So I have about 8x4x2 foot tank.. real quick question maybe somebody can have an answer, would it be worth it too have a water line constantly trickling water into the tank and another line trickling water out?? Almost like a automated water change system but not so involved since I'm not plumbing handy like that. Woukd that be worth even doing? Or would trickle of new water into that tank not even be worth it with how much water volume I have ? Hope this all makes sense
300+ gallon water drip question
- Thread starter Nyrkorey
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That's a great question. Ide say ide like too be able to get old water out and new water in whenever I can, obviously on top of water changes but some times life get busy and miss a water change so atleast there's a buffer of some old water/nitrates getting pulled out and new water put back in
I have a continuous flush (water change) system in my 110 stock tank with a turtle and plan to do so in the 1,000+ gallon tank I build for them. I used a name brand under sink filter with good certs for the water trickling in.
Haven't done manual a water change in the 2½ years it's been running. I'd never run a freshwater tank again without plumbing one.
Haven't done manual a water change in the 2½ years it's been running. I'd never run a freshwater tank again without plumbing one.
May I ask is it a complete water change system ? Or like a drip? I wish I new how to run all that pipe for an automated water change system. Or find someone in NJ who can but I wouldn't even know where to turn or begin
The plumbing isn't too hard as long as you don't have to deal with copper piping. Drilling the tank for the drain can be more difficult, especially if it has tempered glass.
I believe by "complete" you mean a water holding tank that then gets drained to your fish tank? Mine just is drip but then I don't have to ever think about it, aside from filter water changes. It's currently just cold water from under a bathroom sink split off to an under sink filter and then to a small bulkhead above the water line of a stock tank. Then there is a drain that comes out and down a pipe to the bathroom sink. The turtle is taking up an entire half bath until we build the indoor pond for her.
When running plumbing to a space, the supply is easy but drain can be difficult. House drains have vents and the pipes have to be at specific angles that are up to your local code. I'd consider just getting a plumber to do it if you don't have a sink or washing machine drain on the other side of the tank wall. I think it's about couple hundred USD unless a huge distance, which would make the total cost maybe $250 or so with the filter. I think that's easily worth not having to worry about water changes. I just made a calendar event that pings me every 6 months to change the filter.
I used a bulkhead like this for the supply water to make sure the tubing didn't go fall (bulkhead was cleanest way to do it) and then for the drain I used a larger one. You want the large one to be slip x slip which means you can glue a PVC pipe into it instead of relying on threads and worrying about them leaking.
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So im getting another tank made for me, a other 8x4x2 acrylic. I was thinking about getting it drilled but idk measurements. How far too go down for both the holes. So your drip system is constantly running? So its constantly dripping water out as well at the same rate dripped water in? So my tank is in my finished basement and my slop room is across the room. So I would have no problem paying someone to do that plumbing. It's just explaining too them what needs too be done I would get confused a little about. How do you control how much water comes out? But for me even if the tank is drilled since I'm going across the room wouldn't I need a pump to push the old water across too the sink
You use a valve like this on the drip to change the amount. You may need a slightly different size just like with the bulkhead. It will need to be after the filter so that the filter always has full pressure, and any clog in the filter (unless it's completely) doesn't slow the water supply. This must be ABOVE the water line. If it is not and your house loses water pressure, you'll contaminate your drinking water as tank water slowly gets siphoned back in.
The drain is below the water line (obviously). I then put a 90 degree elbow pointed up and its tip is at the water line. I suppose you don't need the elbow, but with both I'd think about getting a strainer like this if you have any fish that could fit into the pipe. Just make sure if doesn't start to clog. You could put in two drains just in case if you want to be extra cautious. In that case, have one slightly above the water line as an emergency. That way it won't develop algae or anything else blocking it at the same rate as the other, and then when the water rises a bit to drain through the second, you'll know the first is clogged.
The water automatically balances itself with gravity. Water comes in then as the tank level rises, the water reaches the drain and exits with gravity to your sewers. This is how sumps work too. There's one pump sending water up and it automatically comes down with gravity, since keeping two pumps in exact sync would be impossible in the long term.
The only other big concern is if you have a septic system instead of city sewage. It's possible you'd overflow it as I know that's possible, but I'm not an expert on them and have never even lived with one. Another concern is water contamination during flooding so if you have a hurricane, you probably want to shut it off in case the city sewage floods into water supply. I'm fortunate enough to not have to worry about that one either.
This is all starting to make sense now. The supply bulkhead right would need to be above the highest point of the return bulkhead. That all is making sense now. Since once it gets too much water it just travels down the outlet bulkhead and continues.. now for supple if you come straight off your main water lines, and you say it just drips in, on that bulkhead do you have a really small tube attached too it? Bc you couldn't just leave that return bulk head just wide open bc then you couldn't attach the drip adjuster per say.
Also do you have a measurement you go by for how far down you like that return bulkhead/hole? ..
Do you have a photo of your setup? I’m putting a large tank up and it’s going to be right next to a drain run and just on the opposite side of a wall to a utility room with water lines - so it’s in exactly the right location to plumb - I just can’t visualize exactly how it would work.