishyfishy]

Im new to this site but i have alot of experience so take this as you will. Go get yourself an API master test kit they are typically around the 30 dollar range. This will test for PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Once we know the numbers we can formulate a game plan. With the stringy poo it sounds like they may have a parasite. To start i would go way larger then a %50 water change. Do as much as you can until the warter is just above their heads all the while doing a through gravel cleaning. I wouldnt stress with cleaning the filters at this point as keeping the benifical bacteria healthy is a must at this point. Get yourself some prime by seachem while you get your API master test kit. Prime will declorinate and detox ammo and nitrite if there is any left present after your massive change. Apart from that i would get a thermometer and get the temo reading. Increasing the heat shouldnt be necessary as the problems you are describing dont seem to be killed with heat. But while it is up, increasing surface aggitation and arration will be a great idea. Stay on the water changes for the next few days. With fin rot present the water quality must have taken a hit recently and for a good amount of time. It will clear on its own with fresh water.
Remember these reading are what you should be looking for, anything but these numbers and we will have to monitor day by day:
Ammo: 0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: below 40ppm with below 20 ppm being ideal. I strive for below 10 ppm.
Ph: this shouldnt matter unless it is at an extreme level, the most important part here is to keep it constant. If there is a swing in PH you may shock your fish.
While your at it run a full test on your tap water and get back to us.
Best of luck buddy!!

 

[BarroomHero]

Here is a good article on bloat.

http://cichlid-forum.com/articles/malawi_bloat.php

 

[Lupin]

I did notice some stringy poop but I did not notice any bloating. Is there someting specific that I can get so I can check the parameters properly. I dont think the pet store telliing me that my water is safe is enoughf. is it?

Stringy poo isn't always an accurate way to tell if the fish has suspected internal parasites unless associated by other symptoms quite prominent with internal parasite infestations.

As for your water parameters, get your own API liquid test kit and don't rely on your pet store to tell you the water is fine. If possible, have them check the expiration date of the test kit, brand and jot down the results. Test strips are also unreliable.

Edit: I was skimming again and beaten on second paragraph.

 

[T-Hbrand]

I dont know how to get my tap water tested let alone what I am looking for. Thanks for the feed back guys.

 

[Pyramid_Party]

Test your tap water with the kit. You really need a test kit. You should post up pics, I dont see it hurting if you do this.

 

[T-Hbrand]

I got my water tested at the LFS but I dont trust the results. The reason I say this that he lat all teh tests sit for a long time before he checked them I could be wrong but I dont think you are supposed to do that with all the test. just in case he was right though he came up with nitrite 10ppm nitrate 1.0ppm and ammonia 8.0ppm. If he was right that is REALLY HIGH. I also picked up some metronidazole. I also realized my green terrors arnt having any of thesse issuse only my africans.

Plan of action
Make some vegtible base food for the africans and add the metronidazole (unless some one thinks it should be added to just the water.

water change. what is the best Idea for water changes?

that API test kit was 50 dolla

I think I might get my GF to staff disscount it she works there.

 

[BarroomHero]

I got my water tested at the LFS but I dont trust the results. The reason I say this that he lat all teh tests sit for a long time before he checked them I could be wrong but I dont think you are supposed to do that with all the test. just in case he was right though he came up with nitrite 10ppm nitrate 1.0ppm and ammonia 8.0ppm. If he was right that is REALLY HIGH. I also picked up some metronidazole. I also realized my green terrors arnt having any of thesse issuse only my africans.

Plan of action
Make some vegtible base food for the africans and add the metronidazole (unless some one thinks it should be added to just the water.

water change. what is the best Idea for water changes?

that API test kit was 50 dolla

I think I might get my GF to staff disscount it she works there.

Adding the metronidazole can be a good way to treat for internal parasites, if they will eat it. For the fish that already arent eating its not going to do a lot of good.

It may or may not be internal parasites though, your issues could be due to the high amounts of nitrites and ammonia. You said the tank has been running 3 years, did something happen to cause it to cycle again? For example did it not have any fish or ammonia source to keep the bacteria alive for a while or something?

 

[T-Hbrand]

nothing would have caused it to cycle again There was always fish in the tank