Hi pls help urgent it's beEn 5 days ich not decreasing at all

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
If the tank is currently at 30*c and is not fluctuating, You don't need another heater. I would get just a small thermometer like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Marina-Float...02114841&sr=8-3&keywords=thermometer+aquarium
to see if your temp is correct.
Duanes gave you good advice with the salt and heat, I would advise you follow what he said and it should get better but may take more than a week or two, and your other fish may start to show spots before the ich dies off. Just be patient
 
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2 teaspoons of salt per gallon is the ratio I used to treat my 150 when I had ich. I left my temp where it was at 80F. Just replace what salt you remove at water changes and be patient. Leave water salted for at least a week after all signs of ich are gone. Good luck.
 
Thanks gourami swami u always have such a nice way of giving advice it feels comfortable yeah I'm going to with the salt but just 20 teaspoons at a time every 5 hours want to give my fishes a chance to adapt ok il try and squeeze out the money for a thermometer and maybe for a 200 watt heater or even a 150 to put in the middle of the tank thanks again swami :(:oops:
 
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Rubywee said:
i think i foud the problem up to now i only had 1 300 watts heater in there so i installed a second 300 watts is this enough for my 7 foot tank?
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hello; As others have said you need a thermometer to check the tank temp. No way to know if more heater capacity is needed until the temp is known.

Galantspeedz said:
since not all affected maybe you can try separate them so at least it will not spread?
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Hello; Not likely to work. As others said likely already on other fish.
duanes said:
The only way to cure it, is for all cysts to go thru their life cycle, and the vulnerable stages to become killed by the salt, and/or meds.
Since you cannot raise the temp, the cycle may take weeks to have all protozoa hatch and become vulnerable. The type of meds do not change the times line.
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Hello; the adult spots on the fish do not get killed. The eggs do not get killed. It is the stage just after hatching and before attaching to a fish that can be killed. Takes a while for all the adult parasites to get thru their life span and stop producing eggs. Takes a while for all the eggs to hatch. You do not stop the cycle until you are killing all the free swimming larvae as they hatch. Sounds like you may be in an area where heat may not work for you so well. If this turns out to be the case then chemicals may be the only choice. Seems you need to pick either salt or chemicals and keep the concentration high enough.

I get that you worry about losing fish if the suggested amount of salt is used. May be that you will lose even more fish if you do not? One of the times when there is not a good choice.

post: 7790614, member: 20909"]if ick is in the tank, you must assume all fish are infected[/QUOTE]

duanes said:
this strain of ick, may be resistant to heat, unlike the cool water varieties found in the U.S and Europe.
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Rubywee said:
Thing should I buy one more heater?another 300 watts?
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Hello; get a thermometer.
 
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Today woke up the spots are gone hopefully the meds and salt do their job
 
Yup thats the plan been putting ocean free white spot special and so far ive added 230 teaspoons of salt total
 
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