Help! Atlantic Stingray curling!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
If you're using strips to test the water, they might not be accurate. I'd go get an API water testing kit pronto. Those strips are pretty much worthless for accuracy.

I'd also beef up your water changes. They don't hurt and can only help.

Here's an article on the water changes from the last TFH magazine. I couldn't find a link to the article so I scanned it. I feel it has very important information in it. Small water changes are worthless.
http://speshuled.smugmug.com/Other/Water-Changes/9908331_4CHxL#675436671_gz8JZ
 
I think you're missing a key piece of information in either SW or FW, which is that if the tank is cycled, there should be NO ammonia present. The ammonia that's being produced would be turned into nitrite and then into nitrate, and nitrate is the only thing you'd find with any value at all. So, there's something wrong with biological filtration here, because you state that you're doing the weekly water change to remove ammonia and nitrate, when, in fact, you should have no ammonia at all. It's true that no one has to have a doctorate to own fish tanks, but there is still a lot of knowledge that has to be acquired, and this is very basic information. I'd definitely start doing some research. If you have the biological cycle working for you, converting ammonia and nitrite to nitrate, your experience is going to be much more enjoyable. In order to have that happen, you'll need to really look into your filtration and tank maintenance and figure out what's wrong with the bio.

Edit: The article that SpeshulEd recommends is excellent, as well. Definitely take the time to look over it!
 
SpeshulEd;3547619; said:
If you're using strips to test the water, they might not be accurate. I'd go get an API water testing kit pronto. Those strips are pretty much worthless for accuracy.

I'd also beef up your water changes. They don't hurt and can only help.

Here's an article on the water changes from the last TFH magazine. I couldn't find a link to the article so I scanned it. I feel it has very important information in it. Small water changes are worthless.
http://speshuled.smugmug.com/Other/Water-Changes/9908331_4CHxL#675436671_gz8JZ


ok, will do. I take the water into petsmart every once in a while. but ya, its test strips.
 
justonemoretank;3547621; said:
I think you're missing a key piece of information in either SW or FW, which is that if the tank is cycled, there should be NO ammonia present. The ammonia that's being produced would be turned into nitrite and then into nitrate, and nitrate is the only thing you'd find with any value at all. So, there's something wrong with biological filtration here, because you state that you're doing the weekly water change to remove ammonia and nitrate, when, in fact, you should have no ammonia at all. It's true that no one has to have a doctorate to own fish tanks, but there is still a lot of knowledge that has to be acquired, and this is very basic information. I'd definitely start doing some research. If you have the biological cycle working for you, converting ammonia and nitrite to nitrate, your experience is going to be much more enjoyable. In order to have that happen, you'll need to really look into your filtration and tank maintenance and figure out what's wrong with the bio.

Edit: The article that SpeshulEd recommends is excellent, as well. Definitely take the time to look over it!

Cool, thanks. Ok, if this species (atlantic ray) has large kidneys and produces a lot of urine and amonia, wouldnt that be the cause for small traces of amonia?
 
Heres where I'm confused. If the tank is cycled, there should be no amonia? But the fish produces huge amounts of amonia by urine and over working kidneys. So water change, water change, water change, right? what are we changing the water for, if not to remove the amonia

these post are confusing me.
 
Haha, I know. I have no idea why they don't just post it on their site, it would help out so many of us. I feel bad for scanning it, but its too informative not too.

The test strips do alright, but they're no where near as accurate as the api test kits. Seriously though, I don't think picking up on the water changes would hurt anything. Make sure you're using a dechlorinator like Prime or something. (actually, I'm not sure if you'd use that in a salt water tank, maybe someone else can chime in - I just know the city water is full of chlorine)

It may just be Arizona Water too. I've had issues with Pbass in the past and from what I could tell, I was doing everything right, but they still died one by one...except for the last one that still seems to have a death wish as he jumped out of the tank into my lap when I was feeding him about a week ago.
 
YIKES! I have soft water in my house. Some people say use the soft water when adding salt. Some people say no, stick to yard water and just use the appropriate de-chlorinaters. This is a full time job trying to sift through "who knows what" some people have sent me some nice emails breaking it down to basics for me without being condesending or assuming every person has been doing this for years like they have. Keep the hood down on your fish!!!!!!!!
 
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