Quick question regarding adding Green Terrors to tank, How many at the beginning?!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I think I will have a much easier time removing eggs as opposed to watching the parents eat young fry.

Bolbitis is tricky sometimes. Certain temps can hinder it. I find 75-77 good. I don't dose anything in the tank. I run a long photo period of low par lighting. I make sure all my anubias and bolbitis is low and shaded.

It's a slow growing plant and some leaves do get hacked off once they look bad. But generally the new growth outcompeted and keeps the plant looking good.

Tell me a bit about your setup and make I can spot the problem.
 
I'm pretty sure I know the problem :)

My light is beyond crap, I have a light stock list (granted one fish is a 5ish cm pleco, but..), the tank never has high (30ppm+) nitrate, I have other plants in the tank that grow faster than it, so I assume (I don't claim this as fact, it's just makes sense in my head) they suck up the nutrients before the poor ol' bolbitis can get to it?

I have it in a few places around the tank, one far from the light, one right near the light, and one kinda half way.. All of them sit in places with decent current because I read they enjoy this. The one closer to the light is doing best so I assume my light is very crap and it needs to be at least a little bit better?

I don't dose ferts or co2 or anything like that, its a fish tank with plants in it... Not the other way around. ;)

The reason I asked is because in the next week or so I'm going to be doing an African river tank for r my poor lone syno and would like my bolbitis to add some colour to the scape, and to do that it has to grow well. :D
 
I would get a couple of small plecs, they will get rid of your eggs while the gt's sleep.
I had ancistrus with mine
 
Kittiee Katt said:
I'm pretty sure I know the problem :)

My light is beyond crap, I have a light stock list (granted one fish is a 5ish cm pleco, but..), the tank never has high (30ppm+) nitrate, I have other plants in the tank that grow faster than it, so I assume (I don't claim this as fact, it's just makes sense in my head) they suck up the nutrients before the poor ol' bolbitis can get to it?

I have it in a few places around the tank, one far from the light, one right near the light, and one kinda half way.. All of them sit in places with decent current because I read they enjoy this. The one closer to the light is doing best so I assume my light is very crap and it needs to be at least a little bit better?

I don't dose ferts or co2 or anything like that, its a fish tank with plants in it... Not the other way around. ;)

The reason I asked is because in the next week or so I'm going to be doing an African river tank for r my poor lone syno and would like my bolbitis to add some colour to the scape, and to do that it has to grow well. :D
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Yeah so it's not nutrients, for sure! I change my water frequently and have a light bioload my tank rarely deviates from my tap water. I am sure the lighting is the culprit. It's important to run good spectrum. I used finnex planted plus.

Also what is your temp? How often are you changing water? Do you have good gas exchange? Do you leave the algae covered leaves or dying leaves on the plant? If so it's best to cut back anything other than good growth. I am very aggressive in making sure I don't leave leafs with algae on the plant.
 
http://www.cichlidae.com/species.php?id=4
Stanzzzz7 said:
They are very tolerant of water chemistry I would not worry too much.
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I'd agree with that. GT's are very aquarium strain and will do well in a very wide range of water chemistry, in captivity.


Stanzzzz7 said:
Coming from Ecuador they can be found in very hard water.
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That is not true at all.
I think, some how, Andinoacara rivulatus is being confused or mixed up with Andinoacara stalsbergi. They come from completely different habitats. A. stalsbergi comes from very hard, alkaline water. And often brackish.
A. rivulatus ( the common Green Terror), quite the opposite. http://www.cichlidae.com/species.php?id=4
"The water parameters determined by Stawikoski and Werner were quite uniform ( temperature about 25*, 1-2* less in higher regions; pH about 7; 3* KH; at most 1* dGH ).
"At most 1* dGH" is very, very soft water!
 
Depends on collection point.
Alf stalsberg has collection data from many collection points for a rivulatus ranging from soft to very hard.
 
philipraposo1982 said:
I think I will have a much easier time removing eggs as opposed to watching the parents eat young fry.

Bolbitis is tricky sometimes. Certain temps can hinder it. I find 75-77 good. I don't dose anything in the tank. I run a long photo period of low par lighting. I make sure all my anubias and bolbitis is low and shaded.

It's a slow growing plant and some leaves do get hacked off once they look bad. But generally the new growth outcompeted and keeps the plant looking good.

Tell me a bit about your setup and make I can spot the problem.
Click to expand...
Ime if you keep removing the eggs after 2/3 spawns the male will kill the female, much better to leave the fry in there a bit
 
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