HELP ME PLEASE!!

[bob965]

put air in the tank, raise up the heater increase the water temperature. the white poo problem i think ur talking about ick... see if raising the water temp to 88 degree will help. If it doesn't work in the next 2 days, pick up some ick medicine. and don't forget to do water change like 25% of water everyday. good luck

So now white poo is a sign of ich apparently, and you would have him add meds to his tank, and crank up his temperature, decreasing his oxygen levels when his fish is already stressed. Meanwhile, he has detectable ammonia and nitrite for some reason. Why do people just throw out answers without any thought or knowledge?

 

[Bderick67]

Amazing, white poo means ick

Do you poor fish a favor and do something about the ammonia. Unbelievable your fish are suffering from bad water conditions and you are going to throw unnecessary meds at them to further the problem.

 

[navygirl76]

OP-its obvious youre not a noob, but i just know that ick looks like you rolled the fish in sugar. if your fish dont look like that, i dont think its ick. you mention white feces, that usually means parasites. you mentioned you recently restocked the tank? if i understand that right, it would have triggered a mini cycle, i.e. causing the ammonia to jump and nitrites.. the bacterial load was too high and its compensating by creating a cycle. also, restocking or moving fish causes stress=vulnerability to disease.

I do NOT believe this is ick, and i wouldn't raise the temp (just fyi-to treat ick just raise the temp and use aquarium salt-dont ever waste money on ick meds) and add metronidazole (commonly called Flagyl). it is used to kill parasites, and is pretty common and cheap. add it in the food is the best way-as it works better if the fish ingests it than just floating in the water column. it will make your water blue green. ive found that metro works well.. but you do have to use it for the full time.

as a conditioner, you may want to start using Prime-its really the best out there that ive found. and since you do have ammonia-and any slight amount of ammonia is quite damaging to fish i would do a 50 percent waterchange before dosing with anti parasitic meds.

the gill movement and rapid breathing is due to stress and trying to compensate for the ammonia damage-and just being sick in general. the airstones dont really add O2 to the water per se, they just break up the surface area.

everyone on here has different advice as to what works for them-ive dealt with parasites and infections, so this is just what has worked for me. keep in mind that most meds used will kill the beneficial bacteria in the tank, so just be prepared if your parameters change..

right now, your number one priority should be addressing the ammonia problem-as it will kill your fish. and you do that thru waterchanges, then you worry about the disease.

 

[IveGotTheBestTank]

You're ignoring the possible root of the problem if you just dump meds. The problem could be related to water quality. It is THE most important. You haven't even diagnosed the problem yet. Jumping to conclusions will kill your fish.

put air in the tank, raise up the heater increase the water temperature. the white poo problem i think ur talking about ick... see if raising the water temp to 88 degree will help. If it doesn't work in the next 2 days, pick up some ick medicine. and don't forget to do water change like 25% of water everyday. good luck

Can you even read what that says or are you completely illiterate? Water changes, more air and raise in temp, meds in a few days if they are still showing symtoms. no one said anything about dumping loads of meds in and making rash decisions.... like i said earlier, if you are not going to actually help in anyway and just waste my time, jog on.

 

[justonemoretank]

I am not illiterate. In fact, I am six months away from a Bachelor's in English at one of the best schools in the country. I am also trying to be helpful, and you're not accepting it very graciously.

My point was that you're ignoring what could be the root of the problem. Your water quality sucks. Your tank isn't cycled. You're doing what every inexperienced aquarist does -- jumping on the "easy" fixes, instead of taking the time to really understand the nitrogen cycle and how it works.

You've really come into this with the wrong attitude, anyway. If you think that you're going to get the same quality of help with a bad attitude as a good one, you're seriously mistaken. We do this for free. Who wants to get treated like crap when they're volunteering their time?

In case you're not so blinded by your own anger that you're unable to accept real advice, here's a link that I think will be of some help:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwestcycling.htm

 

[IveGotTheBestTank]

OP-its obvious youre not a noob, but i just know that ick looks like you rolled the fish in sugar. if your fish dont look like that, i dont think its ick. you mention white feces, that usually means parasites. you mentioned you recently restocked the tank? if i understand that right, it would have triggered a mini cycle, i.e. causing the ammonia to jump and nitrites.. the bacterial load was too high and its compensating by creating a cycle. also, restocking or moving fish causes stress=vulnerability to disease.

I do NOT believe this is ick, and i wouldn't raise the temp (just fyi-to treat ick just raise the temp and use aquarium salt-dont ever waste money on ick meds) and add metronidazole (commonly called Flagyl). it is used to kill parasites, and is pretty common and cheap. add it in the food is the best way-as it works better if the fish ingests it than just floating in the water column. it will make your water blue green. ive found that metro works well.. but you do have to use it for the full time.

as a conditioner, you may want to start using Prime-its really the best out there that ive found. and since you do have ammonia-and any slight amount of ammonia is quite damaging to fish i would do a 50 percent waterchange before dosing with anti parasitic meds.

the gill movement and rapid breathing is due to stress and trying to compensate for the ammonia damage-and just being sick in general. the airstones dont really add O2 to the water per se, they just break up the surface area.

everyone on here has different advice as to what works for them-ive dealt with parasites and infections, so this is just what has worked for me. keep in mind that most meds used will kill the beneficial bacteria in the tank, so just be prepared if your parameters change..

right now, your number one priority should be addressing the ammonia problem-as it will kill your fish. and you do that thru waterchanges, then you worry about the disease.

i think there are white poos ( which i know means internal parasites but i am unsure of which )

I said i thought that it was that but no one made any feed back about it and just told me that my water quailty must be terrible and flamed me about being an ass. that was a very informative post and is exactly what i was looking for, i will start doing just that. Thank you very much Navygirl.

 

[Bderick67]

OP-its obvious youre not a noob, but i just know that ick looks like you rolled the fish in sugar. if your fish dont look like that, i dont think its ick. you mention white feces, that usually means parasites. you mentioned you recently restocked the tank? if i understand that right, it would have triggered a mini cycle, i.e. causing the ammonia to jump and nitrites.. the bacterial load was too high and its compensating by creating a cycle. also, restocking or moving fish causes stress=vulnerability to disease.

I do NOT believe this is ick, and i wouldn't raise the temp (just fyi-to treat ick just raise the temp and use aquarium salt-dont ever waste money on ick meds) and add metronidazole (commonly called Flagyl). it is used to kill parasites, and is pretty common and cheap. add it in the food is the best way-as it works better if the fish ingests it than just floating in the water column. it will make your water blue green. ive found that metro works well.. but you do have to use it for the full time.

as a conditioner, you may want to start using Prime-its really the best out there that ive found. and since you do have ammonia-and any slight amount of ammonia is quite damaging to fish i would do a 50 percent waterchange before dosing with anti parasitic meds.

the gill movement and rapid breathing is due to stress and trying to compensate for the ammonia damage-and just being sick in general. the airstones dont really add O2 to the water per se, they just break up the surface area.

everyone on here has different advice as to what works for them-ive dealt with parasites and infections, so this is just what has worked for me. keep in mind that most meds used will kill the beneficial bacteria in the tank, so just be prepared if your parameters change..

right now, your number one priority should be addressing the ammonia problem-as it will kill your fish. and you do that thru waterchanges, then you worry about the disease.

I said i thought that it was that but no one made any feed back about it and just told me that my water quailty must be terrible and flamed me about being an ass. that was a very informative post and is exactly what i was looking for, i will start doing just that. Thank you very much Navygirl.

READ HER POST AND FOLLOW THE ADVICE SHE HAS GIVENYour water quality is the problem and needs to be delt with first

 

[IveGotTheBestTank]

READ HER POST AND FOLLOW THE ADVICE SHE HAS GIVENYour water quality is the problem and needs to be delt with first

i am going to exactly that.

 

[navygirl76]

anytime-get rid of that ammonia first.

Then when you buy metro just follow the directions. i got it cheap on ebay in tablet form and just crushed it and mixed it with whatever i could get the fish to eat. like chunks of shrimp (krill) or something kinda wet that the powder will stick to. i believe Seachem makes a liquid metro-but im not sure.. if you buy liquid, soak the food in it first.

i forget the dosage, but just follow directions because long term use of metro will lead to renal failure. just dont overdose them (some people have the mentality that more meds are better lol). if you dose for the first full treatment and dont see any normal poo- ALWAYS do a 50 percent waterchange before dosing again.

in the future if i were you, i would bump your regular waterchanges up to about 50 percent. i keep a few large tanks, and since they are so big i have to schedule them on different days because i run out of hot water.

 

[navygirl76]

man you two are fast posters! lol