electrical outlet question..

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
ok i'll check the watts and model type and come back later
 
Red Devil;1173108; said:
I just read this to my hubby..thanks for putting this info up.. the only thing is how can you prevent this completly?
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Your welcome. I don't know how you could completely eliminate the potental in a damp area. All that I have seen happened outside on construction sites where the cord end was in water, rain, snow etc.

Some new electrical codes have started requiring Arc fault circut breakers in bedrooms, but I don't think those would pertain to this sitsuation.
 
that is the code here in canada and they are also used for hot tubs and jacuzzis, but i warn you they are not cheap for a 15 amp arc fault breaker it's approx 75$ well at least in canada... things seem 2 be a little less expensive in the states
 
torontoleafs_rock;1173224; said:
that is the code here in canada and they are also used for hot tubs and jacuzzis, but i warn you they are not cheap for a 15 amp arc fault breaker it's approx 75$ well at least in canada... things seem 2 be a little less expensive in the states
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Really hot tubs and jacuzzis? I'll have to check the NEC but if true then it could pertain to damp locations.
 
Bderick67;1173208; said:
Your welcome. I don't know how you could completely eliminate the potental in a damp area. All that I have seen happened outside on construction sites where the cord end was in water, rain, snow etc.

Some new electrical codes have started requiring Arc fault circut breakers in bedrooms, but I don't think those would pertain to this sitsuation.
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I did hear of the new circuit breakers too..my electrician is coming back and we will discuss all that too, thanks!
 
I have a degree in electronics and biomedical electronics, and I deal with hospital grade electronic circuits every day. I have to adhere to very strict regulations and they're not there for fun. NFPA and NEC have good reasons to lay out the guidelines that are there.

Let me say this:

You can not diagnose electrical circuits online. Bderick and Liz are right. You can not be too careful. 120vac accounts for the most electrical deaths. Don't be scared of it, but respect it. Take the time to understand what you're dealing with and don't rely on GFCI and other forms of protection to keep you safe.

For the earlier comment, I didn't pay much attention to Science class, but I do pay attention to Ohms law, NFPA, and NEC.
 
rallysman;1173273; said:
I have a degree in electronics and biomedical electronics, and I deal with hospital grade electronic circuits every day. I have to adhere to very strict regulations and they're not there for fun. NFPA and NEC have good reasons to lay out the guidelines that are there.

Let me say this:

You can not diagnose electrical circuits online. Bderick and Liz are right. You can not be too careful. 120vac accounts for the most electrical deaths. Don't be scared of it, but respect it. Take the time to understand what you're dealing with and don't rely on GFCI and other forms of protection to keep you safe.

For the earlier comment, I didn't pay much attention to Science class, but I do pay attention to Ohms law, NFPA, and NEC.
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this ibew electrician thinks you gave great advise..gfi's arent really suited for motor loads such and water pumps..nuciance tripping in my experince..perhaps a ground probe in the sump would be sufficent protection..it would be the path to ground instead of a innocent hobbiest putting his hand in his tank..
 
Hey guys..sorry for the delay..
Even though you told me not to use an extension cord..i just realized that once I get my tank stand, the cords won't be able to reach the outlet..

I currently have..
-whisper in-tank filter 40i
-tetrafauna aquatic reptile heater(this will be changed to a 150W stealth heater)
-clamp lamp(occasionally turned on)

Now I want to install these..
-RENA filstar canister filter XP1
-AZOO powerhead Model 1200

Or I can take those items off the list and temporarely substitute with this..
-ZOOMED 501 turtle filter
 
No worries - 3 or 4 amps depending on the size of the heater and light.

Just check the cords and make sure they are in good condition, no frays or spilts and no hot spots / discolouration anywhere along the cables. That could indicate a poor connection someplace that could corrode, arc, heat up and potentially catch fire. Providing all your cabling is in good condition, and you keep it dry, it will be pretty safe :)

Cheers

Ian
 
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