300+ gallon water drip question

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Do you have a photo of your setup? I’m putting a large tank up and it’s going to be right next to a drain run and just on the opposite side of a wall to a utility room with water lines - so it’s in exactly the right location to plumb - I just can’t visualize exactly how it would work.
I can take a pic before the turtle goes to sleep tomorrow. It's not pretty since I did it in a rush during a move. I expected it to be there for a year and then have had other projects I had to work on in the house (it was a rental).

This is all starting to make sense now. The supply bulkhead right would need to be above the highest point of the return bulkhead. That all is making sense now. Since once it gets too much water it just travels down the outlet bulkhead and continues.. now for supple if you come straight off your main water lines, and you say it just drips in, on that bulkhead do you have a really small tube attached too it? Bc you couldn't just leave that return bulk head just wide open bc then you couldn't attach the drip adjuster per say.

Also do you have a measurement you go by for how far down you like that return bulkhead/hole? ..
Yeah under sink filters have something like a ⅜ or ⅝ tube coming out of them so that bulkhead is quite small. If by return you mean the supply line then that should be as high as possible. I also made the drain as high as possible, which still is lower since it's a much larger hole than the supply tubing. You want it high in case of a leak. Better to leak a couple of inches worth of tank water than to lose half your water height onto the floor.
 
I can take a pic before the turtle goes to sleep tomorrow. It's not pretty since I did it in a rush during a move. I expected it to be there for a year and then have had other projects I had to work on in the house (it was a rental).


Yeah under sink filters have something like a ⅜ or ⅝ tube coming out of them so that bulkhead is quite small. If by return you mean the supply line then that should be as high as possible. I also made the drain as high as possible, which still is lower since it's a much larger hole than the supply tubing. You want it high in case of a leak. Better to leak a couple of inches worth of tank water than to lose half your water height onto the floor.
Ok awesome, I kidna actually have a sense of what too do now. Which I credit all too you.. my drain, im able too come out that bulk head and run a line straight outside so the water drains outside which ima do.. and for my return.. I'm going too T off of my existing water lines.. then add a filter in-line then coming out that filter would be small tubing and just matxh that small tubing too the correct size bulkhead for the drip.. sound all correct basically...
As for your "drip" is it actually drips of water or a very faint flow out of that flow adjuster
 
If you have a sump, you can get the water out from you sump instead of drilling another hole in the tank

View attachment 1535104

View attachment 1535105
So you’re T’d off your cold water line, then to a gauge (what are the gauges for?) then through triple filtration, then up and through the wall to your aquarium? And you keep a slow-flow cold water trickle going all day into the fish tank.

Then, somewhere on the tank, you have a separate drilled hole with an overflow standpipe that drains water from the tank into your sewer system?

Three questions:

How do you know the ideal flow rate for the water going into the tank?

And also, is it noisy at all - either the supply or the drain overflow?

Are you hard plumbed into the sewer stack? If so, is there any risk of sewer backup into your tank, or gasses coming back up the pipe?
 
So I have about 8x4x2 foot tank.. real quick question maybe somebody can have an answer, would it be worth it too have a water line constantly trickling water into the tank and another line trickling water out?? Almost like a automated water change system but not so involved since I'm not plumbing handy like that. Woukd that be worth even doing? Or would trickle of new water into that tank not even be worth it with how much water volume I have ? Hope this all makes sense
 
So you’re T’d off your cold water line, then to a gauge (what are the gauges for?) then through triple filtration, then up and through the wall to your aquarium? And you keep a slow-flow cold water trickle going all day into the fish tank.

Then, somewhere on the tank, you have a separate drilled hole with an overflow standpipe that drains water from the tank into your sewer system?

Three questions:

How do you know the ideal flow rate for the water going into the tank?

And also, is it noisy at all - either the supply or the drain overflow?

Are you hard plumbed into the sewer stack? If so, is there any risk of sewer backup into your tank, or gasses coming back up the pipe?
My setup, if not pretty, is functionnal. The gauges before is to monitor water pressure, the gauge after will drop when the sediment filter starts to clog.

The two other filters are carbon filters. I put the new one on the end. So if the first one gets full, the second one will take it's place and no chlorine will get in the tank. After 8 months to a year, I take the "new" one on the end, put it first in line and put a new one at the end.

Most people will drip 2-3 gph, I can't go that slow with my setup. It's too rudimentary. I don't pay for water.

No noise at all, not from the supply nor the drain.

My drain goes into a pit with a sump pump. There is water at the bottom of the pit so gases can't come back up the pipe


The drain is in my sump
20240207_180915.jpg
 
My setup, if not pretty, is functionnal. The gauges before is to monitor water pressure, the gauge after will drop when the sediment filter starts to clog.

The two other filters are carbon filters. I put the new one on the end. So if the first one gets full, the second one will take it's place and no chlorine will get in the tank. After 8 months to a year, I take the "new" one on the end, put it first in line and put a new one at the end.

Most people will drip 2-3 gph, I can't go that slow with my setup. It's too rudimentary. I don't pay for water.

No noise at all, not from the supply nor the drain.

My drain goes into a pit with a sump pump. There is water at the bottom of the pit so gases can't come back up the pipe


The drain is in my sump
View attachment 1535141
My setup, if not pretty, is functionnal. The gauges before is to monitor water pressure, the gauge after will drop when the sediment filter starts to clog.

The two other filters are carbon filters. I put the new one on the end. So if the first one gets full, the second one will take it's place and no chlorine will get in the tank. After 8 months to a year, I take the "new" one on the end, put it first in line and put a new one at the end.

Most people will drip 2-3 gph, I can't go that slow with my setup. It's too rudimentary. I don't pay for water.

No noise at all, not from the supply nor the drain.

My drain goes into a pit with a sump pump. There is water at the bottom of the pit so gases can't come back up the pipe


The drain is in my sump
View attachment 1535141

Thanks for the response; this is great info. I actually am hoping for a similar setup - through the wall behind my tank into the utility room, so aesthetics doesn’t matter much for me, either.

At first, I was considering draining direct to the sewer line - but I also have a sump pit nearby, so maybe I’ll just drain there just like you are. Have you had any issues with the sump pump getting clogged by tank detritus?
 
Do you have a photo of your setup? I’m putting a large tank up and it’s going to be right next to a drain run and just on the opposite side of a wall to a utility room with water lines - so it’s in exactly the right location to plumb - I just can’t visualize exactly how it would work.
I meant to take these earlier but life got in the way. I'd like to remind people that this is something I set up during a move as a temporary solution, so it's not pretty lol

I removed the cold water line going to the sink faucet since I wouldn't be using it. You can easily find a tee that would allow you to have both connected at once. I'll add an youtube video at the end for how to install an under sink kitchen filter, which might make it more clear. It probably goes without saying, but make sure to turn off the water before doing this. You'll want to not only twist that valve shut, you'll then want to run the cold water in the sink to drain as much water as you can that's still in the pipe (you won't be getting it all so be prepared for it to come out).

20240209_124833.png

The flexible tubing the filter kit came with goes up to the filter in... the sink. I didn't care how it looked and there actually is a wall mount that it came with, but since this isn't where the filter is staying long term, I didn't bother.
20240209_131447.png

it comes out and into the tank as a very slow stream here. I never measured how much I'm actually using, I just made sure the water is stable and the water bill isn't very high still (I live in an area with plenty of rain and water).
20240209_124717.png


The water then goes down this elbow and back into the sink.
20240209_124752.png

There should be an air gap in the drain so it doesn't siphon. In my case, the pipe just stops a little bit above the sink and the water falls into it. If connecting to a laundry machine drain, there should be an open tube that you can then have the pipe somehow drain into. The siphon concern is why the laundry drain is open. If you plumb to a sink drain in a hidden fashion, you'll have to have a PVC tee at the dry (back) end of your tank with an open top, so that there is air getting in. Just make sure it goes to the sink's plumbing before the trap because this pool of water in the plumbing prevents sewer gases from coming up and out. Also, I added a PVC union so I could take it apart if there ever was an issue.
20240209_131511.png

I have the fresh water on the opposite side of the drain so that it doesn't just drain the good stuff.
20240209_124710.png

I only skimmed through this video but I think it should be enough to give you an idea. Obviously you won't be drilling through the sink top for this so you can skip through that part.
 
Looking again, I think that faucet in the video has both unfiltered and filtered water. Don't be confused by the amount of pipes there are. You just go water valve to a tee to the filter and then the tank bulkhead.
 
Outstanding thread, lots of terrific info here. I would sell a kidney...not necessarily mine!...to be able to do a constant flow-through system like this; I had one in a previous home and it was the ultimate luxury, as well as the best possible way to maintain stability in my tank water.

I can't do it now, for a couple of reasons which I will outline here in case they apply to the OP's set-up as well. A house that is connected to a municipal sewer system is perfect for this technique, as the waste water can simply go "down the drain" without any concerns. My rural home is not connected to sewers; I have a septic system in which waste water is pumped out of a buried collection tank similar to a septic tank, and ejected into a nearby field on my own land. There is no way I would want an additional load of several hundred gallons of water every week to tax my sewage pump and the rest of the system. If a rural home is utilizing the much more common septic-tank/weeping-tile-bed system, it's even more important not to pump unnecessarily large volumes of water into it. Such a system has a finite life and is very expensive to dig up and replace once that life has expired.

So if the OP isn't on a municipal sewer line, it calls for another method of waste water disposal. In warm weather, one can use a buried line leading to a nearby field or other area that accept the drainage; easy peasy. That requires a downhill slope to utilize gravity; in a very flat area, a pump would be needed to move the water away from the house, which in turn means a large collection container equipped with a float switch to turn that pump on and off as the container fills.

I know what you're thinking: I'll just use my basement floor sump and sump pump! Well, you can...but that means that your sump pump will be cycling on and off all year round, and this becomes a problem in cold winter weather. In my area, if I tried that, the pipe leading from the house to the drainage area will freeze solid, causing blockages, interior floods and other unpleasantness. This becomes even more problematic in my case as the terrain in my area is flat as a pancake, so no downhill slopes to help carry the water away and keep the pipe empty.

The greater the water volume we are talking about, the more extreme the difficulties. I want a minimum 100% water change every week; that's 800-900 gallons per week, which is in most areas far too much to just dump on your grass or into your garden. You need a decent-sized fallow field at the least to handle that, and it needs to be a fair distance from your house. Even a much smaller volume can cause problems too close to the building...unintended skating rinks in winter, thawing into extensive swamps when spring comes.

The end of the waste water pipe needs to be screened off to prevent it use as an entry point by critters as well.

If the OP is hooked up to a sewer system, none of this is a concern. I would have a constant flow system in a heartbeat if I had that opportunity. But if not, or if others are reading and thinking about such a system, it's important to think through all the details before proceeding. :)
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com