Help me build my 540 gallon

  • We are currently upgrading MFK. thanks! -neo
That hammerhead may be a bit more flow than you think :) You're going to need to upgrade your drains from the tank for sure. I bought a Hammerhead for my 375, but ultimately backed down to a Dart. On a 540, you're going to get a TON of flow from the HH. However, they are among the best pumps available. You can always change the impeller to a Baracuda, and that will back you down a bit. If you feel like you need to, premiumaquatics.com was very helpful with my order.

Overflows are noisy depending on how you do the plumbing. Durso standpipes are noisy. PERIOD. A Herbie is a much better way, and MUCH more quiet. A Beananimal even better, but requires 3 holes. There are several examples if you do a quick search. I've posted several links in the past.
 
Having never owned a acrylic tank with overflow, I didnt realize I had to put pipes inside there at all. I am realizing that there will be much more to the plumbing than I originally thought. I have under estimated the complexity of plumbing such a large tank. I read the Herbie thread from reef central (my eyes are bleeding). I would like to take advantage of the tank height by filling the overflow with unsubmerged bio balls and the turnover rate provided by the HH. Not looking forward to trial and error if anyone has already done this and has suggestions please share. Thanks again for sharing
 
gavigan1;4751656; said:
Having never owned a acrylic tank with overflow, I didnt realize I had to put pipes inside there at all. I am realizing that there will be much more to the plumbing than I originally thought. I have under estimated the complexity of plumbing such a large tank. I read the Herbie thread from reef central (my eyes are bleeding). I would like to take advantage of the tank height by filling the overflow with unsubmerged bio balls and the turnover rate provided by the HH. Not looking forward to trial and error if anyone has already done this and has suggestions please share. Thanks again for sharing

Congratulations on your monster upgrade. You should contact Chromobotia. He has a 540 in-wall tank and is using a ReeFlo Hammerhead pump with his sump.
The ports on the Hammerhead are 1.5", so if you are using smaller pipe, things will be necked down. Valves can further control the flow rate. Don't be afraid of pipes in the overflow box. If you elect to only go with a sump, all of the plumbing can be hidden in the overflow box and under the canopy. Here's a pic of the back of our tank. On the left is the return from our mechanical filtration coming up through the overflow box and then re-entering the tank.

pipes-4.jpg
 
In the one overflow box we're using in our 300 gallon tank (2nd one is sealed off), the water runs down the sides of the overflow box. If we were to fill the overflow box with bioballs, only the ones touching the sides of the overflow box and at the bottom would get wet.
 
Now that I'm a fan of Discus this tanks makes for a PERFECT Discus tank...Love the height...

The area where it shows a lot of distress does it show through the acrylic or is that just the surface? Just to be safe I'd probably run a good bead of weld on inside the seams.

If your going to shove bioballs in the overflow, put them in a mesh net where you can easily remove them for rinsing. If not and if you don't rinse them and shift them around crap & un-eaten food can just build up and rot in there. May cause more problems than good.

I'm more of a fan of getting two pumps that would equal close 5800gph than having one. If one ever fails you at least have the other. Also, since your looking to run canisters, is your pump a pressure pump or flow pump. I'm not familiar with Hammerheads so just make sure it's a pressure pump.

As for UV I use to believe it in as far as having it in my tank. But now a days feel as they are just a luxury. Sure it helps with Algae or certain Pararsites but there are cheaper ways to combat this. I mean for parasites it has to be free floating and has to be a certain water flow for it to be effective when it runs pass the UV. What if the parasite is on the fish? how will it pass through the UV. As for algae, just turn off the lights..lol... For ponds I can see where its necessary since you cant turn off the sun. Anyways, just how I feel about UV's now a days. I've tried my tanks with them and without.... I can do without.
 
gavigan1;4750036; said:
Won a Reeflo Hammerhead 5800 gph pump on ebay :headbang2
:DVery nice killer that you won the Reeflow that discoloration is still bothering me a bit ..I hope you have left it filled and leave it for a week or so and take more pics at different angles so other guys can look and give opinions.The overflow teeth probably won't handle that kind of flow but check first by running it .You may have to take out by cutting a few teeth other wise your water level may rise faster then the teeth will allow the water to drain forcing you to throttle back your pump witch you don't want I woulld not put another overflow and take space ..And three 1 1/2 should do ya fine or like Pharoah mentioned redrill for larger Bulkheads ....And would definatly use a sump ......Also to not lose the valuable flow i would not reduce pipe size if anything increase the size to maximize your flow instead of restrict ......
 
Hey also i have some stuff i have to do right now ...But to give your eyes more redness look up CHOMPERS A MEMBER HERE ON SET UP AND FILTRATION.also onother guy on here but he is enough for right now LOL!!!!!! They are both very helfull when asking questons and know there stuff like i say check out his threads and i will pop in later tonight ....
 
The discoloration is within, where the panels join together. There does not seem to be any seperation between the panels. If the discoloration was seperation between the panels secondary to stress - I would think that it would start at the inner wall and move outward. This is not the case in pic 4. The acrylic is 1in thick and when I filled it there was very little bowing considering the 45in height (aprox. 1/8-1/4 in bow). I will try and get some better pics, hopefully someone has seen this before. I will definitely conduct a longer leak test and run a beed of weld on 16. Thanks for the help!
 
Thanks for all of the heads up. After doing some more research regarding acrylic tank leaks I think the discoloration along the seams is an area for concern. I purchased some weld 4 and applicator to apply along seams to be followed by weld 16.

I am thinking of staying with the 1 overflow and re-drilling holes to accomodate 2 x 1.5in bulk heads.... going to sump......to the Hammer head....check valve....1.5 piping split to 2 x 1.5in bulkheads in the base of the tank( shown in pics 6 and 7.


I am thinking of buying this from Harbor City Freight to help me buff out scratches

10" Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher

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gavigan1;4752816; said:
Thanks for all of the heads up. After doing some more research regarding acrylic tank leaks I think the discoloration along the seams is an area for concern. I purchased some weld 4 and applicator to apply along seams to be followed by weld 16.

I am thinking of staying with the 1 overflow and re-drilling holes to accomodate 2 x 1.5in bulk heads.... going to sump......to the Hammer head....check valve....1.5 piping split to 2 x 1.5in bulkheads in the base of the tank( shown in pics 6 and 7.


I am thinking of buying this from Harbor City Freight to help me buff out scratches

10" Random Orbit Waxer/Polisher

Email to a Friend


The buffer maters not to much if it does it's job the sponge head more so ..Check prices at your local auto and paint shop and check prices on the 3m buffing compound and finnesse it for clear coat swirls the compound do by hand on heavier scratches the use the finnese it with the buffer to go over the entire tank ....If you check the prices over the novus it should be cheaper...
 
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