Yep I remember my first time with Ich i ended up having to treat for over a month because I saw no spots and thought all was well and a few days later they were all covered again.
Hi pls help urgent it's beEn 5 days ich not decreasing at all
- Thread starter Rubywee
- Start date
I might be missing something but a 300 watt heater seems to be way too small for a 300+ gallon aquarium. I had 1 300 watt on my 75 (with 40 gallon breeder sump so roughly 100 gallon system) and it wouldn't raise my temp past 78°. I had to add an additional 300 watt heater to get it to the 84° that I keep my black nasties at. There is a chance that even tho your heater is set at 30° C it isn't actually at 30° C and could very possibly be keeping the aquarium too cool. The stress from the tank being too cool could possibly be the cause of the ich outbreak (theory don't kill me 
). Not to beat a dead horse but you really really need a thermometer. You might be seriously over working your heater. If I remember correctly the general rule is 3 watts per gallon.
). Not to beat a dead horse but you really really need a thermometer. You might be seriously over working your heater. If I remember correctly the general rule is 3 watts per gallon.Hello; I do not know if OCEAN FREE WHITE SPOT SPECIAL will kill any fish. I have never used it.
I also do not know if using both SALT and OCEAN FREE WHITE SPOT SPECIAL at the same time will harm some fish. I think you are trying something few of us have any experience with by using both together.
About the salt. It does not leave the water with evaporation, but some salt will need to be replaced after a water change to keep the concentration at a sufficient level.
About the heater question, How much heater needed will depend on a few things. For example right now it is summer here in Tennessee USA. All my heaters are unplugged. in a few months I will need heaters. If you live in a warm place not much heater power is needed. Just enough to get the temperatures above what the surrounding air temp is. If the air temp is 27 degrees C and you want to have the tank at 30 degrees C then the heater only needs to do enough to make up 3 degrees C. If the air temp is 20 degrees C then the heater must work harder to make up 10 degrees.
OK I THINK IL JUST ADD HALF THE RECOMENDED DOSE OF THE MEDS NOW THAT THE SPOTS ARE GONE BUT KEEP ADDING SALT TILL I REACH 300 TEASPOON IS TAHT RIGHT JEFF IS IT ENOUGH FOR 327G? WILL STEP UP WATER CHANGE 10% AT NOON 10% AT NIGHT TO VACCUM THE SUBSTRATE HOPEFULLY NO SECODARY INFECTION IM STRESSED ENOUGH ALREADY IT TOOK ME 5 MONTHS TO COMPLETE MY SOUTH AMERICAN TANK 
WE R IN THE PHILLIPINES SO ROOM TEMP AT THE AVERAGE IS 27.7 CELSIUS
WE R IN THE PHILLIPINES SO ROOM TEMP AT THE AVERAGE IS 27.7 CELSIUSHello; No this does not seem correct. That the spots are gone from the fish is a good start, but there still may be some eggs yet to hatch out.
The idea is to keep the level of meds at a toxic level for the newly hatched parasites but under a problem level for the fish. The way I read your comment is you do not yet have the suggested amount of salt concentration which will kill the swimming parasites.
You stated a while back that you were adding the salt a little at a time. This approach seems wrong because the salt will not be strong enough to kill the parasite and may be extending the salt bath time and the salts effects on the fish to no useful purpose.
Now you plan to reduce the concentration of the other MEDICATION, which may be the only thing killing the swimming parasites. I do not follow the reasoning about this.
Hello; So your current heater may be plenty strong enough to heat up the water around 2.3 degrees C.
Question - Do you have a thermometer?
Question - If you do not have a thermometer, are you depending on a setting on the heater to guess at the actual water temperature?
Hello; To your question about how many days, I went back thru this thread and copied some quotes. These quotes are from forum members who have answered the question as best as is possible. Perhaps another look at some of the comments will help. I cannot tell you for sure how many days it will take.Oh ok I need to step up the meds instead of reducing how many days do u think before they hatch sorry about my flawed reasoning just afraid of over dosing my fish
The common strategy is to raise the water temperature because the warmer water causes the parasite eggs to hatch sooner. It is still not clear to me from your posts if you have actually raised the temperature. I do not think in Celsius and am not sure 30 C is warm enough.
Add to this the very likely possibility you have a strain of the parasite that is not killed by the warmer water.
I get that you are afraid of hurting the fish. That is often the dilemma when our fish get sick. The possibility of harm from medications is real. The ich parasite will hurt the fish for sure.
Taking half measures with which ever treatment method you decide to use has the worst of both problems. You take the chance of some harm from the medications while at the same time not having the concentration of the medications at a strong enough level to do the job.
In the end we each get to run our tanks any way we wish. We here on this forum cannot make these final decisions for you. There are also often big differences of opinion among the forum members on the same question. I do not know how to help you decide who to pay attention to. I will say that duanes has impressed me over the last few years and I always take his comments as being worth serious consideration.
Good luck
