I believe in the natures way, so I'm gonna say refugium sump is the best way to go. I would suggest u keep the swords in the tank and add photos and arrowhead plants (huge nitrate consumer!) in the sump along with some floating plants like duckweed. All of those r big nitrate consumers and since they get CO2 from the air u don't need to dose it. Underwater plants need CO2 in the water so if it's lacking then the growth will b insignificant and so will the nitrate consumption. I'd put 3-4x turnover rate on it and make sure there is a good flow in all parts of the sump. Don't forget 8 hrs light for the sump! U can also put arrowheads and photos in the tank if u need more, that's where i have mine. Allow for few weeks to pass before u notice an effect till the plants adjust from the move. Best of luck to u
Best DIY nitrate 'filter'?
- Thread starter Kaiden
- Start date
Thanks, Alexanian! I'll follow your advise and leave the swords on the tank. I haven't seen an Arrowhead plant though. Is it a terrestrial or aquatic plant? Does it matter that I'm not planning to put any sand/substrate on the sump?
As far as the sump design goes, here's a sketch of what I have in mind for it.
As you can see, it's a very simple design. I'm planning to submerge the tube coming from the overflow to avoid air bubbles. Not sure if that's going to work so someone please correct me if I'm wrong. As for the output tube, I'm just thinking of putting a plastic craft mesh (similar to the ones used for a DIY divider) just so the roots won't go near the return pump and clog it. The rest of the sump is just purely for plants. For the overflow, I'm planning to use a 1" PVC Pipe and follow this DIY I found on Youtube.
[video=youtube;65yVr7DiDls]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65yVr7DiDls&feature=player_embedded[/video]
For the return pump, I'm thinking of getting a Hydor Koralia Evolution pumps but I'm not sure how much GPH I should get. I'm a little confused on how to calculate the maximum flow. When you said 3-4x turn over rate, are you talking about the main tank (which is 150 gallon) or the sump (which is 10 gallons)? Not sure if it matters but the height of the tank + stand is a little less than 5 ft. Any recommendations for a quiet pump that doesn't put out too much heat? My tank is in our entertainment room so we use this to watch movies once in awhile. For the 'pipes', I'm thinking of using a flexi hose just so it's easier to install and remove.
As far as the sump design goes, here's a sketch of what I have in mind for it.
As you can see, it's a very simple design. I'm planning to submerge the tube coming from the overflow to avoid air bubbles. Not sure if that's going to work so someone please correct me if I'm wrong. As for the output tube, I'm just thinking of putting a plastic craft mesh (similar to the ones used for a DIY divider) just so the roots won't go near the return pump and clog it. The rest of the sump is just purely for plants. For the overflow, I'm planning to use a 1" PVC Pipe and follow this DIY I found on Youtube.
[video=youtube;65yVr7DiDls]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=65yVr7DiDls&feature=player_embedded[/video]
For the return pump, I'm thinking of getting a Hydor Koralia Evolution pumps but I'm not sure how much GPH I should get. I'm a little confused on how to calculate the maximum flow. When you said 3-4x turn over rate, are you talking about the main tank (which is 150 gallon) or the sump (which is 10 gallons)? Not sure if it matters but the height of the tank + stand is a little less than 5 ft. Any recommendations for a quiet pump that doesn't put out too much heat? My tank is in our entertainment room so we use this to watch movies once in awhile. For the 'pipes', I'm thinking of using a flexi hose just so it's easier to install and remove.
K
I have the fb and havent used it on my 155, it is under construction 3d diy mod, I have used the purigen on my fry and grow out tanks right in aq110, had hundred or so 1" fh in 30 gal, and the purigen work wonders although it saturated very fast due to the high load. And use it on 55 with 3-4" fh 3 aq110, without it I would have to do daily water changes, I was able to go on vacation for 8 days with no water change and all these fragile little guys were happy and healthy when I returned ( my mother in law stayed at my house and fed them a reduced diet I had pre prepared with scheduale) I normally changenthe water in these every 3 days out of caution.
The old directions said to soak in acid buffer treated water to counter the alkiline effect of the bleach, this caused swings in alot of tanks and has since been modified. There is plenty of info about the issue if you want to google it.
I have large driftwood in my 125 was causing me grief with ph swing, would drop to 6 pr under, I added crushed coral in one fx5 (have 4 on the tank) and used will buffer the water but have stopped because the coral work alone. The buffer technieque is 2:1 ratio of alk to acid buff, I like seachem products but there are cheaper alternative,
I like plants but they are not as effective as some people think, they create thier own waste, and nitrate removal is minimal esp if your readings are in the red and you cant fit many, I do like to use them in addition to other methods, whatever the plants soak up would be that much less the purigen will be saturated with extending time between recharge. I would have 2times the amount needed then you can swap when you want and have the used charged and avaiable. It is expensive in stores but way better by the liter from affordable aquatics
The 155 Im putting my best fish in and want it to be a show tank, I will use every method available to keep it prestine, alls ready but by bg
40 gal sump(crushed coral and refugium in center chamber), the tank is predrilled and has 2 overflows, 12000 gph pump, 40 watt uv and fluidized bed running on there own lower gph pump inleting from last chamber with carbon and purigen outleting to a second bio ball box modified over half the middle section of the sump, 2 of the 4 fx5 will move with the best fish to this tank
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I have the fb and havent used it on my 155, it is under construction 3d diy mod, I have used the purigen on my fry and grow out tanks right in aq110, had hundred or so 1" fh in 30 gal, and the purigen work wonders although it saturated very fast due to the high load. And use it on 55 with 3-4" fh 3 aq110, without it I would have to do daily water changes, I was able to go on vacation for 8 days with no water change and all these fragile little guys were happy and healthy when I returned ( my mother in law stayed at my house and fed them a reduced diet I had pre prepared with scheduale) I normally changenthe water in these every 3 days out of caution.
The old directions said to soak in acid buffer treated water to counter the alkiline effect of the bleach, this caused swings in alot of tanks and has since been modified. There is plenty of info about the issue if you want to google it.
I have large driftwood in my 125 was causing me grief with ph swing, would drop to 6 pr under, I added crushed coral in one fx5 (have 4 on the tank) and used will buffer the water but have stopped because the coral work alone. The buffer technieque is 2:1 ratio of alk to acid buff, I like seachem products but there are cheaper alternative,
I like plants but they are not as effective as some people think, they create thier own waste, and nitrate removal is minimal esp if your readings are in the red and you cant fit many, I do like to use them in addition to other methods, whatever the plants soak up would be that much less the purigen will be saturated with extending time between recharge. I would have 2times the amount needed then you can swap when you want and have the used charged and avaiable. It is expensive in stores but way better by the liter from affordable aquatics
The 155 Im putting my best fish in and want it to be a show tank, I will use every method available to keep it prestine, alls ready but by bg
40 gal sump(crushed coral and refugium in center chamber), the tank is predrilled and has 2 overflows, 12000 gph pump, 40 watt uv and fluidized bed running on there own lower gph pump inleting from last chamber with carbon and purigen outleting to a second bio ball box modified over half the middle section of the sump, 2 of the 4 fx5 will move with the best fish to this tank
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Would adding crushed corrals cause any pH swings? Do you use chemical pH buffers? I've always been told that it's better to have a stable pH than using any pH buffers that may cause swings. Now I'm a little confused lol.
What do you say about adding Purigen on HOBs? I'd really rather not get a reactor at this point. The only other place I could put it is in the plant sump I'm planning to make. But a 10 gallon doesn't really leave much space. I'm planning to fill it full of plants.
What do you say about adding Purigen on HOBs? I'd really rather not get a reactor at this point. The only other place I could put it is in the plant sump I'm planning to make. But a 10 gallon doesn't really leave much space. I'm planning to fill it full of plants.
Ok I used to buffer the water with the seachem buffers, increasing the buffer decreasing the possobility of swings, I have nutral water from the tap, the ratio 2 up: 1 down cancels each other out, increasing buffer but keeping water at a more stable 7. Think of the buffer as a sponge that will absorb ph swing. The ratio chart is on the bottle for desired level of ph.
I naturally buffer the water with the coral (ph up) and wood (ph down), took some testing to get right as the ratio isnt set so I had to experiment a bit. experimenting
Before I knew about buffering, when I would change my water the fish would get stressed and appear to be breathing heavy, this is not good
Know because the tank water doesnt gradually lower in ph when I do a change with the 7 ph water there is no change in behavior or advers effect on my fish.
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I'll try adding some crushed corals then. Thanks. 
On the other hand, I think I may just buy a pre-made overflow box lol. I just went to Lowes to purchase the materials I need and ended up spending almost $40. I looked around and an Eshopps PF-800 will cost me around $55 so there's not a big difference.
Does anyone know if Eshopps is noisy though?
On the other hand, I think I may just buy a pre-made overflow box lol. I just went to Lowes to purchase the materials I need and ended up spending almost $40. I looked around and an Eshopps PF-800 will cost me around $55 so there's not a big difference.
Does anyone know if Eshopps is noisy though?
Craigslist is great for deals, well were i live
Be careful with the coral, I use it in my filter, when I clean the filter I have to be very carful. I keep it in a mesh bag, take it out and clean it in a bucket of tank water, the coral will powderize slifhtly making the bucket milky. You have to make sure to carfully cleen with more tank water until you get no more milky dischatprege, i use small amounts of tank water dunking the meah bag and letting it drain, keep replacing the small amount of water so you can see when it remains clear, I only clean it every other time if it isnt moved around alot it wont powderize, and it will act as bio media as well. The milky stuff will be a large amount of alkalinity dispursed into the tank but its easy ro work with just wanted to let you know.
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Be careful with the coral, I use it in my filter, when I clean the filter I have to be very carful. I keep it in a mesh bag, take it out and clean it in a bucket of tank water, the coral will powderize slifhtly making the bucket milky. You have to make sure to carfully cleen with more tank water until you get no more milky dischatprege, i use small amounts of tank water dunking the meah bag and letting it drain, keep replacing the small amount of water so you can see when it remains clear, I only clean it every other time if it isnt moved around alot it wont powderize, and it will act as bio media as well. The milky stuff will be a large amount of alkalinity dispursed into the tank but its easy ro work with just wanted to let you know.
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Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. I'm also planning to use a fine mesh back for it. If I have space in my 10 gallon sump, I can try putting it there. If not, I'll put it on the HOB.
There's never a good deal for any fish stuff on CL in my area. Long Island is such an overpriced place lol. Someone here is selling their 175 gallon with built in overflow and stand/canopy for $350 in CA. I bought my 150 gallon tank with stand and 2 canister filters for $575.
There's never a good deal for any fish stuff on CL in my area. Long Island is such an overpriced place lol. Someone here is selling their 175 gallon with built in overflow and stand/canopy for $350 in CA. I bought my 150 gallon tank with stand and 2 canister filters for $575.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but for overflows and return pumps...the overflow has to have a higher capacity than the pump. Like, for a PF-800, I need a pump that is rated for 500-700 GPH. Is that correct?
