Ammonia issue help

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
FishDog said:
Sounds to me like you do not have enough bio media so what is happening is your tank is in a constant cycling. You will have to either lighten the bio load by taking fish out or increasing the bio media. Either way the cycle will have to run it's coarse once the changes are made.

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I'm gona give it one more week I it doesn't pan out I'll remove the datnoid.


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mattfish said:
get a bunch of "Polyfilters" they remove ammonia. try buying some "Cycle" and dump that in the tank after everywater change. I would also get some "Lugols" its iodine and will help fight any infections from posible amonia burns. Those used pond filter pads will jump start but 300 gallons is alot to stabilize. but adding those items will make it so you can stop doing soooo many water changes and give the tank time to chill out. I would follow Trevs advice and look into a bio-reactor.
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Added some of the biostart stuff.


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Carpsalmon said:
If this isn't enough media then I don't know what is. Sump is 60 by 24 by 20 but I could be wrong


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Based on the pics I would think there's enough bio in there...... I've used a single bag of rings to run tanks before without any issues.

Is the Ammo reading you're getting the first yellow block on the card? I know my kits here always read like there's a hint of Ammo, but even the tap water tests the same...... I guess the question is have you confirmed the Ammo reading with a different brand of kit or have it tested by a LFS or anything? Just want to rule this out.....
 
I've used three API kits all read the same and my tap is yellow at 0ppm, I'm reading second and third shades of green, this morning it read .25 which is the lowest it's been after a night of no water changes. I also used the same three kits to test my 120 gallon and that comes up clean yellow as zero ppm. So it's definitely accurate.


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From your pics the water looks hazy which is a sign of a cycling. How long has the media been in the sump? Did you add something that could of killed you media in the beginning? If so then everytime you moved a fish while the tank was cycling the filter could of crashed causing it to cycle again. I had a system that this happened to me on. I was moving stuff around so much the tank never cycled until I just stopped and left it alone for a month then one day it cleared up over night.
 
I agree ur in a constant cycle...my 300 with pair of rays looks just like this most of the time....imo theres just too many pounds of fish, especially rays for a 300 to handle even with supreme filtration. I have a bio reactor/moving bed and an autodrip on top of that and i cant seem to keep my tank crystal clear either. You may be changing too much water kickin the cycle in constantly but it should eventually cycle out for you. Sometimes the best thing to do is nothing and give the tank a chance to cycle out. My bio reactor with k1 has been running for a good 6monts and its still "too clean" to balance everything out, patience is a virtue lol...

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Just FYI but my brother called aquatic eco systems about K1 because his media stayed clean all the time and never built up visual bio film. The rep told him he was changing his water too much. He said he needed to stop doing his 50% bi weekly water changes and let the media build up bacteria so it can do it's job. The rep also said it is key to filter the water prior to the K1 because you did not want poo to come in contact with the media. My bros tank in question is a 120 gallon with 3 pups in it so he was over killing his water changes.
 
What? 2 rays is too much for a 300 with supreme filtration????

I've got 13 rays and even more fish on my big system that is capable of destroying 2 pounds of frozen food in a single feeding and it's only cloudy at sock and RFS cleanings. Can easily see right through 10' of water.

IF I had Ammo readings there's no way I'd quit doing water changes.....
 
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