Initially the plan was to build a custom stand and canopy for a friend who planned to get into the hobby. Despite a recent change of plans, my brother and I decided to forge ahead with the stand and canopy and move my F1 Tropheus Chipimbi from their 75 gallon grow-out. The stand and canopy will be built to fit a custom 140-gallon tank (72" x 19" x 24") which I am picking up from Bow Valley Aquariums on March 4, 2010.
Here are the progress pics of the stand.....
All frame holes have been piloted with a countersink bit. We then constructed the frames using particle board screws dipped in wood glue. We used the particle board screws because of their solid thread and the washer type heads make for a tremendously strong hold.
Bottom Frame
Floor - We used 2x6 for the outer pieces and 2x4 for cross supports. This left a 2" lip around the frame. We added 3/8" plywood to form a "floor" which will hold the DIY sump filter.
Top Frame - We used 2x6 studs so that no vertical center support is required which would interfere with sump access.
In order to keep both frames square, we used a Wolfcraft 90 degree clamp. This thing is a must have for DIY'ers.
When it came time to add vertical supports, we used a Kreg pocket hole jig so we did not need to use "screw strips" or additional supports (which also mean additional weight).
Here's a shot of a 2x4 stud after using the Kreg jig.
A couple of shots showing the verticals being placed and how we built our corners.
The basic stand structure.
We used angle braces against the vertical supports and in the top frame to strengthen the stand and help prevent "racking".
The stand has been built 17" longer than the tank to accommodate the external overflow and return plumbing. Plywood inserts were placed in the top frame to help support plumbing. Holes will be drilled once the tank is in place.
Well....that's it for now. Next step is to prime the structure with Zinssers primer/sealer and paint with Super Beauti-Tone Liquid Plastic Enamel.
Here are the progress pics of the stand.....
All frame holes have been piloted with a countersink bit. We then constructed the frames using particle board screws dipped in wood glue. We used the particle board screws because of their solid thread and the washer type heads make for a tremendously strong hold.
Bottom Frame
Floor - We used 2x6 for the outer pieces and 2x4 for cross supports. This left a 2" lip around the frame. We added 3/8" plywood to form a "floor" which will hold the DIY sump filter.
Top Frame - We used 2x6 studs so that no vertical center support is required which would interfere with sump access.
In order to keep both frames square, we used a Wolfcraft 90 degree clamp. This thing is a must have for DIY'ers.
When it came time to add vertical supports, we used a Kreg pocket hole jig so we did not need to use "screw strips" or additional supports (which also mean additional weight).
Here's a shot of a 2x4 stud after using the Kreg jig.
A couple of shots showing the verticals being placed and how we built our corners.
The basic stand structure.
We used angle braces against the vertical supports and in the top frame to strengthen the stand and help prevent "racking".
The stand has been built 17" longer than the tank to accommodate the external overflow and return plumbing. Plywood inserts were placed in the top frame to help support plumbing. Holes will be drilled once the tank is in place.
Well....that's it for now. Next step is to prime the structure with Zinssers primer/sealer and paint with Super Beauti-Tone Liquid Plastic Enamel.
Cant wait to see it done
i need to get me a pocket hole jig and a 90 degree clamp.