Oh I know what to do, just can't right now for money and parental reasons.Have you figured out the top rack problem yet?
Oh I know what to do, just can't right now for money and parental reasons.Have you figured out the top rack problem yet?
it looks like you only have the faseners supporting the weight of each tank. i would lose sleep at night like that.Just built this rack yesterday. It's pretty unique in the way that it's created as a ladder type rack. Each tank sticks out 6 inches longer than the one on top. Meaning that you can have literally an inch of space between each layer and still be able to get into each tank.
The basic idea is to save lots of space and be able to fit in 4 layers of tanks in the same space that a normal conventional rack would only hold 3 layers of tanks. As with a normal rack you would need at least 6 inches of space between each shelf to get into the tanks for maintenance.
Wires and all are still all over the place as I need to buy a couple more extension leads to get all the wires sorted but I'm sure you can get the idea from the images.
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People really over think the whole weight this. And to be fair for good reason!it looks like you only have the faseners supporting the weight of each tank. i would lose sleep at night like that.
the screw itself is rated for 100lbs in controlled conditions. if you watch project farm on youtube youll find that one screw may hold 100lbs one may hold 20. not because of the screw. but because the consistency of the wood grain. also that 100lbs is either rated as tensile or shear strength. if that stand rocks side to side even a few millimeters your now dealing with a mixture of the two and your rating could be drastically diminished. im not going to talk someone into doing something they dont want to do. but there is a reason why no one with any reputation in the hobby advises a stand be build that way. best of luck. years ago i build a simular stand for 75s but i screwed blocks under each horizontal and even PL construction glued it. 2nd shelf failed 3 years in. just my 2c.People really over think the whole weight this. And to be fair for good reason!
Each fastener brace is supported by two 80mm screws. 8 screws in total per shelf directly through 2 inch thick wood.
Each one of them screws can in theory hold 100lbs. Biggest tank on the rack weighs in at 264lbs full of water.
Would recommend more side bracing of course if you wanted to go over 300lbs per shelf.
on the plus side. at least it appears to be cheap flooring in that room LOLL LukeOscar is absolutely right. No stand building DIY hobbyist in their right mind, if they want to sleep peacefully at night that is, should solely rely on the screws or nails as support for heavy aquariums, regardless of supposed safety factors of the fasteners.
Sure, your stand may, and probably will last for years, but there will always be that niggling doubt, which would drive me insane. Build it correctly from the get go and take that niggling doubt away imo.
This ^ exactly. The idea of taking the theoretical, rated capacity of a fastener or other piece of hardware, and actually expecting that to be accurate with the bargain-grade materials and amateur construction skills we as hobbyists typically use...is frightening.the screw itself is rated for 100lbs in controlled conditions. if you watch project farm on youtube youll find that one screw may hold 100lbs one may hold 20. not because of the screw. but because the consistency of the wood grain. also that 100lbs is either rated as tensile or shear strength. if that stand rocks side to side even a few millimeters your now dealing with a mixture of the two and your rating could be drastically diminished. im not going to talk someone into doing something they dont want to do. but there is a reason why no one with any reputation in the hobby advises a stand be build that way. best of luck. years ago i build a simular stand for 75s but i screwed blocks under each horizontal and even PL construction glued it. 2nd shelf failed 3 years in. just my 2c.