Do some homework, why not just build from wood? If I was going monster I'd build it like some of the 2x4 ponds. There are def plenty of threads on here if you tank the time to do some research
burst tank
- Thread starter stumac
- Start date
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
... im thinking solid blocks on their side could also be an option instead of double wall.
the tanks in a garage built for my fish, its got a 12" reinforced concrete base so it should be solid lol
I don't know how you would secure solid blocks to prevent them from moving.
To Mastiffman, he is not building a stand, the tank leaks and he wants to rebuild the tank on the floor using concrete block construction & using one glass pane as the viewing window.
Bryan, I have looked at the wooden setups and there not for me, im useless with wood and dont want to use a liner, iv raked through shed loads of posts on this and pond forums without much luck.
Dee, the blocks would be stuck together with mortor if thats what u were meaning, i will try and get a picture of what im thinkin but its basically, solid concrete floor, build raised base with block, filled with hardcore(type 1) whacked solid, 4" concrete slab (single mess reinforcement), then block built upwards to 30-36" on this slab with the front being a glass panel. Im researching the glass thickness atm as i have 12mm already and as the tank wont be much taller than the original glass tank it was made from i dont see it being an issue.
if using rebar and hollow blocks then from the original floor, i would drill and fix rebar ever 6-12", slot the blocks over, acheive the same level using same method and fill blocks with concrete.
Dee, the blocks would be stuck together with mortor if thats what u were meaning, i will try and get a picture of what im thinkin but its basically, solid concrete floor, build raised base with block, filled with hardcore(type 1) whacked solid, 4" concrete slab (single mess reinforcement), then block built upwards to 30-36" on this slab with the front being a glass panel. Im researching the glass thickness atm as i have 12mm already and as the tank wont be much taller than the original glass tank it was made from i dont see it being an issue.
if using rebar and hollow blocks then from the original floor, i would drill and fix rebar ever 6-12", slot the blocks over, acheive the same level using same method and fill blocks with concrete.
Stumac, I understand now what you mean by using solid block. For some reason I thought you were just going to dry stack them (my error).
It sounds like a good plan but I don't know what the advantage would be to using solid block vs. hollow block with rebar.
Is there any specific reason you don't want to just repair the leak on the current tank? Either way, the tank still needs to come out to repair it, unless the leak was along the front pane.
Did you build this tank yourself or did you have a professional tank builder make it? Any advice from them may help determine what caused the leak in the first place.
It sounds like a good plan but I don't know what the advantage would be to using solid block vs. hollow block with rebar.
Is there any specific reason you don't want to just repair the leak on the current tank? Either way, the tank still needs to come out to repair it, unless the leak was along the front pane.
Did you build this tank yourself or did you have a professional tank builder make it? Any advice from them may help determine what caused the leak in the first place.
the main advantage of the rebar is the rigidity of the box, the tank as you said will have to come out to repair and if im doing that then it will neec stripped as it was built on site by a professional company who's since went bust, the cause is the base it sat on, too thin a sheet of ply and sections unsupported causing a back break,
If im stripping the tank i recon id rather build the bigger block tank
If im stripping the tank i recon id rather build the bigger block tank
I just found some info on the general building codes used in the U.S.A. regarding CMU's or concrete blocks that state that CMU's have compressive strength ONLY in the vertical direction. They require reinforcing steel (rebar) and grout (concrete fill) in the cells to resist lateral movement. Of course this applies to building structures but should be similarly applicable to what you want to do.
I'll see what else I can dig up.
I'll see what else I can dig up.
cheers mate, iv seen them used in big builds on here so their defo upto the job, the problem is there big and there fore i wouldnt gain much extra volume over the original tank, my engineer type mate suggested single thickness side walls with a turn in at the front to secure the glass to, then single wall along the back with a single pier in the middle, his main concern is the sides pushing out if not properly tied as the fronts all glass, he suggested a metal angle frame around the top and framong the glass with lugs on the frame which can be secured to the walls giving beter rigidity overall. overall basic shape of the blocks like this
[___]
with the glass obviously filling the gap
[___]
with the glass obviously filling the gap
OK i'll try to throw some ideas in here. firstly a thought on the leaking tank, my tank bottom glass cracked once so I know how u feel and this was my fix: i just took another glass pannel and glued it on top of the cracked one and it's been almost 10 years now and no problems whatsoever. so if u have just one side leaking glue another side of the same size on top of it and it's a quick easy fix. However if ur using this as an opportunity or an excuse to make larger tank with building blocks then i sugest since ur building the bottom on the floor, then build the back and the sides against the walls too ( I'm assuming from the picture of the tank u posted that this is the same place u will b building it ) In that case u will not need any additional frame support for the sides. Now for the glass view in the front I think there should b rubber buffer between the cement and the glass and because of the extra water pressure u could use two panels of the leaking tank glued on top of eachother. My idea is after u build the walls and everything glue wide strips of rubber on the inside on the edges of the built wall and then glue the double viewing panels to the rubber.
Hope this was in any way helpfull to you and i would really love to see pix of it once it's donne
Hope this was in any way helpfull to you and i would really love to see pix of it once it's donne
aspects of the above post are correct, i believe i could repair the tank cheep or free, however the cause was a bas that was unsupported in sections so to fix this i would need to lift the existing tank and remedy the fault b4 hand
this creates the problem of a split base being jacked = sides or front to split if not done spot on.
the block tank does apeal for different reasons but is gona cost, if the original front glass isnt suitable then its defo a no go as costs will spiral
this creates the problem of a split base being jacked = sides or front to split if not done spot on.
the block tank does apeal for different reasons but is gona cost, if the original front glass isnt suitable then its defo a no go as costs will spiral
