navygirl76;3717433; said:
Thanks,
Ill try with the 50 percent WC's. Ill have a look on Ebay now. Again thank you very much for your time.
HELP ME PLEASE!!
- Thread starter IveGotTheBestTank
- Start date
Thanks,
Ill try with the 50 percent WC's. Ill have a look on Ebay now. Again thank you very much for your time.
TwistedPenguin;3716234; said:
IveGotTheBestTank;3716292; said:seriously..
yes of course its cycled, its not a new tank. its been setup for a good year at least now. I do weekly 1/4 water changes, restocked recently and most of the fish are newish but they went into my 4ft, for atleased a week after purchase, i had not noticed any odd behavior, all were healthy and showing no signs of anything bad. my param's are good no nitrate or ammonia spikes.... but there are still white poos.... please i am not a fish noob, i dont really know about the chemical side of things. On the internal bacteria box it says that the active ingredents are bronopol 523mgs, formaldehyde 1,000mgs and benzalkonium 250mgs, the other one just says it contains sodium chloride... gill movement is still more rapid than normal, nothing seems to be hanging around at the surface anymore, and there are still white poos. where can i get the chems that were metioned before.
IveGotTheBestTank;3717146; said:
See??? This is my point exactly. You came back with an attitude assuming your tank was cycled and come to find out it's NOT. Man, you're lucky anyone tried to help you at all.
OP- how are your fish doing? any gasping or stress noted? did your ammonia levels drop after the waterchange? hope all is going well for you..
navygirl76;3721429; said:
They are doing much better still need to buy meds though, i think i found the root of the problem, there was a bag of carbon that was getting a bit old, this is now replaced. did about a 50 percent change today. my friend lent me his UV sterilizer, im 100 percent sure of its perpose but he says its good for the water, thats all plumbed in
.Thanks for your help, ill try to keep you posted.
TwistedPenguin;3718910; said:
yea but some one did, and gave me helpful advice. You on the other hand did not and just assumed that id filled the tank up with tank up with tap water and chucked fish in it.
IveGotTheBestTank;3722977; said:
no he didn't assume that at all. and you obviously need to read a little on the nitrogen cycle. A non cycled tank dosent nessicarily mean a tank where you just chucked some fish in non cycled means you dont have the appropriate bacterial colonies to process the ammonia and nitrites produced by your fish by definition your tank was NON-cycled becuase it had a detectable ammonia and nitrite reading
heres some proper advice: whenever your ammonia is above 0 PPM and/or nitrite is above 0 PPM dont treat your fish for anything any symptoms are probabaly caused by the ammonia/nitrite. Do a water change. white or stringy poop dosent nessicarily mean internal parasites it means that the intestinal tract of the fish is irritated by something (in this case the water quality)
Why would old carbon cause any of the problems you reported? Plenty of folks leave carbon in past the month-long period where it's effective -- none have the problems you describe. At the very most, it will stop absorbing things from the water. There would be no negative effect to the system or the fish.
Again, I am only trying to get you to realize that there are some things that you can do, such as reading over the link I gave you earlier, that will promote your success as a fishkeeper. There are very basic things, such as the nitrogen cycle, and research on fish illness that you suspect you're dealing with, that would go a long way toward making this hobby easier for you.
Again, I am only trying to get you to realize that there are some things that you can do, such as reading over the link I gave you earlier, that will promote your success as a fishkeeper. There are very basic things, such as the nitrogen cycle, and research on fish illness that you suspect you're dealing with, that would go a long way toward making this hobby easier for you.
u should look into a bigger filter i had alot of my fish to poor water quality then i came here and found out about filtration and water quality i thought u just threw water and fish i know pretty ignorent but noew i know about it all and i would say alot of people here have very helpful imformatine
justonemoretank;3723018; said:
Im obviously wrong then, i thought that if you leave carbon in for too long it release's nitrate back in to the water. Thanks for the link, it was very imformative and helpful.
raymondk;3723040; said:
Bigger filter? Ive got an Fx5 and an Eheim on my 175 U.S. gallon tank? I think thats plentty of filteration? Again i could be wrong.
Out of all of the advice given in this thread - I would listen to justonemoretank, she knows her stuff.
I'm going to go look for some information... From what I know, the carbon CAN release all of the stuff it's collected back into the water, but it takes ridiculously high temps (like basically boiling, which would hurt the fish worse!). I know I've seen it here, but I'm going to try at least one real article for you to read, if I can. Either way, I doubt this is the problem at all.
As for whether you've got enough filtration, you have to remember that the longer the filter runs, the more crap builds up in it, so the flow is dramatically decreased. Make sure and replace any fine-grade filter pads (that's the mechanical part of your filtration) regularly. I don't even touch my bio unless it's completely gunked up, and then I give it a swish in old tank water.
Also, at least for FX5, the flow rate they give is actually the flow rate through the filter when there is NO media in it. LOL what the hell good is that? None. I have an FX5, but I hate it, and there are many more reasons why, one of them being that it clogs very easily. So, keep up on your filter maintenance to get the maximum flow through your filters.
For "enough" filtration, the general rule of thumb is anywhere from six to ten times the tank's volume per hour, depending on how heavily stocked the tank is, and what's in it. I usually figure six for most of the smaller characins (LOL not Pacu), livebearers, and MAYBE small cichlids, but cichlids eat a lot, so even that's a toss-up. For most of the fish kept on this site, ten times volume per hour should be standard. So, look at what you're keeping and go from there. If your fish eat a lot, they poop a lot, and so maximum filtration is necessary.
As for whether you've got enough filtration, you have to remember that the longer the filter runs, the more crap builds up in it, so the flow is dramatically decreased. Make sure and replace any fine-grade filter pads (that's the mechanical part of your filtration) regularly. I don't even touch my bio unless it's completely gunked up, and then I give it a swish in old tank water.
Also, at least for FX5, the flow rate they give is actually the flow rate through the filter when there is NO media in it. LOL what the hell good is that? None. I have an FX5, but I hate it, and there are many more reasons why, one of them being that it clogs very easily. So, keep up on your filter maintenance to get the maximum flow through your filters.
For "enough" filtration, the general rule of thumb is anywhere from six to ten times the tank's volume per hour, depending on how heavily stocked the tank is, and what's in it. I usually figure six for most of the smaller characins (LOL not Pacu), livebearers, and MAYBE small cichlids, but cichlids eat a lot, so even that's a toss-up. For most of the fish kept on this site, ten times volume per hour should be standard. So, look at what you're keeping and go from there. If your fish eat a lot, they poop a lot, and so maximum filtration is necessary.
