Drip Success!!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
only .5 gph on the 135 and with the 150 is plummed into the 240 and with the sump volume its a 400 gallon system and im dripping a total of 336 gallons per week on that and my city chlorine runs very low and dont really need to filter it out

That is perfect then. Great design, I will be copying much of it. The only thing I will change is an overflow piped out of my sump. Essentialy a "j" pipe inside the sump pointed up and connected to a bulkhead. I will have the top of the pipe stop at the level I want the sump to operate at while the system is on. In the event of a power outage, the sump will never overflow. I will run a drain line out to the back yard into a container with a pump and I will water my yard with the water.
I like your design.
BTW, in a "normal" munincipal water system, chlorine should be at a very low residual at the faucet. The aerator in your faucet is designed to theoretically gas off chlorine when it flows. If you cant smell chlorine, then it is probably a low residual concentration. If you can smell it, it would be a good idea to at least test the ppm concentration so it doesnt kill off BB and fish.
Just my opinion.
 
it saves to much work the drip system no heavy buckets :thumbsup:
trying to decide to do it this way or drilling the 50g in double stand and where to drill them.
 
That is perfect then. Great design, I will be copying much of it. The only thing I will change is an overflow piped out of my sump. Essentialy a "j" pipe inside the sump pointed up and connected to a bulkhead. I will have the top of the pipe stop at the level I want the sump to operate at while the system is on. In the event of a power outage, the sump will never overflow. I will run a drain line out to the back yard into a container with a pump and I will water my yard with the water.
I like your design.
BTW, in a "normal" munincipal water system, chlorine should be at a very low residual at the faucet. The aerator in your faucet is designed to theoretically gas off chlorine when it flows. If you cant smell chlorine, then it is probably a low residual concentration. If you can smell it, it would be a good idea to at least test the ppm concentration so it doesnt kill off BB and fish.
Just my opinion.
if you can smell chlorine the residual is too low. properly chloronated water will not smell of chlorine.
 
if you can smell chlorine the residual is too low. properly chloronated water will not smell of chlorine.

Properly chlorinated water wont smell of chlorine because the chlorine has been used up and is no longer at a detectable level. If you smell chlorine at the tap, the residual is high enough to smell and taste, that means the operators at the treatment plant over-chlorinated.

Look up the root word for residual, then comment.
 
How did u do the overflow? does it siphon like the regular DIY Pvc overflow or what? i have one installed on my tanks but have to use a ball valve to get flow like that... do u have the siphon pipe barely in their or what? looking to do one on my 800gal... how are u get such as slow rate threw the siphon but not breakin the siphon as well? or are u just letting the pipe fill till it flows over with the xtra water from the drip system till it flows over to drain out or what...
the overflows work the same as an overflow box where there is a tube going from inside to outside of the tank and when the water reaches a level its drains into the other side and then out the drain line. took me a while to figure it out but pretty simple concept.
How did I miss this thread!?!?! Great job Forrest!!! :clap: thanks for the kudos guys.

My word of caution with this style overflow, beware of your disolved O2 levels creating a bubble in the syphon line. It happened to me when I ran excessive air in the tank. Check it often.

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thanks man. saw in your thread about the dissolved O2 and am definitely keeping an eye on it.
That is perfect then. Great design, I will be copying much of it. The only thing I will change is an overflow piped out of my sump. Essentialy a "j" pipe inside the sump pointed up and connected to a bulkhead. I will have the top of the pipe stop at the level I want the sump to operate at while the system is on. In the event of a power outage, the sump will never overflow. I will run a drain line out to the back yard into a container with a pump and I will water my yard with the water.
I like your design.
BTW, in a "normal" munincipal water system, chlorine should be at a very low residual at the faucet. The aerator in your faucet is designed to theoretically gas off chlorine when it flows. If you cant smell chlorine, then it is probably a low residual concentration. If you can smell it, it would be a good idea to at least test the ppm concentration so it doesnt kill off BB and fish.
Just my opinion.
thanks. i really wanted to do be able to drill the tanks and just do elbows but as all tanks are glass and running the overflow idea was much more practical for me. ive tesed the chlorine and it was on the low scale of the water report of .2-1.2 ppm and to what my conditioners requested but will more than like throw a carbon block just to be safe inb thenear future. but in the past with small changes i havent used conditioners with no ill effects. none of my fish are sensitive and all pretty hardy and they are loving the drip and me not having to mess with them.
it saves to much work the drip system no heavy buckets :thumbsup:
trying to decide to do it this way or drilling the 50g in double stand and where to drill them.

highly recommended. its nice to wake up and not have to spend an hour changing out water.
 
can someone draw me a diagram of how that overflow works? i know how one usually works but i guess cause it cant see the insides i cant understand it :(
 
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