I do have the water a couple inches off the top with a double air stone as well. I actually have yet to get a test kit. I really should. I just have the fish store check it the past couple times. What do you guys recommend the API master kit? I was doing 25% changes before I dosed with kanaplex. I have yet to change water in 6 days. But I am going to be doing a large water change tomorrow and probably run carbon and re evaluate. I'll check for ammonia and stuff tomorrow and post the results. Unless I should continue with kanaplex. I really don't know. I know maracyn 1 & 2 is great for cloudy eye and Popeyes but that will definitely kill my bacteria.
Datnoid cloudy eye and possibly Popeye I
- Thread starter Tony Trapz
- Start date
Also idk why but his right eye has a little black line now which looks like it's on the inside of the eye. Almost looks like a frozen blood worm that I was feeding him got stuck to him. But it looks on the inside. This is very frustrating.
Yes. The API master test kit is very good for the price and what I'd recommend. He's just not responding to kanaplex so I'd definitely stop it and do a water change. I'd do larger than 25% ... maybe 40% but not larger at one time for now.
If it were me, I'd cut way down on feeding and work up to 50% water changes twice a week. I've used Seachem Paraguard to treat a bad case of popeye once. It was in one eye only but it was effective. You could use that with Triple Sulfa in a bath and one or the other (or possibly both) in the tank. It depends on how his eyes look and what the water parameters are.
Yes, Maracin 2 for this I think. I would keep some of the media alive in separate tank and filter by adding ammonia to the water.
If it were me, I'd cut way down on feeding and work up to 50% water changes twice a week. I've used Seachem Paraguard to treat a bad case of popeye once. It was in one eye only but it was effective. You could use that with Triple Sulfa in a bath and one or the other (or possibly both) in the tank. It depends on how his eyes look and what the water parameters are.
Yes, Maracin 2 for this I think. I would keep some of the media alive in separate tank and filter by adding ammonia to the water.
I will test tomorrow morning. And post my findings. I will do a good size water change. And look into paraguard. It says it "doesn't adversely effect the filter bed". So we will see.
What's bothering me is that if this all possibly started because of "poor water conditions" from my new tank, than how will I ever beat it? Because if I kill my filter bed than the tank will still not be cycled and it's like an endless battle.
What's bothering me is that if this all possibly started because of "poor water conditions" from my new tank, than how will I ever beat it? Because if I kill my filter bed than the tank will still not be cycled and it's like an endless battle.
It's definitely best not to use antibiotics or other medicines unless you believe it's necessary. In this case, hopefully water changes and maybe baths in paraguard (malachite green and formalin) might be enough. You can also add antibiotics to food so you don't harm the beneficial bacteria but getting the dose right can be a pain.
Ok. If the cycle is already whacked I might as well just go with the big guns and use Marycyn. If not I will do water changes and dips with paraguard. What other antiobiotics can you mix with food?
Happens when eye scratches an object, during transfer s, in bag transit, and is very common thing to happen two dats.solution: clean water, activated carbon , and/or (Na) [11].
Best of luck fellow mfker
Best of luck fellow mfker
Let's wait and see. But even if there are readings for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, you've still got ammonia-oxidizing and nitrite-oxidizing bacteria growing and so you want to protect them. It takes too long to start over and it's too harmful. You could do erythromycin in a quarantine tank for prolonged bath. Then change the water out each day. Minocycline isn't going to be effective if your pH is high and I wouldn't use your water for a bath strait from the tap. If pH is 6.0 from the tap and then rises above 7.6 then it must have an enormous amount of dissolved CO2 (150 ppm). I'd let it sit in the quarantine tank with an airstone/airpump so the CO2 escapes first. After about 6 hours the water will be good to use for a bath.
Seachem Sulfaplex has dosing instructions for food and can be used instead of Triple Sulfa.
Ammonia was 0
Nitrite was 0
Nitrate was 0
Ph 7.6 or greater.
Tested using API test kit from LFS.
Going to pick my own kit up today.
Does that mean I am fully cycled still. Or not cycled at all? I did have my ammonia spike the end of the first week.
Nitrite was 0
Nitrate was 0
Ph 7.6 or greater.
Tested using API test kit from LFS.
Going to pick my own kit up today.
Does that mean I am fully cycled still. Or not cycled at all? I did have my ammonia spike the end of the first week.
