Another one from the ethics of fishkeeping thread...another one of John's groupie cheerleaders.
I don't think I could ever be a grade school teacher...I am pretty patient, but man, this is getting old...
You still don't get it?...are you dense? I'm hoping you are a child because at least you'd have an excuse for not understanding such a basic premise; I have enough bio. My water parameters are 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and 10 Nitrates. How would adding another pebble of Pond Matrix make any difference. It won't.
In regards to the sensor placement, you mentinon that if "flow slows" down "potentially" it is too close to the heating element....That is EXACTLY why I put it there....we have a winner!
If my pump locks up I want the sensor to tell my heaters to shut down. If the sensor is in the display as you suggest, and my pump fails, the controller will basically boil my sump. As I mentioned before, I know a Reef guy who had precisely this issue. But feel free to continue placing your sensor where you please...I honestly don't care what you do with it. Oh yeah, I forgot, you don't even own a controller...you have no experience with them...but I should take your advice?
Are you starting to see how ridiculous you look?
As was mentioned, do you have any idea how long it takes my tank to cool down? Even with 20F temp differences between ambient air and water, the temps only drop one or two tenths of a degree overnight.
But yes, if I am gone for 5 weeks like you recently were, I won't have 50 gallons of water on my floor because I would know I would lose some water to evaporation and know that pointing my returns at an angle towards the waters surface would result in shooting 50 gallons of water onto my floor. Well done buddy. Well done.
I have a new one: John giving people advice on how to keep fish alive is like Ecoli giving people advice on how to prep their filtration for a long vacation.
You distribute your heaters? What difference does that make when your heaters are located in a sump. You act as if the heat that they produce is going somewhere other than the water. It's all going into the water, which is being circulated 24/7. But if spacing them out 6 inches on center makes you feel better, you go ahead and do that.
The 2,100GPH I have running through my sump is not a strong current? What GPH are you running over your heaters?
Please post a picture of your filtration setup, so that I can see what I should aim for. Please also post a picture of the water damage that 50 gallons on your floor caused.
The tank has been through a winter...with room temps into the low 50s (you are from the area, so you should know in February we had some stretches of temps at and below freezing and I had no problems).
What is your deal dude?
When you don't know what you are talking about, it's typically best to ask questions as opposed to making ridiculous comments.
Back to filtration and heating...
The sump obviously have lots of room to optimize. It's a matter of sinking money into bio media and fill those things up...not too crazy about the bio balls...but better there than sitting in a bag.
Curious about your temp sensor placement. It works if the you can guarantee water flow, that is the flow is fast enough that the entrance temp correctly reflect the tank temp. Suppose say you got called away for two weeks and the flow slows down in the meantime. Then potentially your sensor placement is too close to the heating element that it no longer reflect the temperature of the tank...why take the risk? just put the temp sensor in the tank itself.
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I don't think I could ever be a grade school teacher...I am pretty patient, but man, this is getting old...
You still don't get it?...are you dense? I'm hoping you are a child because at least you'd have an excuse for not understanding such a basic premise; I have enough bio. My water parameters are 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite and 10 Nitrates. How would adding another pebble of Pond Matrix make any difference. It won't.

In regards to the sensor placement, you mentinon that if "flow slows" down "potentially" it is too close to the heating element....That is EXACTLY why I put it there....we have a winner!
If my pump locks up I want the sensor to tell my heaters to shut down. If the sensor is in the display as you suggest, and my pump fails, the controller will basically boil my sump. As I mentioned before, I know a Reef guy who had precisely this issue. But feel free to continue placing your sensor where you please...I honestly don't care what you do with it. Oh yeah, I forgot, you don't even own a controller...you have no experience with them...but I should take your advice?

Are you starting to see how ridiculous you look?
As was mentioned, do you have any idea how long it takes my tank to cool down? Even with 20F temp differences between ambient air and water, the temps only drop one or two tenths of a degree overnight.
But yes, if I am gone for 5 weeks like you recently were, I won't have 50 gallons of water on my floor because I would know I would lose some water to evaporation and know that pointing my returns at an angle towards the waters surface would result in shooting 50 gallons of water onto my floor. Well done buddy. Well done.

I have a new one: John giving people advice on how to keep fish alive is like Ecoli giving people advice on how to prep their filtration for a long vacation.

I distribute my heaters rather than having a pile of them in one place. I also place fairly strong current over them. I would love to have an external sensor, but if I did, I would not put it next to my heaters
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You distribute your heaters? What difference does that make when your heaters are located in a sump. You act as if the heat that they produce is going somewhere other than the water. It's all going into the water, which is being circulated 24/7. But if spacing them out 6 inches on center makes you feel better, you go ahead and do that.
The 2,100GPH I have running through my sump is not a strong current? What GPH are you running over your heaters?
Please post a picture of your filtration setup, so that I can see what I should aim for. Please also post a picture of the water damage that 50 gallons on your floor caused.
Well, proof would be in the pudding. Has this setup been through a winter yet? In an unheated room, for me the same eheim(I have only 2 300 watts at each end of my tank with water flow over them drops about 2 degrees for me( 80 to 78) even across the tank. My tank is 300 gallons. how does op setup perform? Prob with no problems but it is interesting to see a distribution of temperature from one end of the tank to the other.
Again, it is still better to place the sensor in tank where your target temperature is. I don't see why people are arguing about that.
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The tank has been through a winter...with room temps into the low 50s (you are from the area, so you should know in February we had some stretches of temps at and below freezing and I had no problems).
What is your deal dude?
When you don't know what you are talking about, it's typically best to ask questions as opposed to making ridiculous comments.