I'm amazed that I am the first to ask.. Since you have one made and have figured out all of the issues etc; how hard would it be to talk you into making one more but doing a video of the construction with measurements and a simple walkthrough of the cutting and assembly? This is quite possibly one of the nicest DIY overflows I have ever seen.
Flood Proof and 100% Silent HOB Overflow
- Thread starter CHOMPERS
- Start date
Thanks for the complement. For now I'll have to pass on the offer. I don't have anyone willing to hold the camera for that long and it takes two hands to operate the power tools (sometimes three). Also, the materials that I am hoarding are probably going to be used to build an algae scrubber.
With a short stretch of the imagination, this can be duplicated. Measurements are not that important considering that this was customized to fit on the end of a 75g. If I were to post the sizes, it would only be good for the end of another 75g. Also, I designed this for 600 gph.
What is more important, is to do the math for each section and customize the overflow to fit a particular need or application. This can be adapted for any sized tank.
With a short stretch of the imagination, this can be duplicated. Measurements are not that important considering that this was customized to fit on the end of a 75g. If I were to post the sizes, it would only be good for the end of another 75g. Also, I designed this for 600 gph.
What is more important, is to do the math for each section and customize the overflow to fit a particular need or application. This can be adapted for any sized tank.
CHOMPERS;2774121; said:
Regarding this picture, what do you have in the end of that pipe? How is the airline connected and is it there to provide air flow or just as an obstruction to keep the gurgling down?
edit.. guess I didn't get the image with it but I'm sure you know what I am asking about.
The airline allows air and water to enter the pipe individually. The water then acts as a cap to keep in any noise.
The clear disk is held up by three feet that are first glued to the disk and then to the pipe. That hole in the disk is where the airline goes. Nothing is inside the pipe except for the airline (the feet for the disk are glued to the end of the pipe).
The clear disk is held up by three feet that are first glued to the disk and then to the pipe. That hole in the disk is where the airline goes. Nothing is inside the pipe except for the airline (the feet for the disk are glued to the end of the pipe).
CHOMPERS;2777320; said:
Wow chompers you have really outdone yourself on this one. I love the efficiency and cleanliness of the design, and it's quiet while being overflow-proof at the same time! Create the proper jigs and hell I will even throw out my PVC one and purchase one of the badboys from you!
Wow Chompers!!
Not to take away from other DIY efforts, but this is easily the most impressive project that I have seen in a long time.
If I may ask, what type of "glue" did you use as a bonding agent?
Also, is your gang valve hooked to a device of any kind or did you just suck out the air and leave open air lines?
Not to take away from other DIY efforts, but this is easily the most impressive project that I have seen in a long time.
If I may ask, what type of "glue" did you use as a bonding agent?
Also, is your gang valve hooked to a device of any kind or did you just suck out the air and leave open air lines?
The best adhesive is Weldon #4 but to use it requires better router results than what I have been getting. I have hesitated to mention much about the adhesive that I used because I talk about it so much that I feel like a paid advertisement. Unfortunately, they aren't paying me. 
Anyway, it is Loctite Stik-N-Seal. It has a tensile strength of 566 psi, is water proof, and is clear.
The gang valve isn't hooked up to anything. I wasn't sure how often I would have to bleed the air out, but it looks like it won't be very often. It certainly won't justify an Aqualifter in my book.
Anyway, it is Loctite Stik-N-Seal. It has a tensile strength of 566 psi, is water proof, and is clear.The gang valve isn't hooked up to anything. I wasn't sure how often I would have to bleed the air out, but it looks like it won't be very often. It certainly won't justify an Aqualifter in my book.
If someone could draw this up on AutoCAD the drawing could be sent to a woodworking CNC Router and pieces would be cut out for exact fit in just a few minutes with repeatable accuracy and ultra smooth edges that need no finishing. Someone could sell these precut pcs. and a few plumbing parts to individual buyers who would invest some glue-up time and be rewarded with a wonderful overflow. That way the seller doesn't have a lot of time wrapped up in making this product. Great design CHOMPERS might want to patent that quick.
www.keimlumber.com does custom CNC routing for woodworkers and also ships UPS. Someone could really do this.
www.keimlumber.com does custom CNC routing for woodworkers and also ships UPS. Someone could really do this.
The airline tubing on the top is to prime the system at start up and to bleed air out periodically. If the system is operated at its minimum water level, it will produce micro bubbles that collect in the overflow chambers. If it is adjusted higher, no bubbles are produced. If I make another I will make the filter chamber a tad higher so that no bubbles can be formed.
The tube in the secondary overflow is to allow air into the water flow to cut down on gurgling noise. That only is an issue if the filter becomes totally clogged.
The tube in the secondary overflow is to allow air into the water flow to cut down on gurgling noise. That only is an issue if the filter becomes totally clogged.
