220g filtration plumbing?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
I'm also trying to decide if I really need the 3,000gph on this tank... Its going to have several stingrays, several gar, several SA cichlids, and at least one indo dat.

Should I look into a slightly less powerful pump, and save this one for a larger build in the future?
 
Im setting up a tank with the same dimensions and I went with a mag 24, I feel that with gars that like to hover, they will be blown around with too much current. This is just my opinion.
 
I suppose I could try something different from the under sand jets... I'll have 2 or 3 3/4" outlets (with double hose outlets on each) coming out of the overflow, and then at the opposite end of the tank, I will drill a hole for a 3/4" bulkhead, then have a 90* elbow, and have the elbow stand just high enough to be above the sand. That way I get water flow from the opposite end of the tank from the overflows without having to run pipes the whole length of the tank. What do you guys think of doing that?

Here's a crude drawing of the tank set up like what I explained:

jet setup.jpg
 
Guess, what, I've changed my idea again. I've decided that to make things simpler, I'm not going to be running the return lines back up into the overflow. I'm going to drill 3 holes at the opposite end of the tank, in the bottom. These will be fitted with 3/4" bulkheads. There will be either 90* elbows, or 45* elbows placed on the bulkheads, to angle the water flow towards the overflow at the other end of the tank.

The current 3/4" bulkhead that is in the overflow chamber, will either be plugged or removed.

This way, I can just make a simple manifold inside the stand, run the pump to the manifold, and then run 3 sections of 3/4" tubing to the bulkheads.

This will also provide a directional current in the tank, and hopefully will be enough flow to keep most detritus suspended. If not, I will add a powerhead or two next to the overflows, where they'll be partially hidden.

What do you guys think of this idea? Here's an illustration:

jet setup.jpg
 
Awesome

simple and very functional
 
Got the filter sock filtration setup started. I just need to turn this little plate thingy the socks are hanging from into a box, in case water overflows the socks. Do you think 4x 100 micron filter socks will be good enough on a 220g tank :naughty:?

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So... you're going to drill holes in teh bottom of the tank... put bulkhead fittings in the hole... have the return lines from the sump feed into those bulkhead fittings... then have 90s or 45s plugged into the top side of those bulkhead fittings...

That is putting A LOT of faith in your one way valves... Far more than I'd be comfortable with...


I'm sure you've heard my schpeel about the importance of mechanical filtration in sumps and how they make biological filtration more efficient, so I won't go into to much detail...

But if your 100 micron socks get plugged up and overflow they will flood your bio media (or whatever media comes next) with physical waste. I just think using socks alone as mechanical filtration is too skimpy...
 
nc_nutcase;4015868; said:
So... you're going to drill holes in teh bottom of the tank... put bulkhead fittings in the hole... have the return lines from the sump feed into those bulkhead fittings... then have 90s or 45s plugged into the top side of those bulkhead fittings...

That is putting A LOT of faith in your one way valves... Far more than I'd be comfortable with...


I'm sure you've heard my schpeel about the importance of mechanical filtration in sumps and how they make biological filtration more efficient, so I won't go into to much detail...

But if your 100 micron socks get plugged up and overflow they will flood your bio media (or whatever media comes next) with physical waste. I just think using socks alone as mechanical filtration is too skimpy...


I won't be the first to plumb through the bottom of the tank. As long as the plumbing is done correctly, then there's nothing to worry about. I haven't decided if I'll use 1x 1.5" check valve, or 3x 3/4" check valve right under the tank.

I used a check valve on my pond bog build, its on a 2" line, and is holding back more than 350g of water without issue.

I know we've gone back and forth about mechanical. I'm thinking about adding in an extra bulkhead between the socks and the biomeda, so that I can force the water to go through a layer of sponges, even if it overflows the socks. I've still got to figure that out. I'm just kind of set on using the micron socks, because I've got 10 of them sitting around, and they do such a good job of polishing the water if they're maintained properly.

I'm thinking that I'll have a valve placed before each drain line from the overflows splits into two, so that I can shut off each pair of filter socks even if the pump is still running. That would simplify removing the socks for maintenance.

If you have a better sump design for a 36x18x18 sump, let me see it. I can still be persuaded to change the design...
 
I'd also rather have the return outlets near the bottom, rather than near the top, for the simple fact of hiding as much of the plumbing as I can. I'm not going to run pvc/tubing up the inside or outside of the tank on the wall opposite the overflow, so this is really the only way to plumb it...
 
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