Fish Room and Indoor Pond 24' by 7' by 4'
- Thread starter AW7020
- Start date
kumdoalan;1689792; said:
That perfectly fine. It's some times hard on the net to realise that it can be quite a different set of climate. For me it is some time hard to imagine having 4 seasons of spring summer autumn and winter (especially winter)
you sort of get used to your local conditions rather easily. The indoor pond will be dug quite close to the water level here as the contractor mentioned that have to be done to ensure the wooden piles remain wetted for a longer life. (i cannot understand his logic) But according to the contractor that type of wood need it to maintain its strength over the years.
cheers. next week we should see some action when they start work.
gobucks1;1692513; said:that sounds sweet ,but can koi live in that warm of water?
The air temp ranges from 28- 33 deg Celcius. However the water in the indoor pond is out of the direct sun shine and also the main water volume is in touch with the ground giving it a rather stable temp of about 27-29 celcius. This was measured using the PH meter which comes with a temp sensor as well from my current pond which you can see from an earlier post.
That is ok for the Koi but most of the hobbist here say it affect their color and so they are not so brilliantly colored. Possibly better in Japan where they can get rather cooler temp.
My intention is just for a mix of various larger fish like the aro, cichlids etc..
Here are some thoughts b4 the work get started. btw any comments are welcome as they will help in the final results.
First a pic of what would (dreaming?) would be the final completion which would be many many moons more. The initial part would be the making of the fish room with the integrated indoor pond with outside filter. In the fish room would be more tanks for quarantine, hospic, recovery and prehaps breeding? (At a much much later stage.)
Steps
Excavation for the room columns first, followed by excavating the pool.
The contractor would be building the indoor pool by laying a wooden piling over the area of the pool which is estimated to hold about 13 tons of water.
Over this wood piles would be laid a (RC) reinforced concrete floor with a water proofed cement mix. With the Pipes laid b4 pouring the mix.
Then a 4' high pond wall jig would be build over the rc floor. The pond wall would also be RC again with water proofing.
During this stage the wall seperating the indoor pool from the outside filter will be done.
Next would be the water proof cement plaster on the pool walls and floor.
We planned to use colored cement for the final layer on top of the plaster instead of tiles which was thought of in the beginning.
The Fish room would also be taking shape while this is going on. That part of the work will include the windows, doors, flooring, roofing. I do not know which will be done or the order. The contractor will make the necessary sequencing of the works.
The electrical and plumbing works would be done with separate lines for both independant of the original supplies from the municipal to the current house.
The roof being rc would be use to hold 2 water tanks for use as and when necessary.
BTw the pic are just concepts, the actual items may turn out rather different. LOL
First a pic of what would (dreaming?) would be the final completion which would be many many moons more. The initial part would be the making of the fish room with the integrated indoor pond with outside filter. In the fish room would be more tanks for quarantine, hospic, recovery and prehaps breeding? (At a much much later stage.)
Steps
Excavation for the room columns first, followed by excavating the pool.
The contractor would be building the indoor pool by laying a wooden piling over the area of the pool which is estimated to hold about 13 tons of water.
Over this wood piles would be laid a (RC) reinforced concrete floor with a water proofed cement mix. With the Pipes laid b4 pouring the mix.
Then a 4' high pond wall jig would be build over the rc floor. The pond wall would also be RC again with water proofing.
During this stage the wall seperating the indoor pool from the outside filter will be done.
Next would be the water proof cement plaster on the pool walls and floor.
We planned to use colored cement for the final layer on top of the plaster instead of tiles which was thought of in the beginning.
The Fish room would also be taking shape while this is going on. That part of the work will include the windows, doors, flooring, roofing. I do not know which will be done or the order. The contractor will make the necessary sequencing of the works.
The electrical and plumbing works would be done with separate lines for both independant of the original supplies from the municipal to the current house.
The roof being rc would be use to hold 2 water tanks for use as and when necessary.
BTw the pic are just concepts, the actual items may turn out rather different. LOL
This is the tentative design for the filter system with help from this post by Road Warrior http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=136329
Let me know what you think of this conceptual design.
The dimensions for each stage is as follows.
The width and depth are the same for the Mech/Vortex Length 36", Bio 1 Length 24" , Bio 2 Length 24" and Sump Length 18". Width 30" Depth of water 36"
Two pumps would be used. One giving 1K USG/hr and the other 3K USG/hr.
The 3K USG would only be on for 3 time a day each time for an hour. The 1K USG pump would be on continuously.
Mech/ Vortex Chamber would include Coarse Japanese Matting and a single 2" thick black open core foam to trap suspended and solid matter. This is expected to be cleaned every week.
Bio 1 would consists of Coarse Japanese Matting
Bio 2 would consists of Fine Japanese Matting
The final Bio Section which is the Bakki Shower (DIY) would be 4 tiered
with each tier holding 10KG of the filter media.
The outlet from the Bakki shower would intially be passed directly back into the pond but planned to add in a protein skimmer and/or UV later.
Let me know what are your suggestions, critique good and bad. Thanks
Let me know what you think of this conceptual design.
The dimensions for each stage is as follows.
The width and depth are the same for the Mech/Vortex Length 36", Bio 1 Length 24" , Bio 2 Length 24" and Sump Length 18". Width 30" Depth of water 36"
Two pumps would be used. One giving 1K USG/hr and the other 3K USG/hr.
The 3K USG would only be on for 3 time a day each time for an hour. The 1K USG pump would be on continuously.
Mech/ Vortex Chamber would include Coarse Japanese Matting and a single 2" thick black open core foam to trap suspended and solid matter. This is expected to be cleaned every week.
Bio 1 would consists of Coarse Japanese Matting
Bio 2 would consists of Fine Japanese Matting
The final Bio Section which is the Bakki Shower (DIY) would be 4 tiered
with each tier holding 10KG of the filter media.
The outlet from the Bakki shower would intially be passed directly back into the pond but planned to add in a protein skimmer and/or UV later.
Let me know what are your suggestions, critique good and bad. Thanks
I think it more than would suffice. Congrats on a very fine project!
Watch out so the Aro's don't jump out of the tank.
Watch out so the Aro's don't jump out of the tank.
We are expecting the contractor to take about 3 months to finish the project. So bear with us as we start the pictures of the ground breaking.
A few more angles of the site from the road which also shows the wood piles which will be used to support the rc concrete foundation as well as the pond base. They are a local type of wood called Bakau and according to the contractor these will serve very well in this area as the water table is just about 4-6' below the surface. This type of wood maintain its strength and integrity when water is present to keep it wetted. If dried the wood will be brittle and liable to breaks etc...
The Blue Box out line will be where the indoor pond would be sited. half above ground and half below ground.
Any way on to the pics.
A few more angles of the site from the road which also shows the wood piles which will be used to support the rc concrete foundation as well as the pond base. They are a local type of wood called Bakau and according to the contractor these will serve very well in this area as the water table is just about 4-6' below the surface. This type of wood maintain its strength and integrity when water is present to keep it wetted. If dried the wood will be brittle and liable to breaks etc...
The Blue Box out line will be where the indoor pond would be sited. half above ground and half below ground.
Any way on to the pics.
