CREATING THE ULTIMATE FILTRATION AND EVOLVING WITH YOUR FISH!!!!!!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Well i can look ten feet through my tank and if someone is on the other side i can see the pores in there skin BUT i work on my tank minimum 4 hours a day And i am tellin ya i WILL FIND a better way you can bet on it!!!!!
things are always changing getting faster quiker better if it has not happened yet it does not mean it won't !!!!!!
 
Ok now that's a whole separate problem all in itself haha!

But geezus man, 4hrs a day?? That's nuts. What all do you have to do on a daily basis? I seriously spend about 90 seconds on my tank a day, just to feed. I think I've gotten used to easy maintenance that it's made my lazy!
Big fish big maintenance !!!! I have 4 other tankes running also witch i must admit is exesive!!!!but i am exesive!!!
 
Yeah obviously the flow vs chamber size is the key issue, and i'm yet to figure out if it will work on my planned 450g tank, running around 4-5 times turn over. I think the shape of it also effects how well it settles, too skinny and the flow will be too fast, too short and it won't have enough time to settle, too wide and you end up with a huge area to try siphoin clean...

I'll try work out some numbers this weekend to see if I can get a better idea of if its workable on my big set up.
awsome would love to see your calcs!!!!
 
I'd like to see them too! :ROFL:

I'm not quite sure how to do it, its one thing to work out the GPH and turn over, but the shape of the tank is what will determin the speed the water is flowing thru the settling chamber. I think I'll start by working out how fast it was moving in the old set up and take it from there.


And 4 hours a day is madness! I admire your dedication, but I think I must be lazy too...
 
You're right about the flow rate, and that is what I need to try figure out for the new set up. Obviously the slower the flow (and the larger the tank) the more muck is going to settle out, so I guess it depends on how much stuff you want to catch before the filter socks that determines how effective you consider it to be.

I found it worked very well with the "sawdust" produced by the royal, the settling chamber was made out of a 30g tank, 3'x14x14" IIRC, and it was running a Laguna 7500 pump. Once I got rid of the royal it was less effective on catching the muck, but there was also a lot less muck (I'm sure anyone who has kept a large-ish panaque knows how messy they are!). That is my main motivation for having one on the new set up, the Panaques. Anything I can catch before the socks will increase the intervals between cleaning them out. With the new set up I may look at putting a bulk-head in the bottom of the settling chamber so I can simply stir it all up and open a tap to drain out most of the waste, rather than trying to siphon it out.

I get what your saying and love your sump idea. So true about slowing the water to catch more but on the flip side I hear ray keepers complaining about particles in the tank. So I guess one needs to decide on the happy medium. I like my tanks always clear of particles and so I went with the high turn over rate. The big turds do not disappear if the flow rate is not high and I do not like powerheads in the tank (just me). My first attempt was high turn over rate with socks. Works but requires a lot of manual cleaning. What got me really thinking is the filter I have on my outside mahseer pond. The pool style cartridge would start to fill up and slow the water flow. I thought it was a good thing because it's not ramming the water through and I should catch more. Worked great with weekly cleaning. Things started to change when the mahseers grew. Weekly cleaning became daily. Sound familiar? I dumped the cartridge and installed a high flow rate cartridge made of mats. I thought water clarity would suffer but I was wrong. Pond is now clearer than before. The cartridge does not clog allowing a high flow rate. More particle pass though the cartridge clinging on to each other. Cleaning has gone back to weekly even during Summer.
Trying to do the same for by tank and to minimize the mess in the garage I replaced the socks and sump with a glass filter. It's a high flow rate filter and tank is clear. I backwash the filter everytime I do a water change. So free water for cleaning and it doesn't kill the biological. The term gluing media is nothing new. When bead medias hit the koi world it was seen. It had to be chipped with a broom handle during cleaning. With evolution, air blowers were incorporated and media shape changed to prevent channeling and clogging. Now if you don't maintain it like the example I gave in my previous post. It won't work. The owner actually told me to disconnect it but leave the settling chamber. I guess it their way of going back to old betsy.
Cost was brought up about the fancy filters.....can someone put together cost for a bio reactor or canister or fancy sump? I think they are all dependent on what you put in. How about time spent on cleaning? Everyone keep different stock so a filters will work differently from tank to tank. So bottomline is if you are happy with your fish why change your filter? I know my filter is an evolution (not perfect).
Nothing against sock...Jay made a good point, "You wouldn't put filter sock on a koi pond". Some of the monster tanks I've seen should be treated as a pond based on stock and size. So socks or no socks? And vis versa pond bead filter or not?
 
I'd like to see them too! :ROFL:

I'm not quite sure how to do it, its one thing to work out the GPH and turn over, but the shape of the tank is what will determin the speed the water is flowing thru the settling chamber. I think I'll start by working out how fast it was moving in the old set up and take it from there.


And 4 hours a day is madness! I admire your dedication, but I think I must be lazy too...
Well i also have breeding peacock bass pairs right now so it does take time and there is alot of watching behavior also not just purely labering all of this time LOL!!!
 
how much have you spent on your filtration DB?????? I would be willing to bet if because you like to build your own either a chamber or sumps and tubs that the overall cost is simular!!

That's one bet I'll gladly send you my paypal address for......

2 beat up acrylic 55s - $60
4 100/200 socks - $20
Pondliner- $30
2 plastic 55 gallon drums - free.
5 ft3 K1 - $225
1 pondmaster ap 100 $150
PVC $50
bio towers $50
pot scrubbies $50
50 lbs ceramic rings $80

As you can see the most expensive part by far was the bio..... No way around it. You get what you pay for. Still have to add the most expensive part (the bio chips).

You say socks are flawed, but we BOTH personally know someone with one of these high dollar glass bead filters and we both know how well it worked for him. Might be just fine for mini Marbles but when you consider that a 20" ray is probobly the same bio load as 1/2 dozen midgets it's not hard to understand why it may work for some, and not for others.

To me saying anything is "flawed" is a sign that hope is gone and judgement has allready been passed. A very bold statement. I always add "in my experience" or "when I tried" when speaking of things being "flawed" cause I know dang good and well that if someone wants something to work bad enough they WILL find a way...... Especially if repair is in their blood. ;)
 
So socks are flawed but the "holy" bead filter isn't?

LMFAO. Get some big rays and feed them.

I don't care what "reefers" or other "fishkeepers" have/use. I only care about what the guys producing the rays run. guess what? There's a VERY common trend. They scrapped the fancy bead filters and went back to socks and a moving bed.

Not sure how you guys are setting up your sock filtration but if you think socks are "flawed" then your attempt to run them was just that.... Flawed.

I have no problem whatsoever with mine. Now I'm nowhere near 9K gph through my sump. I'm only a measly 6-7K gph, but still at that my socks will go a week, possibly 2. the trrick is not to rely on single micron rating socks. I use 200/100s and all is well.

Don't get me wrong, IF I had the money I might try fancy big bead filters but I would expect the same result as others using them. The stingray poo to glue the media together.

But then again, it would probably be a cold day in hell before I ever bought a crate motor either. I enjoy this hobby cause I enjoy building/designing my own stuff.... To me that's half the fun. When it doesn't work you redesign. I feel like theres lots of hobbyists here that go out and buy the nicest filtration they can afford, expect it to perform like magic, and when it doesn't it's because their system was just too "manly" and they need something even better (more $).
Yes, sock is flawed. However, the flaw is not on the sock, but on how a person used it. They're not designed to handle strong flow, get clogged too easy. The mighty bead filter (not holy yet) on the other hand was designed for koi, designed to handle high flow rate, just look at the specs if you wish. You think ray is the only messy fish? Get some koi and carp, feed them, and you'll find out those bottomless creature is as equally messy like ray, if not worse.
 
I get what your saying and love your sump idea. So true about slowing the water to catch more but on the flip side I hear ray keepers complaining about particles in the tank. So I guess one needs to decide on the happy medium. I like my tanks always clear of particles and so I went with the high turn over rate. The big turds do not disappear if the flow rate is not high and I do not like powerheads in the tank (just me). My first attempt was high turn over rate with socks. Works but requires a lot of manual cleaning. What got me really thinking is the filter I have on my outside mahseer pond. The pool style cartridge would start to fill up and slow the water flow. I thought it was a good thing because it's not ramming the water through and I should catch more. Worked great with weekly cleaning. Things started to change when the mahseers grew. Weekly cleaning became daily. Sound familiar? I dumped the cartridge and installed a high flow rate cartridge made of mats. I thought water clarity would suffer but I was wrong. Pond is now clearer than before. The cartridge does not clog allowing a high flow rate. More particle pass though the cartridge clinging on to each other. Cleaning has gone back to weekly even during Summer.
Trying to do the same for by tank and to minimize the mess in the garage I replaced the socks and sump with a glass filter. It's a high flow rate filter and tank is clear. I backwash the filter everytime I do a water change. So free water for cleaning and it doesn't kill the biological. The term gluing media is nothing new. When bead medias hit the koi world it was seen. It had to be chipped with a broom handle during cleaning. With evolution, air blowers were incorporated and media shape changed to prevent channeling and clogging. Now if you don't maintain it like the example I gave in my previous post. It won't work. The owner actually told me to disconnect it but leave the settling chamber. I guess it their way of going back to old betsy.
Cost was brought up about the fancy filters.....can someone put together cost for a bio reactor or canister or fancy sump? I think they are all dependent on what you put in. How about time spent on cleaning? Everyone keep different stock so a filters will work differently from tank to tank. So bottomline is if you are happy with your fish why change your filter? I know my filter is an evolution (not perfect).
Nothing against sock...Jay made a good point, "You wouldn't put filter sock on a koi pond". Some of the monster tanks I've seen should be treated as a pond based on stock and size. So socks or no socks? And vis versa pond bead filter or not?

Good input. I know you do a lot of work with customer ponds...any experience with parabolic screen filters? Looks like an interesting low-maintenance design for mechanical filtration (speaking large tanks/ponds here). Pricey though.

I've seen the cartridge filter you have on your pond and it seems like messy work. Unavoidable though. On our koi pond we have one of these filters for both mechanical and bio. The pond would benefit from separate mechanical filtration which is why I'm curious about other methods...

abf5_1.jpg
 
That's one bet I'll gladly send you my paypal address for......

2 beat up acrylic 55s - $60
4 100/200 socks - $20
Pondliner- $30
2 plastic 55 gallon drums - free.
5 ft3 K1 - $225
1 pondmaster ap 100 $150
PVC $50
bio towers $50
pot scrubbies $50
50 lbs ceramic rings $80

As you can see the most expensive part by far was the bio..... No way around it. You get what you pay for. Still have to add the most expensive part (the bio chips).

You say socks are flawed, but we BOTH personally know someone with one of these high dollar glass bead filters and we both know how well it worked for him. Might be just fine for mini Marbles but when you consider that a 20" ray is probobly the same bio load as 1/2 dozen midgets it's not hard to understand why it may work for some, and not for others.

To me saying anything is "flawed" is a sign that hope is gone and judgement has allready been passed. A very bold statement. I always add "in my experience" or "when I tried" when speaking of things being "flawed" cause I know dang good and well that if someone wants something to work bad enough they WILL find a way...... Especially if repair is in their blood. ;)
I shall revise my statement DB!!!! It can be bettered is that better LOL!!!!As far as the glass filter it needs a "PRE" mechanical when loads get past a certain point NO doubt!!!ASfar as your cost break down i came up with $665 Dollers - 50 for pvc witch you would need anyway and guess what the glass filter is around $800 bucks for a 16 inch PRETTY close in my book wouldn't you say DB????? granted everybodies tank is not the same and has different needs for sure!!!!
 
MonsterFishKeepers.com