If i were to...
- Thread starter CichlaRyan
- Start date
no water conditioner, there is crushed coral in the substrate, and i keep a minimal amount of salt in most of the tanks. the tanks with plecos have driftwood and all of the tanks get calcium tablets (one) once a month.Guerillah;1986697; said:
the two african tanks get some baking soda now and then when the PH drops back down to 7.6, i try to keep it around 8.0 for the africans. but that has nothing to do with pbass, so i left that out.. lol.
okay guys who ever thinks i didnt make this myself go on every website that talks about peacock bass and find me that. i will bet you all my peacock bass and my 2 endis that i worte it out of my own knowledge and btw i wrote it on word so that i could save it and add onto it.... i hate it so much when please think you C/p when you really didnt and to prove i added on to my other post here some more i came up with. and for you who actually added on and helped i am very thankful and glad your helping others lemmie take this time to thank you for your work.
Basic care for Peacock Bass
Peacock bass have always been a loved species of South American cichlid for a long time from the smaller seven stripe Cichla Intermedia to the superior and speckled Cichla Temensis. Peacock bass have had a ranged history in both fishing and in more advanced Section of Fish keepers. Many fish keepers chose to listen to the needs of the fish, other chose to listen to there wallets. Either way some/most people don’t always do as the fish needs, some times simple errors you cannot see will and may end fatal to your more sensitive Cichla’s. Each species has its own range in pH, Water hardness, Ammonia ,Nitrites and Nitrates the basic parameters.
Cichla Ocellaris
Temperature – at small size anywhere from 82-86 bigger sizes (5in+) would be 79-84
Size- 2ft they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in couple months
Tank Size- for a single ocellaris a 200+ would be better but a tank with a larger width than 27in would be better. For schools 2+ go for a 300+
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto.
Breeding- myself, I have never breed ocellaris it is possible but will require talent and you must think like the fish. The standard I have used to try to breed my bass is about ph 7.5 water hardness half soft half tap. I never have ammonia because it is a big risk factor for sensitive fish like peacock bass. (Please add here I’m not to sure about this part)
________________________________________________________________________
Cichla Monoculus
Temperature- at small size a range would be 82-87 they can withstand a little bit more heat then the ocellaris at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 80-84
Size- 2.25ft-2.35ft they grow to max size in 1-2years. But if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger then recommend tank ; in 6-8months.
Tank Size- they will need a bigger tank then ocellaris preferably 240+ for a single mono for groups 350+ they will probably need a bigger then 350 but I don’t think that any 350 has any width less thank 30in correct me if im wrong on this.
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- Tongue there all yours. All I know is that monos can stand 6.5-7.8pH during breeding regular pH is 6.8-7.2
Cichla Orinocensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-90 they can withstand the most heat in the Cichla Family at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-85 or maybe even lower.
Size- 2ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 6-8 months.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 200+ for a single for groups 300+ they will probably need a bigger then 300.
Attitude- very very very aggressive towards spawning this goes for this Cichla. But normal behavior would be aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- there are steps for orino’s one you see that your orinos have paired off take them and place them into there own spawning tank or else they will kill everything in that tank not exaggeration. I have heard that even a 150G will do but I would go 200+ don’t add substrate add a large flat stable rock because I don’t know if this applies to all Cichla or only orinos but they will lay there eggs on the rock raise temp to 84 apply a little AQ salt and wait for nature to take its course. Once eggs are laid wait for 1weeks till they hatch and parents lay off the spawn. Then either remove parents or fry.
Cichla Temensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-87 they can withstand a high amount of heat. At a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-84.
Size- 3ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 1-1.2 years.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 300+ for a single for groups 450+ they will probably need a bigger then 450.
Attitude- to me there not aggressive at all at smaller size I haven’t yet had a problem with one hurting another but as they grew up they teamed on one and would have killed him if I didn’t take him out. They have to be aggressive during spawning but I don’t know anyone who has mastered tem’s.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- I do not know helps me here people.
Well there you have it people what I know on every basic species im not going to go into Azul and Intermedia because I highly doubt a regular peacock bass keeper will run into these without them being a fake or some shenanigan. The people who have these have to be experienced and know what they are doing or else they wouldn’t buy them in the first place.
General Info and Facts
Keep the water chemistry(parameters) at pH 5.5-8 (7.1), 2-20 dH (8), 73-82°F (23-28°C) these are recommended I find them reasonable and use them and haven’t had a problem since. Keeper filtration at double needed amount. Make sure that you don’t overstock, don’t keep fish that are more predatory/aggressive in a tank with peacocks most fish keepers keep peacock bass with payaras and other South American fish. Make sure that you have air in your tank at all times.
Well as you probably know different foods cause different growth rates coloration and even sometimes behavior a peacock bass’s diet is half of its difficulty. There are a variety of foods I have mentioned in my selected species info this is what I listed;
Feeders- try to stay away from goldfish they wont do you much good they only fatten them they don’t add color they aren’t nutritious and just fat and possibly parasites. Some feeders are better then others I have had better luck with guppies feed convicts and mollys/ dainos those are better then goldfish but not really the best.
Krill- better than feeders but harder to get your fish onto at smaller sizes. If your fish don’t attack/eat it at once try soaking it first and then feeding.
Market shrimp- same principles apply as krill but you may want to cut it up and keep if soaked in Fresh water.
Bloodworms- good for smaller bass most of them will eat it and can last through most there lives but as they get bigger increase quantity to the limit they can eat in 3min.
Brine shrimp- same as bloodworms but not as available as a food once they get bigger.
Pellets- my personal idea of the ideal staple diet for pbass but if you mix through this list and add your own foods that I have not listed or hasn’t come to my mind that will be even better.
Beef heart- not the best thing to feed your fish but may work I have never tried so I am not going to add to this.
Basic care for Peacock Bass
Peacock bass have always been a loved species of South American cichlid for a long time from the smaller seven stripe Cichla Intermedia to the superior and speckled Cichla Temensis. Peacock bass have had a ranged history in both fishing and in more advanced Section of Fish keepers. Many fish keepers chose to listen to the needs of the fish, other chose to listen to there wallets. Either way some/most people don’t always do as the fish needs, some times simple errors you cannot see will and may end fatal to your more sensitive Cichla’s. Each species has its own range in pH, Water hardness, Ammonia ,Nitrites and Nitrates the basic parameters.
Cichla Ocellaris
Temperature – at small size anywhere from 82-86 bigger sizes (5in+) would be 79-84
Size- 2ft they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in couple months
Tank Size- for a single ocellaris a 200+ would be better but a tank with a larger width than 27in would be better. For schools 2+ go for a 300+
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto.
Breeding- myself, I have never breed ocellaris it is possible but will require talent and you must think like the fish. The standard I have used to try to breed my bass is about ph 7.5 water hardness half soft half tap. I never have ammonia because it is a big risk factor for sensitive fish like peacock bass. (Please add here I’m not to sure about this part)
________________________________________________________________________
Cichla Monoculus
Temperature- at small size a range would be 82-87 they can withstand a little bit more heat then the ocellaris at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 80-84
Size- 2.25ft-2.35ft they grow to max size in 1-2years. But if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger then recommend tank ; in 6-8months.
Tank Size- they will need a bigger tank then ocellaris preferably 240+ for a single mono for groups 350+ they will probably need a bigger then 350 but I don’t think that any 350 has any width less thank 30in correct me if im wrong on this.
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- Tongue there all yours. All I know is that monos can stand 6.5-7.8pH during breeding regular pH is 6.8-7.2
Cichla Orinocensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-90 they can withstand the most heat in the Cichla Family at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-85 or maybe even lower.
Size- 2ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 6-8 months.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 200+ for a single for groups 300+ they will probably need a bigger then 300.
Attitude- very very very aggressive towards spawning this goes for this Cichla. But normal behavior would be aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- there are steps for orino’s one you see that your orinos have paired off take them and place them into there own spawning tank or else they will kill everything in that tank not exaggeration. I have heard that even a 150G will do but I would go 200+ don’t add substrate add a large flat stable rock because I don’t know if this applies to all Cichla or only orinos but they will lay there eggs on the rock raise temp to 84 apply a little AQ salt and wait for nature to take its course. Once eggs are laid wait for 1weeks till they hatch and parents lay off the spawn. Then either remove parents or fry.
Cichla Temensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-87 they can withstand a high amount of heat. At a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-84.
Size- 3ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 1-1.2 years.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 300+ for a single for groups 450+ they will probably need a bigger then 450.
Attitude- to me there not aggressive at all at smaller size I haven’t yet had a problem with one hurting another but as they grew up they teamed on one and would have killed him if I didn’t take him out. They have to be aggressive during spawning but I don’t know anyone who has mastered tem’s.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- I do not know helps me here people.
Well there you have it people what I know on every basic species im not going to go into Azul and Intermedia because I highly doubt a regular peacock bass keeper will run into these without them being a fake or some shenanigan. The people who have these have to be experienced and know what they are doing or else they wouldn’t buy them in the first place.
General Info and Facts
Keep the water chemistry(parameters) at pH 5.5-8 (7.1), 2-20 dH (8), 73-82°F (23-28°C) these are recommended I find them reasonable and use them and haven’t had a problem since. Keeper filtration at double needed amount. Make sure that you don’t overstock, don’t keep fish that are more predatory/aggressive in a tank with peacocks most fish keepers keep peacock bass with payaras and other South American fish. Make sure that you have air in your tank at all times.
Well as you probably know different foods cause different growth rates coloration and even sometimes behavior a peacock bass’s diet is half of its difficulty. There are a variety of foods I have mentioned in my selected species info this is what I listed;
Feeders- try to stay away from goldfish they wont do you much good they only fatten them they don’t add color they aren’t nutritious and just fat and possibly parasites. Some feeders are better then others I have had better luck with guppies feed convicts and mollys/ dainos those are better then goldfish but not really the best.
Krill- better than feeders but harder to get your fish onto at smaller sizes. If your fish don’t attack/eat it at once try soaking it first and then feeding.
Market shrimp- same principles apply as krill but you may want to cut it up and keep if soaked in Fresh water.
Bloodworms- good for smaller bass most of them will eat it and can last through most there lives but as they get bigger increase quantity to the limit they can eat in 3min.
Brine shrimp- same as bloodworms but not as available as a food once they get bigger.
Pellets- my personal idea of the ideal staple diet for pbass but if you mix through this list and add your own foods that I have not listed or hasn’t come to my mind that will be even better.
Beef heart- not the best thing to feed your fish but may work I have never tried so I am not going to add to this.
oh btw farm boys are cool and all but i just think that people that are into harder cichla azuls hybrids intermedia should know a little about what there doing. you know what i mean its like i go buy a ferarri for examble and im a really bad driver 10 accidents a year well youll need to be more experienced to have such a expensive car and not crash it.
ok.. so because my peacock bass may or may not be farm bred they are lesser beings? is that what i'm supposed to take from that comment?
i personally don't think that you started this thread to do anything but fuss with other folks.. no way the powers the be will make a sticky out of young folks arguing over which fish are tougher to care for and whether they copied and pasted good info from other sites.
i personally don't think that you started this thread to do anything but fuss with other folks.. no way the powers the be will make a sticky out of young folks arguing over which fish are tougher to care for and whether they copied and pasted good info from other sites.
okay lets just get this clear if i C/P and your sure i did find it any were other then here and you win my cichla and morledzep's right..
okay morledzep i added yours to mine and would you rather i say your name when even you added something like this -morledzep or at the top of the whole post like this
and many thanks to our helpers ,morledzep and on.
Basic care for Peacock Bass
Peacock bass have always been a loved species of South American cichlid for a long time from the smaller seven stripe Cichla Intermedia to the superior and speckled Cichla Temensis. Peacock bass have had a ranged history in both fishing and in more advanced Section of Fish keepers. Many fish keepers chose to listen to the needs of the fish, other chose to listen to there wallets. Either way some/most people don’t always do as the fish needs, some times simple errors you cannot see will and may end fatal to your more sensitive Cichla’s. Each species has its own range in pH, Water hardness, Ammonia ,Nitrites and Nitrates the basic parameters.
Cichla Ocellaris
Temperature – at small size anywhere from 82-86 bigger sizes (5in+) would be 79-84
Size- 2ft they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in couple months
Tank Size- for a single ocellaris a 200+ would be better but a tank with a larger width than 27in would be better. For schools 2+ go for a 300+
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto.
Breeding- myself, I have never breed ocellaris it is possible but will require talent and you must think like the fish. The standard I have used to try to breed my bass is about ph 7.5 water hardness half soft half tap. I never have ammonia because it is a big risk factor for sensitive fish like peacock bass. (Please add here I’m not to sure about this part)
________________________________________________________________________
Cichla Monoculus
Temperature- at small size a range would be 82-87 they can withstand a little bit more heat then the ocellaris at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 80-84
Size- 2.25ft-2.35ft they grow to max size in 1-2years. But if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger then recommend tank ; in 6-8months.
Tank Size- they will need a bigger tank then ocellaris preferably 240+ for a single mono for groups 350+ they will probably need a bigger then 350 but I don’t think that any 350 has any width less thank 30in correct me if im wrong on this.
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- Tongue there all yours. All I know is that monos can stand 6.5-7.8pH during breeding regular pH is 6.8-7.2
Cichla Orinocensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-90 they can withstand the most heat in the Cichla Family at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-85 or maybe even lower.
Size- 2ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 6-8 months.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 200+ for a single for groups 300+ they will probably need a bigger then 300.
Attitude- very very very aggressive towards spawning this goes for this Cichla. But normal behavior would be aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- there are steps for orino’s one you see that your orinos have paired off take them and place them into there own spawning tank or else they will kill everything in that tank not exaggeration. I have heard that even a 150G will do but I would go 200+ don’t add substrate add a large flat stable rock because I don’t know if this applies to all Cichla or only orinos but they will lay there eggs on the rock raise temp to 84 apply a little AQ salt and wait for nature to take its course. Once eggs are laid wait for 1weeks till they hatch and parents lay off the spawn. Then either remove parents or fry.
Cichla Temensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-87 they can withstand a high amount of heat. At a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-84.
Size- 3ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 1-1.2 years.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 300+ for a single for groups 450+ they will probably need a bigger then 450.
Attitude- to me there not aggressive at all at smaller size I haven’t yet had a problem with one hurting another but as they grew up they teamed on one and would have killed him if I didn’t take him out. They have to be aggressive during spawning but I don’t know anyone who has mastered tem’s.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- I do not know helps me here people.
Well there you have it people what I know on every basic species im not going to go into Azul and Intermedia because I highly doubt a regular peacock bass keeper will run into these without them being a fake or some shenanigan. The people who have these have to be experienced and know what they are doing or else they wouldn’t buy them in the first place.
General Info and Facts
Keep the water chemistry(parameters) at pH 5.5-8 (7.1), 2-20 dH (8) 83-88, 73-82°F these are recommended I find them reasonable and use them and haven’t had a problem since. Keeper filtration at double needed amount. Make sure that you don’t overstock, don’t keep fish that are more predatory/aggressive in a tank with peacocks most fish keepers keep peacock bass with payaras and other South American fish. Make sure that you have air in your tank at all times. do water changes to keep the TDS below 300 PPM and the nitrates at or below 40 PPM.
RO/DI water vs. Tap-
I use RO/DI water for water changes and keep crushed coral under the decorative gravel in the bottom of the tank. I use the gravel vacuum rarely.. and then mostly to only get the crap off the top of the gravel. I have seen people at stores telling others all about how RO/DI is the Bomb and im not saying it isn’t but not for all fish softer water can bother Africans and a variety of fish but seems good for pbass because at there natural environment they are custom to the softer and warmer water that it demands for us fish keepers but you can also be successful with tap water it works but ive got them onto tap buy fish pouring 100% RO/DI water then slowly changing it to tap 10% every 2weeks and buy a couple months there used to the tap.
How to add the necessary minerals lost in RO/DI
_________________________________________
There is crushed coral in the substrate I use, and I keep a minimal amount of salt in most of the tanks. the tanks with plecos has driftwood and all of the tanks get calcium tablets (one) once a month. There are some meds that say they add minerals to your water never a bad idea to try them.
Well as you probably know different foods cause different growth rates coloration and even sometimes behavior a peacock bass’s diet is half of its difficulty. There are a variety of foods I have mentioned in my selected species info this is what I listed;
Feeders- try to stay away from goldfish they wont do you much good they only fatten them they don’t add color they aren’t nutritious and just fat and possibly parasites. Some feeders are better then others I have had better luck with guppies feed convicts and mollys/ dainos those are better then goldfish but not really the best. I believe that feeding live food increases the aggression level in the tank and increases the possibility that they will try to eat each other.
Krill- better than feeders but harder to get your fish onto at smaller sizes. If your fish don’t attack/eat it at once try soaking it first and then feeding. I've never had a fish refuse frozen krill no matter how big they are... it seems to be an all around favorite.
Market shrimp- same principles apply as krill but you may want to cut it up and keep if soaked in Fresh water.
Bloodworms- good for smaller bass most of them will eat it and can last through most there lives but as they get bigger increase quantity to the limit they can eat in 3min. Somewhere around 8" or 9" they start losing interest in the smaller foods (brine shrimp and blood worms).
Brine shrimp- same as bloodworms but not as available as a food once they get bigger. Somewhere around 8" or 9" they start losing interest in the smaller foods (brine shrimp and blood worms).
Pellets- my personal idea of the ideal staple diet for pbass but if you mix through this list and add your own foods that I have not listed or hasn’t come to my mind that will be even better.
Beef heart- not the best thing to feed your fish but may work I have never tried so I am not going to add to this.
Catfish nuggets- at about 5" they start just chopping up market shrimp and catfish nuggets.
I want my peacocks to remain healthy and grow at a natural rate. Add more variety... small hunks of chicken breasts, halved chicken hearts, small hunks of tuna and salmon, small hunks of beef heart... I tried some lean pork one time, but it was a resounding failure.. Not even the catfish would eat it. I've never fed live fish intentionally, but I’ve had a couple cheap community fish that I’ve used to establish a tank gets eaten. This is purely my experience, I’m not a scientist, and all I have is what I’ve learned in the process of raising my fish.
okay morledzep i added yours to mine and would you rather i say your name when even you added something like this -morledzep or at the top of the whole post like this
and many thanks to our helpers ,morledzep and on.
Basic care for Peacock Bass
Peacock bass have always been a loved species of South American cichlid for a long time from the smaller seven stripe Cichla Intermedia to the superior and speckled Cichla Temensis. Peacock bass have had a ranged history in both fishing and in more advanced Section of Fish keepers. Many fish keepers chose to listen to the needs of the fish, other chose to listen to there wallets. Either way some/most people don’t always do as the fish needs, some times simple errors you cannot see will and may end fatal to your more sensitive Cichla’s. Each species has its own range in pH, Water hardness, Ammonia ,Nitrites and Nitrates the basic parameters.
Cichla Ocellaris
Temperature – at small size anywhere from 82-86 bigger sizes (5in+) would be 79-84
Size- 2ft they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in couple months
Tank Size- for a single ocellaris a 200+ would be better but a tank with a larger width than 27in would be better. For schools 2+ go for a 300+
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto.
Breeding- myself, I have never breed ocellaris it is possible but will require talent and you must think like the fish. The standard I have used to try to breed my bass is about ph 7.5 water hardness half soft half tap. I never have ammonia because it is a big risk factor for sensitive fish like peacock bass. (Please add here I’m not to sure about this part)
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Cichla Monoculus
Temperature- at small size a range would be 82-87 they can withstand a little bit more heat then the ocellaris at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 80-84
Size- 2.25ft-2.35ft they grow to max size in 1-2years. But if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger then recommend tank ; in 6-8months.
Tank Size- they will need a bigger tank then ocellaris preferably 240+ for a single mono for groups 350+ they will probably need a bigger then 350 but I don’t think that any 350 has any width less thank 30in correct me if im wrong on this.
Attitude- very aggressive towards spawning this goes for all Cichla no matter what. But normal behavior would be semi-aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- Tongue there all yours. All I know is that monos can stand 6.5-7.8pH during breeding regular pH is 6.8-7.2
Cichla Orinocensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-90 they can withstand the most heat in the Cichla Family at a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-85 or maybe even lower.
Size- 2ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 6-8 months.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 200+ for a single for groups 300+ they will probably need a bigger then 300.
Attitude- very very very aggressive towards spawning this goes for this Cichla. But normal behavior would be aggressive at smaller sizes bigger males might bully smaller bass to stop/ prevent this buy several hiding spots and please don’t ask why this is happing if you have 5+ peacock bass in a 10-20G tank... Though as they mature they will sulk a little making them less aggressive. This goes pretty much for all Cichla.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- there are steps for orino’s one you see that your orinos have paired off take them and place them into there own spawning tank or else they will kill everything in that tank not exaggeration. I have heard that even a 150G will do but I would go 200+ don’t add substrate add a large flat stable rock because I don’t know if this applies to all Cichla or only orinos but they will lay there eggs on the rock raise temp to 84 apply a little AQ salt and wait for nature to take its course. Once eggs are laid wait for 1weeks till they hatch and parents lay off the spawn. Then either remove parents or fry.
Cichla Temensis
Temperature- at small size a range would be 84-87 they can withstand a high amount of heat. At a larger size (5+) they can drop to 82-84.
Size- 3ft maybe a little bit over they hit maximum size within first year if power fed with live foods 20% water changes weekly and in a larger tank ; in 1-1.2 years.
Tank Size- they will need a tank preferably 300+ for a single for groups 450+ they will probably need a bigger then 450.
Attitude- to me there not aggressive at all at smaller size I haven’t yet had a problem with one hurting another but as they grew up they teamed on one and would have killed him if I didn’t take him out. They have to be aggressive during spawning but I don’t know anyone who has mastered tem’s.
Food- they will eat feeders at small sizes. Krill/market shrimp /Bloodworms/brine shrimp/pellets ß gives great coloration and takes you away from the risk of parasites.[ [ [ ] ] ] any how most of the foods I have listed will require little or no training to get onto they may be a little bit harder to switch onto pellets then other Cichla. (Again this is my reference)
Breeding- I do not know helps me here people.
Well there you have it people what I know on every basic species im not going to go into Azul and Intermedia because I highly doubt a regular peacock bass keeper will run into these without them being a fake or some shenanigan. The people who have these have to be experienced and know what they are doing or else they wouldn’t buy them in the first place.
General Info and Facts
Keep the water chemistry(parameters) at pH 5.5-8 (7.1), 2-20 dH (8) 83-88, 73-82°F these are recommended I find them reasonable and use them and haven’t had a problem since. Keeper filtration at double needed amount. Make sure that you don’t overstock, don’t keep fish that are more predatory/aggressive in a tank with peacocks most fish keepers keep peacock bass with payaras and other South American fish. Make sure that you have air in your tank at all times. do water changes to keep the TDS below 300 PPM and the nitrates at or below 40 PPM.
RO/DI water vs. Tap-
I use RO/DI water for water changes and keep crushed coral under the decorative gravel in the bottom of the tank. I use the gravel vacuum rarely.. and then mostly to only get the crap off the top of the gravel. I have seen people at stores telling others all about how RO/DI is the Bomb and im not saying it isn’t but not for all fish softer water can bother Africans and a variety of fish but seems good for pbass because at there natural environment they are custom to the softer and warmer water that it demands for us fish keepers but you can also be successful with tap water it works but ive got them onto tap buy fish pouring 100% RO/DI water then slowly changing it to tap 10% every 2weeks and buy a couple months there used to the tap.
How to add the necessary minerals lost in RO/DI
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There is crushed coral in the substrate I use, and I keep a minimal amount of salt in most of the tanks. the tanks with plecos has driftwood and all of the tanks get calcium tablets (one) once a month. There are some meds that say they add minerals to your water never a bad idea to try them.
Well as you probably know different foods cause different growth rates coloration and even sometimes behavior a peacock bass’s diet is half of its difficulty. There are a variety of foods I have mentioned in my selected species info this is what I listed;
Feeders- try to stay away from goldfish they wont do you much good they only fatten them they don’t add color they aren’t nutritious and just fat and possibly parasites. Some feeders are better then others I have had better luck with guppies feed convicts and mollys/ dainos those are better then goldfish but not really the best. I believe that feeding live food increases the aggression level in the tank and increases the possibility that they will try to eat each other.
Krill- better than feeders but harder to get your fish onto at smaller sizes. If your fish don’t attack/eat it at once try soaking it first and then feeding. I've never had a fish refuse frozen krill no matter how big they are... it seems to be an all around favorite.
Market shrimp- same principles apply as krill but you may want to cut it up and keep if soaked in Fresh water.
Bloodworms- good for smaller bass most of them will eat it and can last through most there lives but as they get bigger increase quantity to the limit they can eat in 3min. Somewhere around 8" or 9" they start losing interest in the smaller foods (brine shrimp and blood worms).
Brine shrimp- same as bloodworms but not as available as a food once they get bigger. Somewhere around 8" or 9" they start losing interest in the smaller foods (brine shrimp and blood worms).
Pellets- my personal idea of the ideal staple diet for pbass but if you mix through this list and add your own foods that I have not listed or hasn’t come to my mind that will be even better.
Beef heart- not the best thing to feed your fish but may work I have never tried so I am not going to add to this.
Catfish nuggets- at about 5" they start just chopping up market shrimp and catfish nuggets.
I want my peacocks to remain healthy and grow at a natural rate. Add more variety... small hunks of chicken breasts, halved chicken hearts, small hunks of tuna and salmon, small hunks of beef heart... I tried some lean pork one time, but it was a resounding failure.. Not even the catfish would eat it. I've never fed live fish intentionally, but I’ve had a couple cheap community fish that I’ve used to establish a tank gets eaten. This is purely my experience, I’m not a scientist, and all I have is what I’ve learned in the process of raising my fish.
lmao.... no need for proof, dont want you to dig yourself a hole now.. wow.. youre so serious... why? do you like being sarcastic to others and cant take the DISH back too you.....? i thought you had a lil bit more humor in you...
anyways its all good!no need for your testostrone to get all BIG/PUMPED
... bro. C/P either way.... i dont care... lol... you definitly deserve your thread to be a sticky... "MODS" clean my post up and hook this braddah up!!!!
because he put forth the effort and wagered his cichla and another MFK fellows, CICHLA..... in return for a StIckY...... so "MoDs" pls COPY & PASTE into the STICKY AREA:
thanx.........,
junior...
(thus far... i did say this thread is decent..)
anyways its all good!no need for your testostrone to get all BIG/PUMPED... bro. C/P either way.... i dont care... lol... you definitly deserve your thread to be a sticky... "MODS" clean my post up and hook this braddah up!!!!because he put forth the effort and wagered his cichla and another MFK fellows, CICHLA..... in return for a StIckY...... so "MoDs" pls COPY & PASTE into the STICKY AREA:
thanx.........,
junior...
(thus far... i did say this thread is decent..
)
lol thx,
sorry to get on the wrong side with ya i just had a bad day. well its my fault you just didnt want a bad info thats kool i get ya. well i hope that were cool now.
but im gonna have to back my info up and then mabey add some more stuff and were set.
sorry to get on the wrong side with ya i just had a bad day. well its my fault you just didnt want a bad info thats kool i get ya. well i hope that were cool now.
but im gonna have to back my info up and then mabey add some more stuff and were set.
