300ish Gallon plywood - First attempt

[john73738]

Nice Progress,

Probabily said already but what plywood are you using??? The article I read said to use exterior grade but that will not sand well to stain.

My project needs to come out a work of art so my wife will let me build a monster version.

Bear

 

[Muni]

Nice Progress,

Probabily said already but what plywood are you using??? The article I read said to use exterior grade but that will not sand well to stain.

My project needs to come out a work of art so my wife will let me build a monster version.

Bear

I've been using Birch Plywood. It's can take stain well and will look great but I'm painting it with a water and UV resistant paint I have so it just gives me a nice smooth surface to work with.

I have 1/4 and 1/2" birch ply on the Stand.

The tank itself is 7 ply Cabinet grade Birch. The stuff at home depot is only 5 Ply and not as strong.


To the guy that asked about the paint. It's meant for concrete pools but the tech sheets say it will cover 300 square feet with a 2 mil thickness from 1 coat. I'm gonna be using most of the can on just this tank so I should be in the 10 mil range with 3-5 light coats. Which is comparable to pond armor and others I believe.

 

[CJH]

To the guy that asked about the paint. It's meant for concrete pools but the tech sheets say it will cover 300 square feet with a 2 mil thickness from 1 coat. I'm gonna be using most of the can on just this tank so I should be in the 10 mil range with 3-5 light coats. Which is comparable to pond armor and others I believe.

That was me. I don't feel like doing the math right now, but I think you might be talking about spread rate, not final mil thickness, and they are not necessarily the same.

On a 6' x 2.5' x 2.5' I think your final mil thickness would be greater than 10 mil. Maybe even near double. But I'm tired and may not be correct.

Regardless, I posted to ask if multiple "light" coats were recommended? Some elastomeric paints used in other applications need to be applied fairly thick since they have poor adhesion or burn-in between coats. The opposite of your woodworking lacquer, for another way to put it.

So one thick coat can be better than multiple thin coats in some cases.

 

[Muni]

That was me. I don't feel like doing the math right now, but I think you might be talking about spread rate, not final mil thickness, and they are not necessarily the same.

On a 6' x 2.5' x 2.5' I think your final mil thickness would be greater than 10 mil. Maybe even near double. But I'm tired and may not be correct.

Regardless, I posted to ask if multiple "light" coats were recommended? Some elastomeric paints used in other applications need to be applied fairly thick since they have poor adhesion or burn-in between coats. The opposite of your woodworking lacquer, for another way to put it.

So one thick coat can be better than multiple thin coats in some cases.

It will probably be thicker. They recommend at least 2 coats on new substrates.

Here is some info from the tech sheet.

*NOTE ON SPREAD RATE: Actual spread rate will vary based upon numerous factors, including texture of the substrate, application
method, waste, surface porosity and thinning. The Theoretical Spread Rate listed on this document has
not taken into account these factors and is only based upon the volume solids of this product and the
recommended wet film thickness when applied to a smooth substrate


WET FILM THICKNESS: 5.3 to 6.4 mils
DRY FILM THICKNESS: 1.7 to 2.1 mils <-- This is what I was basing my thicknesses on.

I'm learning some of this as I go along. As mentioned previously I'm using my Sump as test for this stuff first before it goes into the main tank. So we'll see how it does.

 

[Muni]

Building on the tank will continue tomorrow. Had a busy day of jeeping and getting an xmas tree today.

In other fish news my Kribensis that I bought only 6 days ago laid eggs a few hours ago on the BACK of the pot I setup as her house. Go figure.

 

[john73738]

Tanks,

I too am going to use Birch for the front and sides, but to save a little coin I am might use exterior on the bottom, back, and top brace. These are areas that will not be visible and do not need the fine wood. Dont see a problem mixing. May be worng tho (I was once before)

Bear

 

[Muni]

I'm not sure what "exterior" wood your refering to. You could probaly use a/c plywood and save maybe 6 bucks per sheet. But the c grade side has knot holes missing and is kinda rough looking.

I choose the birch because it looks good, is very smooth finish, and is 7 ply so it is rather stronger then most other plywoods of similar thickness.

 

[john73738]

Not sure what grade the Plywood is, will stop by lowes and check, was a savings of nearly 1/2 the cost, and I seem to remember it didn't look that bad. I have a Photographic Memory... Just out of Film.

Bear

 

[CJH]

WET FILM THICKNESS: 5.3 to 6.4 mils
DRY FILM THICKNESS: 1.7 to 2.1 mils <-- This is what I was basing my thicknesses on.

I suspect this is a typo. Normally you take the wet film thickness and then multiply it by the solids percent (by volume) over 100 to get the dry film thickness.

They seem to have done the math the same way but used the percentage of carriers rather than the percentage of solids.

So what they have listed for dry film thickness is really the amount of the product will shrink by once the carriers evaporate.

Why I'm even talking about this I don't know as ultimately it has little bearing on your project. Most of us way over-apply sealers anyways, myself included.

My only interest is whether the product is better applied in multiple thin coats or a couple of thick coats.

 

[Muni]

I'm probaly gonna brush on two thick coats to start. See how that does.

But it won't be here till thursday so It's gonna be a wait and see on that one.


Once my coffee is done I'm headed into the shop to figure out my top and cut out the viewing window.