Yep, what he said.Pharaoh;3354351; said:
A 10g sump is do-able, but you will drive yourself crazy making it work and getting the bugs out.
First Setup plan
- Thread starter Redoog
- Start date
A 10g sump is do-able, but you will drive yourself crazy making it work and getting the bugs out.
Use saltwater to cure the cement. I forget if it is type one or type two portland cement that you should use, but I'll go check the garage tomorrow for what I have out there. On the GARF site, they cure their rock for 24 hrs before putting it to use. Still, I'd give it a week or two.
It's going to be a while before I get the time to post a thread on my new way of plumbing a tank (for silent operation). Here's some pictures how it is done. Remember, you saw it here first.
This is the plumbing in the tank. The outer two stand pipes handle the majority of the flow. The center one only gets a trickle.
This is the plumbing in the tank. The outer two stand pipes handle the majority of the flow. The center one only gets a trickle.
And the plumbing...
The two ball valves are slowly closed to tune the flow to what the pump will output. They are closed down until the water rises to the top of the center pipe.
It is important to know that the plumbing must be over sized 2x. Otherwise the pipes will still audibly suck in air. This wasn't an issue in my silent overflow box because of the prefilter.
And yes, that is an algae turf scrubber. More on that at a later date.
The two ball valves are slowly closed to tune the flow to what the pump will output. They are closed down until the water rises to the top of the center pipe.
It is important to know that the plumbing must be over sized 2x. Otherwise the pipes will still audibly suck in air. This wasn't an issue in my silent overflow box because of the prefilter.
And yes, that is an algae turf scrubber. More on that at a later date.
Ummm...I just noticed that the first picture doesn't make much sense because I forgot to take off the yellow strainers from the main overflows. The outer two pipes are about 3/4" below the water line so they don't suck in air. They also don't make any noise because of it. The center pipe doesn't make any noise because it is barely a trickle of water that sticks to the side of the pipe.
ok 3rd draft take a look let me know. I can NOT do my background. Just thought about it, and I will have to work around the floor joists, so i do not know exactly where the holes will go until i get the cabinet in and joists locations calculated.
I fi can not find a used 20+tank, i will go complete diy and build a acrylic tank for the sump. If your gonna dive in, dive head first.
i second that your gonna want a 20 gallon long atleast. you dont want to have to top off every day. also you want enough room for equipment but you can always add a bigger sump later.Pharaoh;3354351; said:
also i think it would be ok to leave the tree open unless theres a open intake or something in there(the fish can fit in and get sucked into the sump)
ok a couple things i missed the first look over.Redoog;3361098; said:
are you absolutely set on a ugf or rugf? they will give you alot of surface area but they are hard to clean. personally i would just use a regular overflow, because dialing in the overflow rate with a valve sounds kinda iffy. i think the ugf just complicates things.
heres a rockwall that uses epoxy not cement if that helps http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/management/Luto_Jay_DIY_Background.html
