48x48 Workhorse "The Rig"

JK47 · Apr 2, 2018

nzafi said:
JK47 bit confused. How many returns and intakes you going to have? I see the braided line but don't understand what its purpose as a return is for? Your overflows each have two intakes and then you will use powerheads to "return" water out of them. I think I see 4 returns coming through the top of the tank, so what are the returns in the towers?

There are two 1.5" intakes and two 3/4" returns. The returns on the top most likely be used on one of the other 6x3's since they are obsolete on this tank now.

I changed my mind multiple times and in the end decided returns going up and over were adding a couple feet of head height and not bringing any value vs plumbing them up through the tower.

JK47 · Apr 3, 2018

Intakes are finished.

Keeping level while working behind the tank is freakin hard! I had to move one of my cameras to zoom in on the level, tape my phone to the wall just to see the bubble... that’s a first

The intake is done from tank to pump. I have to pick up some pipe dope tomorrow and will finish the pump.

The plan is to plumb the Ultima and leak test it tomorrow night. Then I have Wed-Mon off and my boy has no school so we’ll be done soon

nzafi · Apr 3, 2018

Stupid question but do you place unions before your ball valves? I am starting to think about plumbing and trying to figure out how many unions and where I should use them. Definitely want a ball valve with every intake and return to help me control flow.

JK47 · Apr 3, 2018

nzafi said:
Stupid question but do you place unions before your ball valves? I am starting to think about plumbing and trying to figure out how many unions and where I should use them. Definitely want a ball valve with every intake and return to help me control flow.

In the above pics there are two unions in the back wall so the tank can be removed without the plumbing effected. Those lead to two union ball valves (red handles) placed below that so that I can control each line independently. That leads down to a 1.5" wye stepped up to 2", followed by another union ball valve in 2". That lets me remove the wye or the pump without touching the tank or cutting plumbing.

The proper way to use unions is to place them so that all plumbing can be disassembled and reassembled without cutting. Having said that it's personal preference. 9 out of 10 setups I see dont do this and work just as well, once..

JK47 · Apr 3, 2018

N nzafi &

mrrobxc you both are using Reeflo pumps for your Ultima correct? If so, this may help save you some pain

Do not use plumbers tape on the in/out of the Reeflo pump. They recommend using thread sealant and and hand tight or you can easily crack the housing. Use this stuff:

Don’t use a nipple like this unless you absolutely have to. It’s incredibly hard to make right. Use a slip x thread adapter.

If you do, Home Depot has rubber spacers to step 1.5” up to 2”. It makes a nice sleeve to hold onto without damaging the threads.

^ that’s what you’re after. It should be used rather thick. A nice bead at the top isn’t needed but if you let that sit for 24 hours it’s sure not to leak.

Chasing leaks suuuuuuucks.. good luck gents

JK47 · Apr 4, 2018

Change of plans. In order to keep the third vertical evenly spaced and level, I’m going to use the returns to hold it in place.

A free floating, heavy, union ball valve is next to impossible to keep squared up

This is the tee to reduce from 1.5” return down to dual 1” lines via slip reducer bushings and unions (bushing gap matches the wye, union nut matches the pump unions). N nzafi you had asked about this piece, see below

This by far the hardest plumbing design I’ve ever tried to keep straight. I have to admit my boy and I are pretty damn proud of this so far.

JK47 · Apr 4, 2018

Switching to the returns made setting that last vertical just what we needed.

Took longer than expected but it’s solvent welded in place and super clean

JK47 · Apr 5, 2018

mrrobxc & N nzafi you guys should both rewrap the unions on your Ultima with better tape. The manufacturer wrap looks like it’s good but odds are good you’ll have a pinhole leak. Quality tape prevents that:

You can see how little wrap is left on the fitting when removed. That seated all the way down, guaranteed leaker..

I use nearly the entire roll per union. About 80%. It seems excessive but it isn’t, the thread on the valve head are large. More so than a standard fitting.

Make sure you don’t make the tape super thick at the first few threads. You don’t don’t want to strip it. I like to see three threads then get much thicker