The work starts here. 20ft tank!!

wheatgerm

Plecostomus
MFK Member
May 22, 2010
1,168
7
53
utah
Here's a couple more for fun. Joints seem to be in really good shape. I haven't found any stress signs thus far
uploadfromtaptalk1365798820869.jpg
uploadfromtaptalk1365798847994.jpg

Is anyone an acrylic guru on here that could tell me how risky the 3/8 acrylic is?

I haven't decided on wood or medal for the stand, but I have been considering building an angle iron frame around the tank itself and using flat iron for vertical supports of it would help the strength

Sent from my MB860 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 

burbon44s

Candiru
MFK Member
May 13, 2012
919
1
48
milwaukee
Here's a couple more for fun. Joints seem to be in really good shape. I haven't found any stress signs thus far
View attachment 902545
View attachment 902546



I haven't decided on wood or medal for the stand, but I have been considering building an angle iron frame around the tank itself and using flat iron for vertical supports of it would help the strength

Sent from my MB860 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
This I think is your best bet. An angle iron frame around the the tank , front , bottom , and sides

Sent from my DROID4 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 

coolkeith

Candiru
MFK Member
Nov 1, 2005
403
10
48
52
Detroit
I once had a 160 gallon tank with 3/8 cell cast acrylic that needed to be retired after 4 years. It would of failed eventually, since it developed crazing in some of the seams due to the excessive bowing. The tank was 8 ft long, 2 feet wide, and only 16 inches high.

I would expect a 20 foot tank like that to develop some stress cracks along with crazing in the seams. I don't think there is much you can do about the bowing or the structural integrity of that tank. Acrylic absorbs water and is going to bow no matter what. The thinner the acrylic is, while the longer the length is, the more it's going to bow, and the more the joints will be stressed. I don't think putting angle iron supports around seams would help at all either. A tank that long should probably be using at least 1" thick acrylic to counteract the water absorption. You might get a few years out of it, if you're lucky, but I wouldn't risk it. I'm sorry, but I'd probably get my circular saw out and scrap the thing.
 

wednesday13

Silver Tier VIP
MFK Member
Mar 2, 2008
4,273
3,921
1,629
The deep south
Stress cracks and crazing can all be prevented and fixed with weld on #40 alone. Tanks can also be reinforced on the inside seams with square stock acrylic and weld on #40. Stupid to retire a tank that just needs a little love. I enjoy buying others junk and making it like new, especially with acrylic tanks. Every acrylic tank i own was repaired or refurbed in some way and it saved me a ton of cash. Ive also done alot of acrylic work for other members on here and have 16 acrylic tanks in the field. Like i said before an outer metal frame is unnecessary. You could put the tank behind a wall and use the wall to support the front glass with a couple supports down the front window pane if bowing is really that bad. Acrylic bows on any tank ive ever seen including brand new ones just gotta fatty up ur seams with #40 and itell b fine.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using MonsterAquariaNetwork App
 

Bizarroterl

Feeder Fish
MFK Member
Jul 11, 2006
74
0
0
SJ, CA
I've wanted to build a tank similar to that once I have a place to put it (future remodel project). It just seems to make more sense to go with a long tank instead of some of the monsters in the DIY tank section. The height/depth of this tank allows you to do maintenance without actually diving into the tank. :thumbsup:

I haven't been able to find any guides for how thick the materials in these long tanks should be. In a shorter tank 3/8" would be fine, as the tank isn't very tall. I figured for 18' in glass I'd use 3/4 or 1" but that's just a swag. Definitely angle iron reinforcement would be better than just using it as is.
 
zoomed.com
hikariusa.com
aqaimports.com
Store