Cichlids keep dying after around 2 weeks

[fishhead0103666]

It can release tannins like driftwood can. Which lowers ph. Maybe only when you first put it in.

I’ve never heard of any moss doing that nor have I had it happen personally, have you experienced that yourself?

How do you maintain your test vials. I suggest buying a gallon of Deionized or Distilled to rinse out your test vials because with regular tap some regent can remain and stain the vials. When you do a test it will give a false reading if any regent remains.

I’ve seen this method suggested several times but that seems to be excessive and a waste of time and money when you could simply fill and empty the vial with the tank water a few times, shake it if you want, the point is that you would be getting rid of any contaminants.

Is there a flaw in my thinking or am I correct that this is also a possible way?

 

[tlindsey]

I’ve never heard of any moss doing that nor have I had it happen personally, have you experienced that yourself?

I’ve seen this method suggested several times but that seems to be excessive and a waste of time and money when you could simply fill and empty the vial with the tank water a few times, shake it if you want, the point is that you would be getting rid of any contaminants.

Is there a flaw in my thinking or am I correct that this is also a possible way?

I would experience false readings of test particularly Ammonia. Since using Distilled water noticed no more discoloration of test vials. Its possible that maybe it depends on water hardness but tbh I don't know. You may be right as well by flushing out the test vials with aquarium water. I also let Distilled water remain in the test vials until the next test. It maybe overkill but I'm ok with it lol.

 

[esoxlucius]

That ph is very high. It's right at the top end of the scale for the "ph low bottle". Just out of curiosity do another test on your tap water but this time use the "ph high bottle".

I'm no expert on cichlids but i'm leaning toward oscars liking lower ph levels being from the amazon area. This could be a major factor also in their demise. duanes can you confirm this for me please?

If you are putting your oscar straight into that ph level (it could even be way higher than 7.6 if you use the "ph high bottle"), then that would be one hell of a shock to them from the ph they were kept in at the LFS you got them from.

 

[twentyleagues]

Just to point it out. Are you getting these fish from the same place everytime? What is their track record? I would also worry about the pH issues you may need to switch up species or try and fix the pH of your water. I would personally find species that like those parameters.
On the pH thing I recently moved and went from so so city water to high pH well water. All of my fish are doing great no issues at all. pH was 7.0 to 7.4 and went up to about 8.5ish I've checked it and it's pretty stable. It's very hard also almost liquid rock. Going on 7 months now. I have a couple South American fish that should like softer water and they seem to be fine. My point is I think pH shock is possible but I think it isnt really going to kill the fish in a short period if they are healthy in the first place. Maybe if they are a completely soft or black water species and you toss them right in fresh rock hard high pH water but we are not talking about super sensitive species from the wild here. But it's still a possibility. My guess is they are compromised when you get them.

 

[Marekj]

That ph is very high. It's right at the top end of the scale for the "ph low bottle". Just out of curiosity do another test on your tap water but this time use the "ph high bottle".

I'm no expert on cichlids but i'm leaning toward oscars liking lower ph levels being from the amazon area. This could be a major factor also in their demise. duanes can you confirm this for me please?

If you are putting your oscar straight into that ph level (it could even be way higher than 7.6 if you use the "ph high bottle"), then that would be one hell of a shock to them from the ph they were kept in at the LFS you got them from.

I don't have the API master kit so unable to use the pH high bottle I have the single pH test kit, single ammonia test kit as well as the API test strips. All fish were purchased from Benson's pet store who are a quality store imo and never had problem with there fish in the past only since using this tank and I'm using plenty of bio media in the filter (Marine pure bio media). So you're suggesting it's more of a pH problem than an ammonia problem?

 

[Marekj]

Update Tested pH of tap water using a test strip and it's reading between 8 and 8.5 and then tested pH of tank and its between 7.5 and 8. Also have nitrate reading of about 20 with 0 nitrites today. Will test ammonia later after getting some distilled water to clean the vials

 

[Marekj]

Update Tested pH of tap water using a test strip and it's reading between 8 and 8.5 and then tested pH of tank and its between 7.5 and 8. Also have nitrate reading of about 20 with 0 nitrites today. Will test ammonia later after getting some distilled water to clean the vials

Cleaned vials with distilled water retested amonia got same the result with both the tap and tank water reading between 0 and 0.25

 

[esoxlucius]

I don't have the API master kit so unable to use the pH high bottle I have the single pH test kit, single ammonia test kit as well as the API test strips. All fish were purchased from Benson's pet store who are a quality store imo and never had problem with there fish in the past only since using this tank and I'm using plenty of bio media in the filter (Marine pure bio media). So you're suggesting it's more of a pH problem than an ammonia problem?

It's too early to give a single reason yet but it's looking like an either or type thing. Elevated ammonia can be devastating but high ph not necessarily so, as long as the fish has had time to adjust, and once it has adjusted it's important it remains stable.

My thinking is that if you are taking the oscars from the LFS which has had them housed in a suitably low ph, and then you take them home and drop them in your 7.5 / 8 ph that could be a real problem. I've tagged duanes into the post, he'll confirm my suspicions one way or the other.

 

[Marekj]

It's too early to give a single reason yet but it's looking like an either or type thing. Elevated ammonia can be devastating but high ph not necessarily so, as long as the fish has had time to adjust, and once it has adjusted it's important it remains stable.

My thinking is that if you are taking the oscars from the LFS which has had them housed in a suitably low ph, and then you take them home and drop them in your 7.5 / 8 ph that could be a real problem. I've tagged duanes into the post, he'll confirm my suspicions one way or the other.

Alright I understand. Currently trying to get this little 3in Cuban Cichlid to survive, he's been hiding in a cave for 3 days now (had him for 5 days) not really swimming around at all and hasn't eaten yet. Will continue to do 30% water changes daily and keep everyone posted. I appreciate everyone's help.

 

[jjohnwm]

I personally think that pH is not the problem here. You have a tank with an extremely low bioload most of the time (1 catfish, 1 snail). When you add a couple of fish, depending upon their species and size, you could be doubling or tripling the bioload, but the population of beneficial bacteria in the tank is at the very low level supported by the "normal" bioload. Increasing filtration area won't really help, unless perhaps you throw in a fully-matured sponge filter at the same time as adding the new fish.

Many people seem to forget that the population of bacteria that a tank will support is dependent upon the bioload, i.e. the amount of ammonia available for them to utilize. Adding more surface area will change nothing, the total bacterial population of the tank will grow only when more food (ammonia) becomes available. If the added filtration already has an established bacterial population, it must be added when the new fish are; otherwise, the bacterial population will drop down to the level the tank will support.

A tank of X gallons with one fish has enough bacteria to survive on the ammonia produced by that one fish...regardless of filtration surface area. Adding another identical fish doubles the bioload, and there will be an ammonia spike until the total bacterial population catches up with it. The same tank established with 10 identical fish has 10x the bacteria. Adding one more fish increases the bioload by 10%, a barely noticeable blip that is quickly corrected. Bear in mind that the situation you are describing with this tank sounds very much like the first scenario rather than the second.