Appreciate the advice. I had considered a test run but dont really have a use for any other tanks or the money for extra material at this time. I believe the sheets i am buying are milled smooth already, but if theyre not i suppose i will have to find a machine shop.I had 3 tanks in the past of similar dimensions you are doing. One was 84x30x48” tall, the other two were 96x24x48” tall. The one 96” tank was made from 1.5” the other 1.25”. The 1.25” bowed a few inches from top to bottom. The 84” tank had a similar bow and was built with 1” sides, 1.25” front and back. All tanks used a 3/4” bottom and top continuous brace. They have been water tight for 10+ years now. Go with a full top.
Remember that once half that tank is built it will be around the same weight as a 300 gallon glass tank. Make sure you have lots of help.
If you do a solvent seam then the panels basically becomes one solid piece as mentioned. You mentioned the use of weldon 40 which is a two part polymerizing cement. This does not chemically bond the panels. Weldon 40 cures almost 3x stronger than a solvent seam but can be difficult to prep. A gap between panels or a 5 degree angle cut on the bonded edge is often required for ideal bonding. If not, much of the “cement” will be pushed out of the seam due to the weight of the panel.
Please do not “sand” the edges of the pieces. This will cause an uneven surface in the acrylic. Get the acrylic CNC router cut to the exact dimensions you want. The CNC cut edge will be ready for bonding without any edge prep (unless they have machine set incorrectly). Personally I pay $50/cut sheet of acrylic and it’s worth every penny.
I strongly suggest doing a practice tank first. Could be a lot of wasted money.
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Would that 5 degree fillet cut be all the way through the sheet or just partially? How thick should the gap be? Couple millimeters?