First ply tank- from 130 to 200 gals

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
the fibreglass is really just for strength. If you're planning to still paint with some kind of epoxy it'll probably be altight as it is. If you're worried about it just sand it a bit with some really coarse paper and brush another coat of straight resin on.
 
ok but it's not the fiber that i'm worried of. it's the parts of the tank that were vertical and where the resin didn't stay long enough to stick there. if you look the last pic i posted, we see that the black resin did not stay on the edge of the brace's holes.

see what i mean? it's mostly there that i'm not sure if i should do another, thicker coat so it doesn't slide down the edge before it dries.
 
use a thickening agent with the resin in the rc airplane world we use micro balloons it is a very fine power made from microscopic glass balls it makes the resin thicker so it will cling to the vertical walls
 
I love the tank! I am new to this and want to do one myself, is it safe to just fiberglass the inside or do you have to put a coat of something else inside to finish it. Is the fiberglass ok for fish or is it toxic?

Thanks; Andrew
 
well, the fiber glass itself is not waterproof. in facts, FG is just the material, its like some ripped glass and in my case, ripped glass put into a sort of cloth. you must put some sort of resin to it so it chimically becomes solid. epoxy resin is 100% waterproof so we use, or at least I used epoxy resin with my fiberglass. you could only use epoxy resin, but the fiber makes the wood stiffer. only use fiberglass if you build a real big tank. i think i could of use only resin or other sealant like gel coat or liquid rubber. the thing is, i wanted to build some experience with fiberglass since i plan on larger projects in a near future.
 
tanks for the comments!

ok so i've done the last resin touches on the tank and i'm ready to order the glass!

still hesitating between 10 and 12mm

here would be the dimensions and prices:

83 1/4" x 23 1/4"
10mm: 125,56$
12mm: 175,56$

it's only a 50 bucks difference, but still, it's the equivalent of the price my background will cost me! There's also the weight issue, but safety comes first. i think 10mm has a safety coefficient over 2.5 getting real close to 3 so... not bad...

what you think? does the width of the window brace affects the thickness i should take as for the window itself?

i only have one inch on each sides and 1 and a half top and bottom.
 
man... bad news! the window doesn't fit into the hole!

i thought it would pass when inclined, but nope, no way!

so i think this is my best solution now...

this is where i think its the best to cut without loosing too much strenght to the bracing






i plan to cut strips of 1" and glue them back with wood glues. i would then put another layer of fiberglass so the bracing keeps the window from bowing.


so, better ideas?
 
I don't think wood glue and fiberglass would be a good idea to hold those braces under the water pressure.
Personally, I would fully cut out the 2 center braces and drop the glass through the top on an angle and fix the glass in place.
While I was waiting for the silicone to cure, I would build a new brace frame out of 3/4" ply, coat it in the required fiberglass and attach it to the top of the tank. Then silicone seal the gap between the 2.

Here some photos of mine....

DSC04119.JPG

DSC04183.JPG
 
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