Just make sure that there is no thin skin of silicone remaining on the glass panel faces. Bright lighting really helps to spot the surfaces. New razor blades let you get the skin off easily.
A lint free cloth to apply your preferred cleaner, acetone or denatured alcohol, keeps the fuzzies away. Make sure the room is well ventilated when using either product indoors. I would even consider using a box fan in a window to exhaust outdoors.
I have seen it suggested that the silicone bead thickness should be equivalent to the thickness of your aquarium glass. Mine wasn't quite that thick but is holding up well. When I applied the silicone, with caulking gun, I pushed the bead into the seam when applying it. This helps to apply the caulk more uniformly, without air pockets.
I also did the bottom front joint first, then, used my index finger to smooth the joint, starting in the corner. Of course I was wearing gloves. I bought a box of those 'painters' vinyl gloves. They are thin enough to still feel what you are doing. Try to keep the glove 'tight' on the finger you are using to smooth the joint. I also found it much easier & neater to use paper towels to wipe the silicone off my gloved finger between joint smoothing.
I did the end joints next, smoothing the caulk into the joint. Then the rear joint. I did the vertical corner joints last.
Hope this helps
