Drawer Wet/Dry Filter

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
wtf;4356543; said:
Cheap. Effective. Love it!

How much gph you got going through that?

The only thing i would question is the size of the wholes you drilled on the top tray. They seemed small, as if they would constrict flow.

One last question, $?


Thanks.

Under 600 gph.

It's OK. Da math is strong wid CHOMPAS.

A little over twenty bucks.
 
Sweet, neat little set up!
 
I hope this formats properly
holesize radius area(sq") holes per 1" area

1 0.50 0.78539816 1
1/2 0.25 0.19634954 4
1/4
0.125 0.04908739 16
1/8
0.0625 0.01227185 64
1/16
0.03125 0.00306796 256
1/32
0.015625 0.00076699 1024
1/64 0.007813 0.00019175 4096
 
well, I think a mod should find out how to copy excel tables into this! That would make it a million times easier to read (and provide a benefit to members wondering how to get accurate throughput based on hole sizes)
 
CHOMPERS;4356421; said:
Here's how to make the parts:

The female fitting remains unchanged, but the male fitting is cut at the base of the "nut" portion. Use a scrap of pipe to hold the fitting while cutting it.

So the purpose of cutting the male fitting at the base of the nut, is to allow for greater area coverage of the incoming tank water onto the mechanical filtration media as opposed to channeling it into a specific smaller area?

Secondly, with the use of a male electrical conduit fitting and using a female PVC fitting, what are the advantages/disatvantages of doing this. I know you mentioned the conduit threads being straight and the PVC threads being tapered and if you use one as opposed to the other, a few cuss words and wrenches would be necessary. My question is, in the mixed thread use (straight/tapered vs. tapered/tapered) do the straight/tapered thread use, require adhesives or teflon tape use when putting the two together to prevent leaks?

CHOMPERS;4356428; said:
Finished!!!

In this photograph, it illistrates 3 piplines going into the top of your filtration system. Would you be kind enough to explain what they are for and how they function in the use of you aquarium, pump, and aditional filtration accessories (e.g. bulkhead inlets/outlets, spraybars, overflow boxes/J tubes, etc.)?

I noticed too, all 3 pipelines each have two 90 degree el's. Why did you use 90's as opposed to 45's?
Could you have cut your head loss in half on those 3 lines at that point or would the head loss matter that much in 'd math calculations, overall?

With the 3 pipelines centered in the top of your filtration system, how does your return line reach the filtered/cleaned water in the bottom of your filtration system without disturbing the new construction of the lower 2 drawer's design and function? Is it a simplistic remedy or is this another unique CHOMPER'S engineering marvel? Elaborations on this would clear the muddy water. Thank you.
 
Hmm. I had a custom glass sump made that I still need to silicone dividers into. maybe I'll do this instead and use the sump as an aquarium.

Thanks, Sir Chompers!
 
Conner;4357616; said:
Hmm. I had a custom glass sump made that I still need to silicone dividers into. maybe I'll do this instead and use the sump as an aquarium.

Thanks, Sir Chompers!

Has CHOMPERS just been dubbed a KNIGHT? :ROFL:
 
david, the pipe was cut for two reasons that I can think of. One being so that the water is not concentrated in one area. the other so he can open the drawer. the top of the drawer is in line with the bottom of the top which is only a small amount of difference with the top of the 3 drawer sump. a much better way then having to take pipe apart to get inside it for service.

And if i recall another one of chompers threads he built a DIY overflow box with a 2 additional fail safes just in case the main got clogged. that would be his 3 pipes coming from his overflow box.

Chompers yet again you have to out show everyone that has done these 3 drawer sumps. and like how you have to tote wedge so it cant bow out.
 
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