Good lookin out on the 1/2” bulkheads, I didn’t know some were like that. If you want my source LMK but sounds like you’re all good. They have the inner lip.
530g Tank Setup and Plumbing Help :)
- Thread starter nzafi
- Start date
Good lookin out on the 1/2” bulkheads, I didn’t know some were like that. If you want my source LMK but sounds like you’re all good. They have the inner lip.
Next update. I have welded pretty much everything in the picture except the 1/2in drains. I just cut these. You can see the come from both sides of the tank and then lead towards a hole in the wall as these are for my drip system. I’ve added some unions but undecided if I will add a union right before going through the wall.
Thoughts?
View attachment 1322241
Always use a bulkhead when going through a wall. Also this is very important: you want the pvc to sag a little for the drip. Leave a bit of slack on the support straps so that both lines have a downhill slant to the tee. Perfectly horizontal or worse, the pipe sagging lower than the tee will cause a vapor lock and block the drip from exiting.
Drip will overflow the tank if that happens.
I’m out of bulkheads
maybe I just leave the drip to be finalized next week. I was planning to use a 1.5in desk grommet this way I have space to run the return drip into the tank from the same hole.Didn’t know that about the air, but I was thinking of doing a purposeful “sag” to the pipe to make sure the water is always going downwards.
Another piece I am rethinking. I don’t think I want to do powerheads did the hmf. The low watts is great but the powerful magnets I got look weird outside the tank, I’m not a 100% on them holding steady, tank in the corner makes a magnet outside the tank a pain, when a backflush I need to turn them off due to water level, and the piping to drive the stream of water through the sponge is wonky. I think an Eheim compacton 3000 fits addresses all the issues I stated but requires 55 Watts each to run
JK47
you actually have me worried now. I feel like it’s hard to guarantee a sag. The unions actually make it worse. If I did not have unions there would be a nice sag. I added the unions convenience but put them where I did because I was worried too much sag would put pressure on the bulkheads.
You’re good, just make sure to use straps or support the line somehow. That’s a nice way to control how you want the incline. 1/2” will sag more so than other diameter pipe because of the material wall thickness.
Are you saying I should get rid of the unions so I ensure a nice sag?
Can I turn filters on two hours after using pvc cement? I think I want to get this tank up and running. I will close the valves to the drip drain, and get the hmf installed next week. This way I can leak test tomorrow potentially and get my fish into the tank.
Btw, when leak testing it, can I just add silicone to leaking joints? Like what are the typical steps for fixing leaks?
I’m praying no bulkheads are leaking, and I know the reeflos have been a pain point for many people. Hopefully no leaks with any pvc.
I’m praying no bulkheads are leaking, and I know the reeflos have been a pain point for many people. Hopefully no leaks with any pvc.
Your lines are just fine. Once they are full you can tinker around and find the downhill sweet spot your happy with.
Leaks aren’t really common with slip unless there is too much stress on a freshly cemented fitting/pipe. 90% of pinhole leaks stop on their own after a few days. If a bad leak you can cut out a short section and redo that part. I doubt you’ll have any.
I actually think your Reeflo is dialed. You used enough to not have a problem day one.
Your plumbing is turning out nicely. Just a thought, if you are concerned about ensuring a downward flow, how about using 45* connectors (after the ball valve) on the vertical pipe on each side rather than the 90*. You won't have the "parallel pipe with the floor look", but they will both be symmetrical and you will definitely have a slope to ensure water flows downward.
