Canister?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
by sand filter, I mean a pool filter that uses sand.

They're great for particulate, and super easy to do maintenence on. You just backwash them (run water through them backwards, and pump the dirty stuff into your yard, or drain). No dirty work needed. Your hands never get dirty. You just flip a couple levers.

And to top it all off.....They're super cheap.

If I ever needed particulate filtration only, this is the only route I'd go.
 
pool filters, they all look like they are for much larger setups than my little hex, can you recommend one for a tank under 55 gallons, I don't want a flow over 350 gph it will make the tank too turbulent.
 
A DE filter looks promising but Do they loose prime when not running? Also, some have sighted them as very noisy is this true? I've seen mixed reviews on them, can they run continuously or do they max out at 8 hrs of use because they require a cool down?

If a DE filter keeps prime I could just put it on a timer.
 
Gte the best filter made in the last 20 years the Eheim classic series.
 
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This is my DE filter setup. It is a Hayward EC40 DE pool filter. It has 25x the surface area of the Diatom XL I linked you to earlier. It requires an external pump. The pump I am using is 1/8th hp. I have run it for 9 months straight with the only maintence being turning off the pump and pumping the handle on the filter up and down a few times once a month. With the surface area and the way the filter recycles the media I don't know when I will ever have to actually change the DE.

A friend gave me a Diatom D-1 (Smaller than the XL) about a year ago. I let is sit around for a while and didn't bother messing with it. One cloudy tank day I figured what the heck. The first time getting it up and going was a royal pain. But after messing with it I got it primed filled and running. 10 minutes later... perfectly clear water in my 110g. I mean PERFECTLY CLEAR!!!! Like nothing I have ever seen in my tank before! So I would pull it out every other week to clear the tank up after a water change and got to the point that I could setup the Diatom in just 2 to 3 minutes. (The stock hoses are a pain to use. I changed mine to black spiral pond tubing).

You really only need to run the Diatom XL for an hour or two at most. I would leave mine running for a few days until the flow would start to slow down.

It is about the same noise level as my Magnum 350 which also isn't a quiet filter. It is a bit more hassle than an ordinary filter. It is unquestionably worth the hassle!!!

My 110g sits in a window with direct sunlight. I was able to remove the background from the tank and not have any algae problems since I went to the Hayward DE filter. I believe the DE removes the free floating algae from the water before it can settle and colonize. (I also use Pothos hanging over the rim of my tank which might be out competing the algae for nitrogen compounds) The marketing literature says DE will remove Ick fungus from the water. I believe this claim!

There are a gazillion fine pores in the DE powder which perform the super small particle filtering (Down to 1 micron is what I believe the literature says). I don't know if Nitrifying bacteria like DE but is sure seems like the DE would provide more surface area than any other media available for beneficial bacteria to colonize.

The DE filter does not max out at 8 hours because of heat. It is very possible that a really dirty tank will plug all the DE pores in 8 hours and it will slow to a trickle. For me I would get a few days before this happened in my dirty 110g.

It isn't loosing prime that they are referring too. What they are referring to is the DE powder falling off of the filter screen when there is no flow through the filter. I had no problem stopping and restarting my Diatom D-1. When I would restart it the filter would put out a small cloud of DE in the tank. The filter itself would clear up this cloud in 10 minutes or so. But the directions say not to stop and restart the filter because the DE will fall off the filter screen.

The Diatom DE filters are closed loop design that will not loose prime if you don't take the hoses out of your tank... just like any other closed loop canister filter.

On the Hayward stopping the flow through the filter and knocking off the DE from the filter screens IS the recommended maintence routine. I initially charged my Hayward with about 5 cups of DE powder. When I opened the filter this covered all the filter tubes/fingers (screens) with a good 1/4" + of powder. You knock all of the powder off the tubes and let it recoat the tubes to expose a new layer of DE to the surface and make a fresh layer of DE pores to trap particles. I thought this knocking off and recoating was kind of dubious when I bought the filter but it does work extremely well exactly like the manufacture says it does.

By the way, if you do a little googling you will see that DE is used a lot in food processing. Filtering wine to make it clear, not cloudy is a very common application for DE filters.

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Wow, I'm really compelled to experiment with one of these filters now. Not sure if I want to go small and set it to a timer or go full on and do the pool filter model. is there an optimal flow rate on the pool filter or will slowing it down just lessen the need for me to clean it?
 
The Hayward EC40 was built to use a 2hp pump and filter a 10000 gallon out door pool with all sorts of junk falling into it and dirty people jumping into it. I could not find anyone that had experimented with a DE pool filter on an aquarium and my biggest concern was not having a big enough pump to keep the DE on the filter screens.

My little 1/8th hp pump works perfectly even though it is a fraction (1/16th the power probably even a smaller fraction of the flow) of what the filter was meant to handle. I attribute the lower flow of my pump to the complete lack of maintence I have had to perform on the filter. I was a little surprised when I saw the price on the Hayward EC40 to be honest:

http://www.amazon.com/Hayward-EC40AC-Perflex-Extended-Cycle-Filter/dp/B000EVSUK2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1327445391&sr=8-1

About $215 including shipping. This is by far one of the best aquarium filter deals I have ever found! At less than twice the cost of the Diatom XL with about 25 times the filter area it was a no brainier for me! I do still really like the Diatom line of filters... but I love the Hayward!

I think I paid around $30 for a 25 or 50lb bag of DE powder on e-bay. At the rate I am using the DE powder I should have enough powder for my unborn great grand children to use on their aquariums.
 
I've been using a d-1 since I started doing my own maintenance 30 yrs ago and it is still running strong. Its a bit of a hassle but I will always own a diatom filter as long as I own fish. Another member set-up a whole house filter using a small pump and a 1 micron cartridge and it sounded promising and very inexpensive.
 
When I tried the Big Blue whole house cartridge filters I would get a week maximum out of the 1 micron spun poly cartridges before they would plug up so much that there was pretty much no flow left. I would have to go to the 20 micron or bigger pleated cartridges to get any kind of life out of them and 20 micron does not give near the water clarity of 1 micron. I even tried two 1 micron filters behind a single 20 micron filter. That didn't extend the life of the 1 micron cartridges appreciably.

For me cleaning the cartridges was impossible which meant throwing them away. Even though the cartridges aren't outrageously expensive they do add up very quickly when you have to change them every week. And changing the cartridges in the big blue canisters is not a joy! I could never figure out how to change them without a lot of water all over the place.

I don't feel very bad washing a load of dirt (I mean DE) into my yard or down the drain.

I agree that I would never want to do without a DE filter!
 
I'd still personally go with the pool sand filter. The DE stuff just sounds like a hastle compared to pool filter sand. Plus, the overheating, etc... Just skip the hastle, and run a sand filter.

And you don't have to run them at rated while filtering. The main thing is that you have a large enough pump for backwashing. If your pump is too small for backwashing, you won't clean the gunk out of the sand properly.
 
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