Ewurm

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180 dual corner overflow with herbie drains. 40 breeder for the sump. Jebao dc12000 running at max split into 2 the split again with a locline y for 4 inlets. Haven't got the inlets adjusted well enough to keep all the particles floating into the overflows. As far as pics I'll post a few, can't really see the returns due to black background.
IMG_1044.JPG IMG_1046.JPG IMG_1052.JPG IMG_0060.JPG
 
That's a lot of current, did you turn it down a bit.? It is adjustable from 3000 to 12,000. We can Jebao but is overhead filter only
 
Well if you have competent filtration then a couple hydor wavemakers or an equivalent just to give them a stream to play in and your good. Really as long as your filtration is adequate then the clowns will be happy. Extra flow/fake or real plants/pipes are all just additions to give them some stimulators.

Dead spots with little to no flow can be cured with a simple airstone.

Almost forgot, it is very important not to use gravel or large substrates. I think sand is best but if you're thinking planted then dirt is ok. Clowns like to bury themselves in the sand. IME light sand and dark background has given them their best color. I had them on black sand and they got so dark that they looked ill and unattractive.
 
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I've kept my bunch for about 5 years now. My bits and pieces of opinion below.

My way is lots of filtration - about 10x the volume of water an hour at manufacturer's stated rate in external filters. They like flow but not the kind of flow from powerheads with a directional flow. I actually turned of my powerhead years ago and the clowns got more outgoing since..You're aiming at something in the middle which 9-10X in filtration through the media of the filters....and don't forget good surface agitation...

The optimum temperature for clown loaches is 26C (78.8 F) based on scientific papers.

Ph and water hardness does not matter but needs to be stable.

My advise is get a TDS meter for water testing and don't let it increase by more than 20-30ppm weekly. Ideally it won't increase by more than 5-15ppm. Do weekly 50% water changes at least, the more the better. Keep the TDS value of the tank water to almost the same as the tap water(which is your base point) over the years!!

The tank should have a lot of objects around that act as hiding spots..caves and such. PVC pipes are best. They also like weaving themselves around tank furniture, breaks the line of sight which helps them be more outgoing. Branches of wood help too.

Chockful O Phail mentioned light sand and dark background and I also think that brings out the best of their colour. The black diminishes light reflection which can make them skittish and the light sand is essential for their best colour. Dark substrate makes them release quite an unpleasant pigment that goes over their orange parts. And they should never be in a gravel tank. They sift through the sand...lie over it, etc...and their skin is like velvelt....very soft and gentle unlike other fish of any kind..

I've always kept mine in planted tank but they do pinch holes in plant leaves. However, I do keep mine with emersed plants mostly and I hightly recommend it for those that want an open top tank, helps a lot with water quality. See pic below of mine at the moment.

When you get your big bunch of baby clowns I recommend you place them in a very well cycled tank that can handle the bioload straight away( you can do fishless cycling with ammonia first)

Do drip acclimate the fish. Use a TDS meter and slowly drip water from the main tank(topping it up in the mean time) to a large dark bucket covered from light until the TDS of the bucket matches the TDS of the tank(may need to remove some bucket water often enough). It should take no more than 2hrs depending on source water and tank water. If you're afraid of ammonia being released by the fish, add a bit of Prime to the bucket. Do not float the fish prior to that in the tank!!! Pour them directly in a bucket with their original water....This really gives you the best of chances to avoid clown loaches loss and avoid white spot!!! 9 out of 10 times you'll avoid subsequent diseases if you do the right thing from the start!!

Then once the fish are in the tank, get yourself ready for massive water changes for at least 1.5 months...every day or every second day I'd go 50-70% changes and on lazy days do at least 30% but just keep doing them!!!
If you follow that routine, providing the tank is also well cycled, I'd be surprised if you loose any fish, or at least not majority depending how well you pick your bunch.

The key to baby clown loaches is an established tank, perfect water quality(by means of water changes and a TDS meter by my opinion), lots of filtration and surface agitation, quality pellet food and some bloodworms, lots of cover around the tank..and snails...Get that snail population going while you've got no clown loaches in the tank yet....

In terms of meds, I would not jump on that ship unless you have a reason(and don't panic if you happen to have a reason...think and research, ask first)...My 5 year olds have never been treated for anything bar hexamita as part of a round treatment..And I've done the same for all baby clown loaches as a precaution. NLS hex shield pellets would work for that easily and the fish quite like them. Its just a 3 day treatment.....not necessary though...You can wait first...

When feeding them, they like routine. If you feed at the same time each day they learn and they'd be coming out like clockwork...Try to hand feed from the start...they'll learn that too and be less afraid of you. That's if you have time to spare. Same applies for light hours, get a timer. The clowns do not like bright light, especially older clowns but they'd be out like clockwork just before the timer switches off the lights

I think I gave more than the asked amount of info :) I just wanted to because it has worked and its been working well for me....Knock on wood(my wooden head) :) but I haven't lost a clown loach yet. I currently have 10 I bought over the last 5 years.

My current setup that the clowns are mad about. Its their 3rd tank over the years...and the best so far based on my observations(they were in glass tanks up until about 5 months ago) I found out they love space in all directions :), play like kids, and the dark sides too which they use as cover and really makes them super outgoing...The substrate is fine enough light sand....as I suggested previously, its the best substrate, a thin layer is just fine...

Good luck with yours...I am sure you'll love the clowns.

20170118_205444_zps5o2tzbwp.jpg
 
Last edited:
I've kept my bunch for about 5 years now. My bits and pieces of opinion below.

My way is lots of filtration - about 10x the volume of water an hour at manufacturer's stated rate in external filters. They like flow but not the kind of flow from powerheads with a directional flow. I actually turned of my powerhead years ago and the clowns got more outgoing since..You're aiming at something in the middle which 9-10X in filtration through the media of the filters....and don't forget good surface agitation...

The optimum temperature for clown loaches is 26C (78.8 F) based on scientific papers.

Ph and water hardness does not matter but needs to be stable.

My advise is get a TDS meter for water testing and don't let it increase by more than 20-30ppm weekly. Ideally it won't increase by more than 5-15ppm. Do weekly 50% water changes at least, the more the better. Keep the TDS value of the tank water to almost the same as the tap water(which is your base point) over the years!!

The tank should have a lot of objects around that act as hiding spots..caves and such. PVC pipes are best. They also like weaving themselves around tank furniture, breaks the line of sight which helps them be more outgoing. Branches of wood help too.

Chockful O Phail mentioned light sand and dark background and I also think that brings out the best of their colour. The black diminishes light reflection which can make them skittish and the light sand is essential for their best colour. Dark substrate makes them release quite an unpleasant pigment that goes over their orange parts. And they should never be in a gravel tank. They sift through the sand...lie over it, etc...and their skin is like velvelt....very soft and gentle unlike other fish of any kind..

I've always kept mine in planted tank but they do pinch holes in plant leaves. However, I do keep mine with emersed plants mostly and I hightly recommend it for those that want an open top tank, helps a lot with water quality. See pic below of mine at the moment.

When you get your big bunch of baby clowns I recommend you place them in a very well cycled tank that can handle the bioload straight away( you can do fishless cycling with ammonia first)

Do drip acclimate the fish. Use a TDS meter and slowly drip water from the main tank(topping it up in the mean time) to a large dark bucket covered from light until the TDS of the bucket matches the TDS of the tank(may need to remove some bucket water often enough). It should take no more than 2hrs depending on source water and tank water. If you're afraid of ammonia being released by the fish, add a bit of Prime to the bucket. Do not float the fish prior to that in the tank!!! Pour them directly in a bucket with their original water....This really gives you the best of chances to avoid clown loaches loss and avoid white spot!!! 9 out of 10 times you'll avoid subsequent diseases if you do the right thing from the start!!

Then once the fish are in the tank, get yourself ready for massive water changes for at least 1.5 months...every day or every second day I'd go 50-70% changes and on lazy days do at least 30% but just keep doing them!!!
If you follow that routine, providing the tank is also well cycled, I'd be surprised if you loose any fish, or at least not majority depending how well you pick your bunch.

The key to baby clown loaches is an established tank, perfect water quality(by means of water changes and a TDS meter by my opinion), lots of filtration and surface agitation, quality pellet food and some bloodworms, lots of cover around the tank..and snails...Get that snail population going while you've got no clown loaches in the tank yet....

In terms of meds, I would not jump on that ship unless you have a reason(and don't panic if you happen to have a reason...think and research, ask first)...My 5 year olds have never been treated for anything bar hexamita as part of a round treatment..And I've done the same for all baby clown loaches as a precaution. NLS hex shield pellets would work for that easily and the fish quite like them. Its just a 3 day treatment.....not necessary though...You can wait first...

When feeding them, they like routine. If you feed at the same time each day they learn and they'd be coming out like clockwork...Try to hand feed from the start...they'll learn that too and be less afraid of you. That's if you have time to spare. Same applies for light hours, get a timer. The clowns do not like bright light, especially older clowns but they'd be out like clockwork just before the timer switches off the lights

I think I gave more than the asked amount of info :) I just wanted to because it has worked and its been working well for me....Knock on wood(my wooden head) :) but I haven't lost a clown loach yet. I currently have 10 I bought over the last 5 years.

My current setup that the clowns are mad about. Its their 3rd tank over the years...and the best so far based on my observations(they were in glass tanks up until about 5 months ago) I found out they love space in all directions :), play like kids, and the dark sides too which they use as cover and really makes them super outgoing...The substrate is fine enough light sand....as I suggested previously, its the best substrate, a thin layer is just fine...

Good luck with yours...I am sure you'll love the clowns.

20170118_205444_zps5o2tzbwp.jpg
Wow. You have a whole pond!
My aquarium is 180 gallons. I have 2 pump on the filters. 1 1700. At 1 2500 liter per hour. But it is gentle. Perhaps I agitate it more because all of my pumps go the my filters and back to my tank. We Will see what happens. Fingers crossed.
 
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Hey smjack. My pond is no more than 240G and I don't fill it up to the top, current guess 200G. A 180G tank is a great tank for a bunch of small loaches that have plenty of room to grow in !!
I started with less.
All the best to you and your new loaches.
 
Hey smjack. My pond is no more than 240G and I don't fill it up to the top, current guess 200G. A 180G tank is a great tank for a bunch of small loaches that have plenty of room to grow in !!
I started with less.
All the best to you and your new loaches.
I have a 180 gallon cichlid tank with severums which is having circulation problems. My metal stand is also not up to par. So I have to deal with the stand 1st. Then I can put the news loaches in and 50 gallon tank temporarily. Buying a 2nd 180 is not a problem. Fixing a stand and a 180 gallon with circulation problems is. Thanks Cory and others
 
180 dual corner overflow with herbie drains. 40 breeder for the sump. Jebao dc12000 running at max split into 2 the split again with a locline y for 4 inlets. Haven't got the inlets adjusted well enough to keep all the particles floating into the overflows. As far as pics I'll post a few, can't really see the returns due to black background.
View attachment 1229041 View attachment 1229042 View attachment 1229043 View attachment 1229044
Can you tell me what is the thing you are holding? Brand? On the 2nd picture. I want to try to find it here in the Philippines. Thanks Chock
 
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