Feeding?

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
Simple after you get the right info, Lots of fresh water and lots of food will keep them well, Rays love worms, next it will be getting them to eat something cheaper like shrimp, then the challenge of pellets , then upgrade tank, then buy 2 more rays, upgrade tank again. Never ends. :-)
 
Hers some new pics.... Maybe someone could help ID them?

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They just ate very well again, even the little guy. With the big one, as long as the worm is near, he goes to get it. With the little one I gotta have the worm right in front of him, and gently lift up his front, although lately he will lift it slightly, then let it go and he sucks it under him.

They are so awesome :)

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Ok my levels are all over the place.

Now it's:

Ph: 7.2-7.6
Ammonia: .25
Nitrite: 2-5 (colors on the card are almost indistinguishable)
Nitrate: 40-80

I know ammonia and nitrites should be 0, what is my goal for Ph? And nitrates, less than 40 is good? What should I aim for?

Ugh...such a bad change from this morning. I want to do another big water change, but we had a water main break today and my water is barely a trickle. Hopefully they get it repaired soon.

They are still eating well, not active as yesterday right now, but still taking food whenever I offer it.

Now when I do a water change and add the prime conditioner, it renders the bad stuff safe but it will still read bad, am I right about that?

Other than frequent water changes and adding the salt, is there anything anyone recommends I add to the water to help get my parameters under control?

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pH is fine, more where I would've expected it.
Ammonia isn't super bad.
Nitrite - really depends if it's 2 or 5. 2 is survivable with the salt, 5 would be concerning and warrant a water change.
Nitrate is fine, you don't even need to test this right now, only later on when the cycle is complete and you're determining a water change regime.

Yes, Prime will help protect against the ammonia but the ammonia level will still read on the API test.

Those params are not too bad unless nitrite is really 5, in which case if your water main returns and isn't dirty from the broken main, yes, do another change.
 
Ok, gonna test again cause I do it obsessively. Want to do at least a 25% water change, but gonna wait til tomorrow. The water main break has me holding off. Water is back to full pressure, but sometimes it's a bit cloudyish after they mess with the lines.

Outta curiosity, and from reading other threads, tested my tap waters pH: 7.6

Tank pH: too damn high... It's bluer than the highest, 7.6. Should I test with the high range drops, so I know exactly what it is?

Ammonia : between 0 and .25

Nitrite : took a pic. My eyes must be bad cuz on this card, 2 and 5 look identical.

I need some tips on stabilizing my pH, as well as what I want it stabilized at. My ammonia is getting under control. Nitrites, other than salt and water changes, is there anything else I can do to bring those levels down?

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What is the Ph from your tap water??

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Seems like with the more food your feeding the filtration is not keeping up. Rays need the very best filtration and lots of it.

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Gonna look into adding a canister filter. It's really my only option abuse I don't have enough room on tank to add any more power filters.

Any suggestions, reasonably priced? I love the sound if the fx5 but that's something I need to save up for. I added an emperor 400 already.

I have been seeing posts about sponge filters... Would adding some help, or not so much with rays?

How much pH fluctuation can rays withstand? My big ray is very active and eating (and pooping lol) very well. The little one is eating, but hesitantly, and no where near as active.

Should I buy some pH stabilizing stuff?

Also, they are loving these nightcrawlers. Should I stick with them or are blackworms better for them? I found local blackworms, but don't wanna switch if not necessary. Are ghost shrimp important too? If so I will get mm ore tomorrow too.

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