530g Tank Setup and Plumbing Help :)

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
For whatever reason the paint said to use only a brush, but I’ll try a roller. I was thinking two more coats. When I paint my glass tank I needed 4 coats to get rid of pin holes.

Exactly what I do too. 4 coats. 1-3 is just thinkening it up and coat 4 seems to be the magic number when it is to my liking.
 
For my own future reference if I decided to go with no substrate, could I paint the wood platform that the tank sits on black for a similar affect or use black tint film on the bottom of the tank?
 
For my own future reference if I decided to go with no substrate, could I paint the wood platform that the tank sits on black for a similar affect or use black tint film on the bottom of the tank?

You can use tint. I have painted the plywood also. The reason I have painted the acrylic is because I was told you get more of a mirror/reflection if you just have the plywood painted. If you paint the bottom you don’t need to paint the plywood. I painted the plywood because I want it to blend with the steel stand.
 
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JK47 JK47 for my drip, I have two 1/2in bulkheads and will have stand pipes. They drain from the bottom and I was just going to use 90 degree elbows which lead to a T and then down to the drain. Do you think I’ll have issues with running the elbows to pvc that is parralell and not angled downwards?
 
Get yourself a good PVC cutter. Being in the plumbing business for 20 years, make sure its for PVC and not copper. Unless you are a pro, an electric cutter is overkill. There are good PVC cutters for $20 or less that will suite your need perfetly.
 
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JK47 JK47 for my drip, I have two 1/2in bulkheads and will have stand pipes. They drain from the bottom and I was just going to use 90 degree elbows which lead to a T and then down to the drain. Do you think I’ll have issues with running the elbows to pvc that is parralell and not angled downwards?

Not a problem at all. I don’t think I have any angled. All elbows here too
 
Get yourself a good PVC cutter. Being in the plumbing business for 20 years, make sure its for PVC and not copper. Unless you are a pro, an electric cutter is overkill. There are good PVC cutters for $20 or less that will suite your need perfetly.

I picked up a rigid 152. Seemed to have good reviews and what jk47 uses.
 
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I picked up a rigid 152. Seemed to have good reviews and what jk47 uses.
That cutter works much better on copper which is what it is made for. A cutter designed for PVC would be an improvement, and can cost less. Not that that one wont work, its just kind of pricey to cut PVC imo. Jaw cutters would work very well on the pipe size needed for aquarium plumbing. A cable saw works well too.
 
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That cutter works much better on copper which is what it is made for. A cutter designed for PVC would be an improvement, and can cost less. Not that that one wont work, its just kind of pricey to cut PVC imo. Jaw cutters would work very well on the pipe size needed for aquarium plumbing. A cable saw works well too.

Interesting, would love to hear what you recommend if you have a preferred brand/model. Pro advice is always welcome here

I thought what I have/recommended to N nzafi was specific to PVC.
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^^Justin, now that pipe cutter makes sense since it has the correct cutter wheel for plastic pipe.

We used a Kobalt brand PVC pipe cutter/shear for doing the 2" PVC drain lines in the fish room. It's a ratchet type with long arms but unfortunately I can't find it online anywhere. I think we bought it at Lowe's.

For the 1" PVC and smaller, we used a very old Sears brand ratchet type cutter.
 
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