Sorry for delay. I was really bussy, and I almost forgot about this thread. The system works great so far. I don't have any problems. NO3 is always below 20ppm, and I never exchanged water using hose since then. I recommend this system for everyone.
Csiller;4339914; said:
well the reason for avoiding float switches is because if salt creep got in there and broke the switch and overflowed the tank.
Yes, You're right. It might not work as well with salt water.
Clay;4353780; said:
The video is great. I was hoping you might expand on the solenoid you used. Do you have a link?
This is a link to website where I ordered a valve.
http://www.stcvalve.com/Process Valve.htm - model 2W200-3/4
This company is very reliable and I highly recommend it. You can only pay by phone.
This valve works very simple. This electromagnetic valve by default it is CLOSED. That mean if there is no power, there is no water flow. It good because if there is an outage i can be sure that i will not have flood in my house. In addition I installed a switch that checks my water level in the WetDry Filter. If for example if my pump stops working and water level rises the switch will cut a power supply.
[QUOTE='vspec';435420;9]I suggest running your incoming lines to the sump by default, never to the display, gives at least better equilibrium potential.
Im interested in what other parameters your monitoring if youve changed to RO exclusivity.
If your floats ever give you trouble, look to pressure switch tubes.
applause for the effort in under taking, it turned out well, assuming you did all the work yourself?[/QUOTE]
OK, thank for your suggestion. I will think about it.
I'm testing every week: NO3, NO2, PH, Silicate, Phosphore, KH, GH, Ammoniac.
Thank you, I did it by myself.
manlyfish;4354344; said:
ever think of making a step by step thread?
i can get confused easily
Well, the movies are pretty much self explenatory, if you have specific questions just ask me
I will try to make another video, to show everything in detail
redbouche;4365135; said:
That is an excellent idea. If I had the time or money I'd go for it. For now, the python will have to do.
Thank you
[QUOTE='vspec';436647;7]Its worth pointing out, that whilst its a possitive, its not without its own negative implications.[/QUOTE]
So far so good, I didn't have any problems, I don't plane to change anything.
dragonfish1ca;4402306; said:
Im planning to do this with a 3 filter setup and drip to tank drain from sump. Problem is my city uses chlorimines not chlorine....
Im thinking to use this type of carbon to remove it???
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360289155109&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Anyone else have any experience with chlorimine remover?
Right now im doing pails and prime..... and its just too much work and it still builds up faster than i can change it.
Why don't you use a RO/DI filter ?
Egon;4405125; said:
FYI: I just run straight tap water into my tanks for my over flow system (auto water changer system). 2 Gallons per hour into my 450. 1 gallon per hour into my 360. Fish are fine. Weird huh?
Good for you
dragonfish1ca;4405710; said:
Ohh i believe you.... I have an asian arrow community tank right now.... and stingrays on the way.
Thats why im trying to be so exact with this....
Good luck then !
