Basic Aquarium Filtration misunderstanding

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo

duanes

MFK Moderators
Staff member
Moderator
MFK Member
Jun 7, 2007
22,594
29,628
2,910
Isla Taboga Panama via Milwaukee
I am writing this because of the many questions I see on MFK about filtration. And because I believe aquarium filtration is highly misunderstood, and that misunderstanding is the cause of many would be aquarists leaving the hobby, and many of the fish illnesses, maladies and deaths they experience.

First off, why should you believe me?

My major field of study was Environmental science, with an emphasis in wastewater and drinking water filtration technology. I went on to work for almost 20 years as a chemist/microbiologist in a drinking water filtration plant, where part of my job, was to assess the efficiency of 48 filters through scientific analysis. These filters together averaged a flow rate of 300 million gallons per day.

I have also been an aquarist for over 50 years.

That out of the way, here are some of the misunderstandings I see, and posed as similar questions.

Are manufacturer filter stats adequate for my tank?

Most stats are based on an average community tank.

This means the equivalent of a tank with maybe 4 tiger barbs and a pair of 3”-4” gouramis, or a tank of 6 guppies and a betta, or a tank of 6 small tetras and a pair of angelfish, and maybe some kind of small catfish or loach in each tank.

One 10” oscar (or any other similar sized cichlid) is nearly the equivalent of all of these fish combined. So to me this means most tank manufacturer rated filters are undersized by at least 3 times for 1 oscar.

But this begs another question…does a filter actually remove all the bad things in a tank?

To me the answer is no.

When the biological media in a filter is sized properly for the fish the tank, it will serve to remove toxic ammonia and nitrite, and help to covert those toxic substances to, or store “less toxic” nitrate.

The mechanical media in a filter only “stores” particulate.

Does it remove it from the system? No.

It stores mulm, fish feces, and other junk, and is a place where those substances further metabolize and can leach invisible, chemical substances back into the water.

Unless the aquarist purges the media of this stuff, it is still in the system, and still in the tank, unless removed by water changes, or some other chemical reactor, or substance.

In my filtration plant work, biological filters needed to be backwashed every 5 days, otherwise non-beneficial bacteria would proliferate, and particles would break through, which lead to a lessening of filter efficiency.

I believe some kind of similar routine needs to be done on aquarium filters.

This leads to another question…

My water is perfectly clear, doesn’t that mean it safe?

No.

Most of the substances that are toxic in either an acute way, or chronic way to our fish, are invisible.

And just because an aquarium is cloudy, doesn’t mean its unsafe.

Anyone that lives next to the Mississippi river knows, the water can be mud brown and still be teaming with fish.
 
does a filter actually remove all the bad things in a tank?

To me the answer is no.
Hello; I agree.

mechanical media in a filter only “stores” particulate.

Does it remove it from the system? No.
Hello; I agree.

perfectly clear, doesn’t that mean it safe?

No.
Hello; I agree.

an aquarium is cloudy, doesn’t mean its unsafe.
Hello; I agree. (I do like clear water, but I do not panic when things get stirred up)
 
  • Like
Reactions: convict360
Hello I also agree nigh on to infinity, good post.

I'm probably being ignorant, when you say backwashing; is the equivalent for us, squeezing the filter in old tank water, or is there a better method?
 
It is very much the same as squeezing out media, but when backwashing the filters I worked with, it took 55,000 gallons to do one backwash on one filter. The flow in the filter had to be reversed so all debris would overflow to waste down the middle trough. When finished, all debris from the wash water was then settled out, and recycled back to Lake Michigan. The sludge was then sent to a wastewater facility to be used in wastewater treatment. Below is one of the filters.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JK47 and davenmandy
Hi Duanes.
Would you by any chance have any experience interpreting an Oxygen reduction potential, ORP mv meter.
It would be appreciated.
Tap water -88 mv 7ppm nitrate with 300 plus hardness. 8.4 ph
Aquarium with wet/dry filtered water -53 mv 8ppm nitrate.
My question pertains to my denitrator effluent.
At +02 mv nitrates are 3ppm
At -02 mv nitrates are at 00ppm 6.8 ph

If I increase the carbon dose The ORP mv reading will go as high as +30 mv
I think this is phosphate getting oxidized. I have not yet found any information on this.

My probe reads distilled water at 0 mv.
Thank,
I have operated a tiny 20,000 GPD extended aeration waste water treatment plant, before age of the internet.
 
Sorry I do not have experience with ORP meters, or de-nitrators.
Our influent water from Lake Michigan had a nitrate concentration of <1ppm, and even with the use of chloramine, left the plant at a max of 2ppm, well under the MCL of 10ppm.
Nitrate was never an issue for us.
For my tanks, I relied on frequent (every other day significant %) water changes, planted sumps, and lots of pothos.
 
I am writing this because of the many questions I see on MFK about filtration. And because I believe aquarium filtration is highly misunderstood, and that misunderstanding is the cause of many would be aquarists leaving the hobby, and many of the fish illnesses, maladies and deaths they experience.

First off, why should you believe me?

My major field of study was Environmental science, with an emphasis in wastewater and drinking water filtration technology. I went on to work for almost 20 years as a chemist/microbiologist in a drinking water filtration plant, where part of my job, was to assess the efficiency of 48 filters through scientific analysis. These filters together averaged a flow rate of 300 million gallons per day.

I have also been an aquarist for over 50 years.

That out of the way, here are some of the misunderstandings I see, and posed as similar questions.

Are manufacturer filter stats adequate for my tank?

Most stats are based on an average community tank.

This means the equivalent of a tank with maybe 4 tiger barbs and a pair of 3”-4” gouramis, or a tank of 6 guppies and a betta, or a tank of 6 small tetras and a pair of angelfish, and maybe some kind of small catfish or loach in each tank.

One 10” oscar (or any other similar sized cichlid) is nearly the equivalent of all of these fish combined. So to me this means most tank manufacturer rated filters are undersized by at least 3 times for 1 oscar.

But this begs another question…does a filter actually remove all the bad things in a tank?

To me the answer is no.

When the biological media in a filter is sized properly for the fish the tank, it will serve to remove toxic ammonia and nitrite, and help to covert those toxic substances to, or store “less toxic” nitrate.

The mechanical media in a filter only “stores” particulate.

Does it remove it from the system? No.

It stores mulm, fish feces, and other junk, and is a place where those substances further metabolize and can leach invisible, chemical substances back into the water.

Unless the aquarist purges the media of this stuff, it is still in the system, and still in the tank, unless removed by water changes, or some other chemical reactor, or substance.

In my filtration plant work, biological filters needed to be backwashed every 5 days, otherwise non-beneficial bacteria would proliferate, and particles would break through, which lead to a lessening of filter efficiency.

I believe some kind of similar routine needs to be done on aquarium filters.

This leads to another question…

My water is perfectly clear, doesn’t that mean it safe?

No.

Most of the substances that are toxic in either an acute way, or chronic way to our fish, are invisible.

And just because an aquarium is cloudy, doesn’t mean its unsafe.

Anyone that lives next to the Mississippi river knows, the water can be mud brown and still be teaming with fish.

Greetings fellow water and waste water guy!!!
....you were a lab rat apparently....just kidding and no disrespect. I was a lab rat for a few years myself.
I totally agree with what you are saying, and I have long ago given up on the pursuit of crystal clear water with zero particulate matter. I know plenty of people with absolutely crystal clear water and 100ppm nitrate....
I think often times, clear water is mistaken for good water quality.
I have really gravitated towards UV sterilization and frequent large water changes. Short of denitrification tower and nitrifying bacteria, large water changes are really the only way to get rid of nitrates en masse.....or add a lot of plants.
Most people I know don't like algae and decaying plant matter in their aquarium so they filter the water as much as possible....and the industry has catered to that hobbyist. I would love to one day see an ecosystem replicating kit for the home aquarium, complete with solid waste removal and digestion! ! Haahah! That would be a filter!
 
Lab rat is not an insult to me.
And I agree about the pursuit of totally particulate free water, the invisible stuff is much worse. I have seen crystal clear ponds almost totally devoid of life.
I also do not discourage algae, except on the front viewing windows.
And although I find pothos to be particulate magnets, and collectors, their value as nitrate reducers supersede any of those problems to me. I just vacuum the roots during water changes. And have also had cats at the same time as using pothos in tanks, without a problem, but did make an effort to keep the cats out of the fishroom


And kept pothos on top of tanks, to keep it out of the cats normal range.
 
Duanes, everything you said is true and I am glad that someone with practical knowledge in water treatment is speaking out. I can validate your statements as I am also a practicing environmental engineer and aquarist for 40 years.

Clear water is for the aquarist to enjoy, but not necessarily healthy for the fish as dissolved contaminants are invisible. In nature, plankton poor water is clear but cannot support high biomass. Filters don't remove the waste, just temporarily store particulate wastes away from the water column until you clean the media. Neither will filter remove dissolved wastes which continue to accumulate until you do WC. The right way to maintain good water quality is to do frequent WC and frequent filter media cleaning. This is why I prefer small capacity HOBs over large capacity canisters which force me to clean the media frequently.
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com