building a 1000 gal concrete block monster tank
- Thread starter wizzin
- Start date
fish_monger;659085; said:
It's the steel to concrete connection that worries me, and the sealant of metal, and the cost of it. What you show would be ideal. One other concern with that design is setting the glass though. It's going to be a Bi.... getting it set into the opening, and with your design, it would have to be slid in from top, or set and then the second one set. Just a complicated installation.
BTW. I got a quote the other day on a 1/4" piece of 9x4 stainless at 8' in length at $625. I'd have more in the frame than the entire rest of the tank if I went with a metal frame. It doesn't give you THAT much more benefit than wood. Possibly more headaches.
see the thing i think is wrong about that is the weight of the water one that glass and sooner or later that glass will slip off or crack
zennzzo;659198; said:
angle iron is cheap. Stainless steel (wont rust) isn't. How would you seal the iron where it's submerged? More importantly, what's the purpose of the iron? Have you looked at TheFishGUy's tank? It's 14'x3'x3' and is entirly lumber. We're not building an aircraft carrier here.
I would be concerned about using iron in a tank.
zennzzo;659130; said:
In figure 1, the pressure is along a parallel plane at point A. I can see how the water pressure could eventually push through and leak at this point because there isnt the same resistance in the opposite direction. Cyl head gaskets work the same way but are a re-enforced and are a lot tougher than plain silicone I suppose.
In figure 2 though, how would you get the LRB sealant to form a tight enough seal at point A between the edge of the acrylic and the frame to prevent the same problem from occuring?
By setting the panel into a frame you will reduce the side loading pressure (fig 1) but unless point A in (fig 2) is tight then it will have the same problem. The LRB could be used and then silicone injected to fill the gaps.
Hope Im not over analyzing this.
Jovial;659568; said:In figure 1, the pressure is along a parallel plane at point A. I can see how the water pressure could eventually push through and leak at this point because there isnt the same resistance in the opposite direction. Cyl head gaskets work the same way but are a re-enforced and are a lot tougher than plain silicone I suppose.
In figure 2 though, how would you get the LRB sealant to form a tight enough seal at point A between the edge of the acrylic and the frame to prevent the same problem from occuring?
By setting the panel into a frame you will reduce the side loading pressure (fig 1) but unless point A in (fig 2) is tight then it will have the same problem. The LRB could be used and then silicone injected to fill the gaps.
Hope Im not over analyzing this.
You'd use the lrb/tav mixture to create the gasket, then once the glass is set and the first application of lrb is set, you'd apply another liberal amount of lrb over the entire seam, including the glass. Finally, you'd paint 4 coats of permaflex over the entire assembly.
I think I've got it down per their instructions. I'll take detailed photos of the process.
I'm going to be using angle iron for the frame of my tank, just like a standard glass tank is built, then adding verts on the corners...all external.wizzin;659482; said:
I have a wirefeed welder, and can weld the stand, add my lighting on swing up mounts, and the eyes needed to hoist the tank into place...
I always overbuild my stuff...
