I'm re-thinking my filtration. Should I remove the canister entirely(lessen the head on the pump) and install filter socks? Filter socks are finer than most sponges/floss i would run in the canister, so having the canister would be pointless if I added socks to the intake on the sump, correct?
Finally joining the club
- Thread starter rokit_armor
- Start date
The trickle filter looks like this on the backside
Not sure how to fit a sock into that configuration, unless I T my intake into one pipe on one sock, but then the sock will still be 80% below the water line.
Not sure how to fit a sock into that configuration, unless I T my intake into one pipe on one sock, but then the sock will still be 80% below the water line.
soooo.... is it OK to have filter socks below the water line, or do I need to mount them above the thing?
http://www.aquatraders.com/Holder-Bracket-for-4-filter-sock-p/79043.htm
Will the single 1" input on this sock holder be enough for the 1100 gph that should be running through the sump?
Will the single 1" input on this sock holder be enough for the 1100 gph that should be running through the sump?
OK so I ordered the sock holder and two pairs of 4" socks. I also ordered two of the 36" 117W T5 HO Trio Deluxe Light Fixture w/Built-in Digital Timer (FW/ Planted) and a 500w heater from AT. I'll review these items when they come, i have heard mixed reviews of Odyssea products. I also ordered some cerium oxide and a felt polishing pad to see if I can polish out the minor scratches and at least remove the edge from the larger scratches. Stand build begins on Saturday, woot!
You made a great choice with filter socks. I find that filter socks work better as in do not clog as fast when they are above water but beware then the sock is clogged to not have water overflow to the floor. Some of my socks are mostly submerged and they work great also but seem to clog a little faster ime.
Doing some late-night research and I'm thinking I want to do a herbie overflow. Since I have two overflows each with two bulkhead holes (1.5" hole & 1.75" holes on each side(.75" and 1" pipes respectively) how would I set this up? 1.75"s as the main drains in each overflow, 1.5" on one side as return and the other 1.5" as emergency? This means if the other overflow without the emergency has an issue the whole overflow will fill up... this shouldn't be a concern as all the water will just flow out to the other overflow right? Also some people have mentioned that the herbie pipes need to be sized correctly? would two 1" drain pipes be enough for 1100 gph?
Made some progress yesterday and today!
Sorry for the horrible blackberry pics.
This is from yesterday, my phone died today and I couldn't get any pics from todays progress. I'll take some more photos tomorrow.
Should be done with the woodwork on my next day off, Tuesday, hopefully I'll at least get it in primer and maybe a coat or two of paint.
I SNAFU'd the tank canopy, i made the 2x2 frame to fit the outer dimentions of the tank (84.5 x 24.5) but forgot that the glass will need to be able to open
. The frame extends about 3/4" over the lip where the glass sets.... Can I just leave the glass doors and stuff off and hang the lights from the top of the canopy, or does anyone have any different suggestions?
Sorry for the horrible blackberry pics.
This is from yesterday, my phone died today and I couldn't get any pics from todays progress. I'll take some more photos tomorrow.
Should be done with the woodwork on my next day off, Tuesday, hopefully I'll at least get it in primer and maybe a coat or two of paint.
I SNAFU'd the tank canopy, i made the 2x2 frame to fit the outer dimentions of the tank (84.5 x 24.5) but forgot that the glass will need to be able to open
. The frame extends about 3/4" over the lip where the glass sets.... Can I just leave the glass doors and stuff off and hang the lights from the top of the canopy, or does anyone have any different suggestions?
If it were me I would put plywood on top for torsional strength. I would probably have done the corners with another 2x4 down the entire length, again for side to side strength rather than it not being able to support the weight. I think it will work fine how you have done it though.
