With such bio-load in that tank, two AC100 filters would work for the tank the same as that sump. That sump was poorly designed, because except the pond matrix, which was fortunately designed to be tossed in the sump and it will do the job, the rest were improperly used. He may as well just dumped those pond matrix into the tank as substrate, and got rid of that sump. Save him a lot of time and moneySo if it works for the tank it was built for then what makes it poorly designed?
So you don't know that you can reduce the head pressure by raising the XP3 with a high stool, or a couples of L brackets and a piece of plywoodIn regards to your suggestion to use XP3s...
The top of my tank is over 7' high...an XP3 would be useless because it would not be able to overcome that much head pressure. Even an FX5 would struggle if not be complely useless trying to overcome 7' of head.
It's also clear that you don't know what you're talking about. Matala sheet was designed to be used for mechanical filtration (mainly) and biological filtration (secondary). It was design for pond, to capture those waste produce by koil I attached a link to show the proper use of matala so you can take a good look at how you improperly use it. Thanks goodness for the 20L of pond matrix, because they're the only thing that handle the bioload sump. The 40gal of bio-ball and all those matala sheets are just decoratiionsHave you ever used Matala sheets?
The Matala sheets are NOT for mechanical filtration; they are for additional biological filtration. In pond applications, they can be used as mechanical filtration to capture larger debris, but my aquarium does not have large debris like leaves, twigs, etc. The matala sheets would not capture anything that the filter socks had not already captured, so to say that since the bio balls are not in the "cleanest water" because they are not located after the matala sheets is once again incorrect. Matala sheets are very porous; they would do a very poor job of polishing water, but they are a decent biological media. You again provide your opinion, when it's clear you don't know what you are talking about.
http://www.matalausa.com/subcat30.html
It's hard to educate you, Al D-az, when you're on a high horse. Just because that's Aquarium 3 first post, you already dismissed his opinion. He did stated there some good and bad bits with your sump, and he did point out the bad bit. Holder is not just for "look nice." It helps to secure the sock properly, and put the sock in use properly. With the way you tight your sock, the water will put a hole on the side of the sock soon. Also, as he stated, you can adjust the height of your socks, and remove them easily during maintainance.Hi I don't want to upset you at all just want to say, think you have some good and bad bits with your sump. I'm not a fan of the wire holding up your hoses or your socks. You can get nice holders for them that will match your sump and try to get them up as high as you can but still keep them easy to get out.
I have to agree with you on the ignorance of someone posted here, like how he failed to notice the different type of media used in the 2 sumps, or different type of heaters, or how the sock was installed... I also agreed with you that just because you don't understand how something doesn't make it wrong. What makes it wrong is you refuse to learn how something work, go attacking the one who tries to point out the flaw. What make us human better is that we don't just go sniff on each other behind, or flock together just because of having same feathers.And I have essentially the same setup on my 190g tank with a 40g sump. Water enters on one side via a filter sock, passer thru (or over) ceramic media with heater/pumps at the opposite end. I have just 1 heater laying on the floor of the tank. The water passes all above it, but my temp is always stable. The heater does it's job perfectly. Some act like hanging a heater on the back wall of your tank is any better![]()