Help! I can't stop this!

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
The fish that are dying all start with the small ICH like spots?

I have had weak Bettas that I purchased who have ICH and fix them up easily with heat and a bit of salt. Each time very easy to beat and never comes back. Fish always recover.

For ICH to kill it has to be very severe and for a fair bit of time feeding on the host.

I suspect this is something else. I wouldn't be raising tank temps that's forsure.
 
Here is a bad case of ick.

It was cured without raising the temp, simply using salt.
Salinity must must be at least 3ppt (per thousand) or it is not effective, this is at least 2.5 lbs of salt per 100 gallons.
I do not use the tsp per gallon method, for my system, it is poured by by the pound.
The problem I have with heat is that bacteria thrive at temps in the 80s, and the openings ick leave on the fish are perfect spots for bacteria to attach, and infect.
The angel in the pic looks to have a bacterial infection (and as stated could be columnaris, which becomes especially virulent at temps above 82'F)
Some people have had success using an antibiotic effective against gram neg bacteria.
Rather than take the chance of having it spread to my other tanks, I usually euthanize all fish in the columnaris tank, and bleach it, and everything that came into contact with it.
I know a bit drastic, but columnaris can go dormant and survive in damp dust for months, only to reappear if not totally eradicated.
 
If the illness is bacterial, raising the temp. probably won't help. It might even aggravate the problem.
You've noted that the illness starts with a multitude of Ick-
like spots; Oodinium / Velvet also starts that way. As it progresses the fish secretes excess whitish slime as a defense against the parasite. IMO, Oodinium is far worse than Ick and can be a tank killer. Velvet quickly destroys the gills, which leads to death. I've dealt with Oodinium only twice. I'd recommend a copper based med, like Coppersafe.
 
Here is a bad case of ick.

It was cured without raising the temp, simply using salt.
Salinity must must be at least 3ppt (per thousand) or it is not effective, this is at least 2.5 lbs of salt per 100 gallons.
I do not use the tsp per gallon method, for my system, it is poured by by the pound.
The problem I have with heat is that bacteria thrive at temps in the 80s, and the openings ick leave on the fish are perfect spots for bacteria to attach, and infect.
The angel in the pic looks to have a bacterial infection (and as stated could be columnaris, which becomes especially virulent at temps above 82'F)
Some people have had success using an antibiotic effective against gram neg bacteria.
Rather than take the chance of having it spread to my other tanks, I usually euthanize all fish in the columnaris tank, and bleach it, and everything that came into contact with it.
I know a bit drastic, but columnaris can go dormant and survive in damp dust for months, only to reappear if not totally eradicated.
Thanks Duanes. Yes, it started a bit like that. I'm between a rock and a hard place here. The main tank infected is 340 gallons and dirted for plants. The hatchets and others are nonsystematic and acting fine. Do I have another option?
 
That doesn't look like Ick to me. As noted, Oodiniums first symptom are clusters of fine spots. It ends with the fishes skin actually peeling off. The last symptom might be the
OP' s observation of the white slime substance on the body.
I've only seen the "white slime" symptom in association with Oodinium and Columnaris.
 
That doesn't look like Ick to me. As noted, Oodiniums first symptom are clusters of fine spots. It ends with the fishes skin actually peeling off. The last symptom might be the
OP' s observation of the white slime substance on the body.
I've only seen the "white slime" symptom in association with Oodinium and Columnaris.
The only thing is the tiny spots are white. Theee really isn’t a salt and pepper look. Based on this treating oodinium it sounds like I should keep the temp up and hope for the best?
 
It's such a difficult situation you're dealing with; an unidentified disease, unresponsive to available meds.
Where certain tankmates are apparently unaffected, but those who are die a swift ugly death.
Maybe it would be better to implement a "Cut & Run" strategy. Remove the obvious infected fish and try to save the rest. Raising the temp. Will only speed up the life cycle of the Ick parasite "If it is Ick" not kill it. Warmer water will likely accelerate a bacterial problem; "If it's a bacteria".
IMO, several thorough gravel vacs a week, to dilute what ever pathengen population your dealing with might be the best option. I'm sure not an easy task with a really big tank.
Good luck.
 
I had a similar problem with a polleni I had. I used a product called esha 2000 here in the UK, it worked when all my other meds had failed.
Might be worth a try.
 
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